E4OD rebuild

[cmoses]

Thanks E4OD, I will check the one way clutch. I already came to the conclusion that the forward clutch drum had to be replaced....another 60 bucks, I dont really have the time to go scavenging for a donor trans, and who knows what the donor will have anyway. I will also check the castings as you suggest, my center support is a bushing, and my output shaft has a pilot bushing, strangely enough all the bushings look very good, in fact I was surprised at this damage, as I said the tranny was working. I assume from your comments, that you heavily recommend the "updates", any recommendations on a source for the entire update kit (center support, pump, output shaft), or is this something I piecemeal together.
One other question, does anyone have a schematic of the solenoid board? I know I can test this one, but I am curious on what the one or two active components on that assy do...probably kick-up the computer signal to give it the A$$ to drive the solenoids
cmoses

[Traveler]

Read really good things about this guy from a couple years back.
http://www.racerxusa.com/

When you said solenoid board, you mean like the ECM? Because inside the transmission is just on/ off solenoids.

[cmoses]

E4OD
There is a circuit board with what looks like 1 power transistor on it. In the picture its that little riveted in thingee with a gob of goo on it. I think the black thingee to it's left is the thermistor for temp measurements. All the other crap is diodes to protect the computer from spikes when you shut off the solenoids.

[Traveler]

Interesting, I am drawing a blank on that, I don't remember that at all.

I wonder if that is the timing circuit for the Torque convertor lock up.

[cmoses]

Now I hadn't considered the "lock up timing" as a function, I would have simply programmed that timing into the ECM...but now that you mention it, the only "timing" element on that PCB is the capacitor, which I guess I should also check while I got it apart. That is why I asked about the schematic, I haven't been able to find a sch on the web.
The markings are "Autotrans" and "E Tran", and "36949 ECE" google searches for all of those terms have led me to Lindsey Lohan, Chicken McNuggets, some porn, and just about everything EXCEPT the schematic for that control board.
cheers
cmoses

[E4OD.com]

Hi cmoses, I don't really know of anyone who has just upgrade kits as these parts are all Ford replacement parts. Ford made a Service Kit for the 89-94 case with Center Support & Center Shaft that uses the roller bearing in the Center Support. The 95 Case has different dimensions for the Center Support so 95 Center support can not be used in a 89-94 case.

Concerning the ECM on the solenoid pack. The resistance between each solenoid contacts should be 20-30 Ohms except for the EPC Solenoid which should be 4.0-6.5 Ohms. The EPC Solenoid is a variable position solenoid whereas other solenoids are ON/OFF. EPC Solenoid is the one off-set to one corner. Same end as connector.

The Black Capacitor is just used to hold current to balance line voltage fluctuations caused by solenoid operation. The gold component (Not sure could be a capacitor) The TOT sensor (red) is actually under the clear silicone. See image of ECM in this post as it will show traces better. You can test diodes by reversing meter leads for Flow/No flow on meter. TOT Sensor specs are below image. The power regulator appears to be for TOT. My guess is that they are dropping 12v to 5v so the TOT can feed back reference voltage - temperature reading to PCM.

The square black chip (on your ECM) is a switching transistor, it and the black capacitor are on the Torque Converter Lockup solenoid.

[E4OD.com]

In 2006 I stopped rebuilding transmission and was buying parts from TransmissionPartsPlus.com but, they no longer have stock new or used parts. Just transmissions & O.H. kits.

This place seems okay on prices for updates - might want to check them out.

http://transpartsdirect.com/model_se...d=88&x=34&y=17

[cmoses]

Thanks E4OD, nice pic of the PCB. Notice the electrical drawing ignores the power transistor, that's ok though, its pretty easy to trace out.
There is a subtle warning to be gleaned from all this, and that is; IF you replace a tranny on a 94 and earlier vehicle, or more specifically solenoid assy, with a 95 or later, you stand a much higher chance of toasting your ECM, because the tranny's solenoid pack will no longer have the snubber diodes, and upon shutoff, the solenoids will create a very nice spike which the ECM must now ingest. BTW I ordered the drum from tranpartsdirect, it should be here friday

My hat is off to both you and traveler for generously sharing your experience with us less experienced on this tranny.
Cheers
cmoses

[E4OD.com]

Glad on my end to help you any way I can. I am currently working on an updated version 2.0 of my E4OD Free Tips eBook and started on a more advanced rebuild manual that I will most likely sell real cheap in the next year so it can help fund 2 things: My retired way of simple life and allow me to work on the 4R100 version full time.

Found this place for used/new update parts: http://www.fordtransmissions.net/level.itml/icOid/243

Are you still interested in making some reasonably cost effective updates ? for example, do you have access to or know some one that can machine your forward pressure plate ? There is a trick from TransGo engineers where you can have a step cut 0.185" deep in to the forward pressure plate to allow an additional clutch - steel stack but, its only if your brother is not towing over 3,000 pounds. Simple things like replacing the plastic shudder valve in the pump and replace it with a metal design. As well as this mod:

Preventing front seal blow out. (TCI Suggested Mod)

Remove bushing and seal from pump body.

