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Thread: Yet Another Roof Repair

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    Member Serious Bronco-Lover's Avatar
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    Default Yet Another Roof Repair

    Got brave enough to pull of the Duct Tape that has been on the roof for the last year, since I bought the truck. I have nice big holes on the sides and through the middle. I have house stuff to finish before I get on to permanently fixing the truck, but wanted to do something before spring rain hits. That is, if we get any rain this year. For now I have just pumped in some silicon calk to seal the cracks and holes. I will eventually grind off all the bondo and go the fiberglass fill route to bring it back up to spec.
    89 C350 7.3 Banks Turbo, E4, 4.10, and 16.5 x 33's

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    Default Re: Yet Another Roof Repair





    89 C350 7.3 Banks Turbo, E4, 4.10, and 16.5 x 33's

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    Default Re: Yet Another Roof Repair

    That is going to be a big project. Looks like the duct tape was holding up well.

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    Senior Member Sucked In kto17's Avatar
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    Default Re: Yet Another Roof Repair

    Just curious if anyone has filled between the ribs so water runs off instead of just sitting up there. I know the body twisting is more of a problem with casusing the paint and filler to fail. I was thinking more of welding a panel from outside rib to outside rib w/ spot welds on the inner ribs to make it strong. Just a thought, since I need to do the roof repair on mine also.
    Doug
    Alpharetta, GA
    1995 C350 4x4 7.5L
    1965 Buick Riviera 6.6L
    1961 Shasta 19' Deluxe Camper
    1948 Spartan Manor Tandem Camper Restoration

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    Default Re: Yet Another Roof Repair

    bob, one of the members here has a '93 I think that had one sheet formed over the whole roof. He bought it that way, so not sure what is under it, or if Centurion did it, or what. It seems that it held up very well.
    Filling in the ribs takes a lot of material. So putting a panel over the top of it is really the only way.
    We have a roof section out of a van we want to try and use on one. Weld it from the bronco horn all the way forward and mold it in.

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    Default Re: Yet Another Roof Repair

    The tape was holding really well. Some I could not pull up. I put my hand in some of the adhesive and my hand stuck. I pulled away to hard and it ripped some of the skin on my palm. The roof is bad, and the backside of the rear door posts are bad as well.

    I thought I saw someone that evened out the roof and leveled it out to the topper level. I remember thinking I didn't care for the look at the time. I like that raised hump back look, but may help prevent water from pooling.
    89 C350 7.3 Banks Turbo, E4, 4.10, and 16.5 x 33's

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    Senior Member Sucked In kto17's Avatar
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    Default Re: Yet Another Roof Repair

    Quote Originally Posted by Traveler View Post
    bob, one of the members here has a '93 I think that had one sheet formed over the whole roof. He bought it that way, so not sure what is under it, or if Centurion did it, or what. It seems that it held up very well.
    Filling in the ribs takes a lot of material. So putting a panel over the top of it is really the only way.
    We have a roof section out of a van we want to try and use on one. Weld it from the bronco horn all the way forward and mold it in.
    Eric, sounds like we are on the same page.

    I'm trying not to thread hijack here, but what seems to hold up best for the rain gutters? I heard from the FSB crowd to wire wheel them and fill with epoxy.
    Doug
    Alpharetta, GA
    1995 C350 4x4 7.5L
    1965 Buick Riviera 6.6L
    1961 Shasta 19' Deluxe Camper
    1948 Spartan Manor Tandem Camper Restoration

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    Senior Member Sucked In kto17's Avatar
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    Default Re: Yet Another Roof Repair

    Quote Originally Posted by Bronco-Lover View Post
    The tape was holding really well. Some I could not pull up. I put my hand in some of the adhesive and my hand stuck. I pulled away to hard and it ripped some of the skin on my palm. The roof is bad, and the backside of the rear door posts are bad as well.

    I thought I saw someone that evened out the roof and leveled it out to the topper level. I remember thinking I didn't care for the look at the time. I like that raised hump back look, but may help prevent water from pooling.
    My biggest fear is having the water get to the door posts like you described.

    I think you are thinking of the older (brick nose) bodystyle one that has a high roof from windsheild to bronco top. I think thats the "moon buggy" one that has the big windows in the rear. I was thinking just raising the roof to the top of the ribs that run front to back, about a 1/2-3/4".
    Doug
    Alpharetta, GA
    1995 C350 4x4 7.5L
    1965 Buick Riviera 6.6L
    1961 Shasta 19' Deluxe Camper
    1948 Spartan Manor Tandem Camper Restoration

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    Default Re: Yet Another Roof Repair

    Bob-95-psd has a different roof. It still has the ribs but it is as high as the bronco horn, there is not puddle area there.

    The rain gutters, that sounds about like what we have been doing. Clean all the old sealer out. Wire brush, I even use a cut off wheel to grind the rust out best you can.
    Then treat with a rust converter, paint it to seal it up.
    Then we fill it with seam sealer like the factory stuff and paint over it. We haven't had too much gutter trouble.

    The rear door posts get scary. On our white diesel it got down into the rockers and the floor is just gone there. It flaps in the wind when you shut the rear doors. That body will need a whole bronco section or get scrapped.
    So if you are seeing water in the door posts that needs to be sealed up no matter how you do it.

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    Default Re: Yet Another Roof Repair

    This is a shot of the rear door post at the time I bought it.

    Just over a year later the bubbling has spread and there is now a hole clear through about 1.5 to 2 inch vertically and half an inch across. Taped it for now with tan duct tape till I can pull the interior and try to get some inhibitor that I can spray in or pour in/let run down and coat any way I can. I have no welding experience and probably wont be able to pay to have it done either. What do you think about using the fiberglass filler in the door post? Could I run a band strap to help bridge the gap and provide some rigidity then fiber fill over it? I was thinking about that for the gaping holes in the roof as well.

    Technically that is the little bronco triangle behind the rear door. I know I have seen those replacement pannels and that would fix most of it and allow me to get in there and thoroughly coat the rest of the pillar...hmm, suppose those are welded on too...
    89 C350 7.3 Banks Turbo, E4, 4.10, and 16.5 x 33's

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    Default Re: Yet Another Roof Repair

    You know most people say, oh no you have to weld it. Really though for years people didn't have welders so don't worry about it.
    I would probably cover the holes with fiberglass matting and resin, then some tiger hair to rough it in, then body filler over the top to make it look nice.
    It might need touched up sooner than welding in new panels but it is cheap and easy and it will look great.

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    Junior Member New User Ben's Avatar
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    Default Re: Yet Another Roof Repair

    When you fiberglass go back 6 inches to cover up hole and add as needed then sand to your form

  13. #13
    Junior Member Curious
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    Default Re: Yet Another Roof Repair

    Has anyone tried coating the roof with bedliner? I would think that the bedliner would allow flex and not crack.

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