Note: Late 1993 and later pumps have a .020” ridge on the outside lip of bushing bore to keep pump bushing from walking toward the seal. Be sure to drive or press bushing from opposite side to prevent damage to the ridge and/or pump body. Use a 5/16” (.312”) drill bit to enlarge drain back hole located in outside bushing bore connecting with slot inside body being careful not to drill too deep.

The factory stakes the bushing from the outside however, we be lieve it should be staked from the inside. Cut two slots in pump as shown in illustration. Mark bushing where drain back hol
e is located. Cut a slot in bushing approximately .200” deep and .300” wide at this location. Use tape on inside of bushing if you are using a stone to cut the slot. Install bushing in pump (using thread locking compound) and stake bushing at the two slots you cut.

Note: Be sure to never stake bushing where there is a seam. Install an E4OD seal using thread locking compound.

Warning! Do not use a C6 seal.

Use of a brass bushing is best if it is certain that the torque converter has a hardened hub.

Another one from TransGo is to drill out the Forward supply feed, hone the I.D. of he Forward Ring Gear and enlarge a hole in lower VB Separator Plate:

This comes from TransGo to prevent the Forward Clutch Burn up that happen in your transmission.

There is a cup plug in the Forward Drum near the splines (clutch pack side) Drill this orifice plug cup out 0.031" to 0.040" and it will apply more lube to forward plantet / clutches.

Also, Hone out the Forward Ring Gear so there is a 0.005 - 0.007" clearance as checked with a feeler gauge.

And in this lover VB plate image enlarge indicated hole to 0.110" to 0.116"

[Traveler]

Awesome information, Thank you so much.

[E4OD.com]

Thanks - Traveler !!!

Another cost effective (& ASTG Recommended) upgrade for those E4OD's with only 2 O.D. clutches is to make it a 3 Clutch pack by replacing the original 0.490" O.D. Clutch backing plate with the thinner 0.320". This is an actual Ford Part.

O.D. 320" backing plate, Ford Part Number - F3TZ-7B066-A

[E4OD.com]

I am working on a matrix to include all update changes and interchangeability between years for each part in the E4OD. Then will expand to C-6 & 4R100 later. Let me know if this layout makes since and if you have thoughts to make it better; please do let me know.

Thanks, Bobby

Open this PDF to veiw E4OD example version detail.pdf

[cmoses]

OK, got in the new forward clutch drum, put it together using the same number of frictions, and steels as the other one...rats about 3/16" play, thats when I noticed the new drum's retaining ring groove was cut higher in the drum. Put in an additional steel and friction...now have play within spec.
Here is the old one, use the welding rod for relative size of the land above the groove:

And here is the new one....please read after picture

So my new drum did come with what looks like a couple of "double steels" which I believe would accomplish the same job of reducing the play. Is there a reason that I should use 3 frictions and two "double thick" steels vs an additional friction and steel?
thanks in advance

[E4OD.com]

That's Awesome - Additional clutches is always better ! As long as the clutch stack is correct and clearance is within specs, you are good to go.

Did the new drum only have the 1 snap ring groove ? (I have seen where people cut a 2nd groove in forward & direct drums so they can add 1 more clutch).

[E4OD.com]

cmoses, Does your trans currently only have 2 O.D. clutch. If so, you can get the .320" pressure plate and add that extra clutch in the O.D. clutch pack too as this is a Ford recommended update for heavy applications.

[cmoses]

E4OD:
1. The forward drum only had the 1 groove.
2. I might look for a .320" pressure plate for the OD, because there are only 2 frictions in this one. However...this one did go over 200K (if its the original) in a more abusive situation than we will subject it to (we know the previous owner...he's VERY rough on his vehicles...other brother), so I'm not real concerned, we drive like grandma by comparison.
thanks
cm

[cmoses]

E4OD:
1. The forward drum only had the 1 groove.
2. I might look for a .320" pressure plate for the OD, because there are only 2 frictions in this one. However...this one did go over 200K (if its the original) in a more abusive situation than we will subject it to (we know the previous owner...he's VERY rough on his vehicles...other brother), so I'm not real concerned, we drive like grandma by comparison.
thanks
cm

Allow me to correct my mistake in (2)...my intermediate clutch pack has two frictions....I havent got back out to the OD pack yet.
cmoses

[cmoses]

Got another question on the E4OD...center support. There are 3 bolts about the center area of the center support looking in from the front of the tranny, they appear in all photos of the center support, but nowhere does it mention removing them. As I was disassembling the tranny I removed them, and now I am at that point in the re-assembly, but I cannot for the life of me see what they hold or do...except add a little more weight. I'm gonna put them back in of course, but what do they do and what torque should they be at?
thanks in advance
cmoses

[Traveler]

8-12 ft /lbs

They feed fluid to the forward or direct clutch I believe

[cmoses]

Traveler:
No not the hollow ones, I am referring the 3 ~10mm bolts that are in center support itself. These bolts are visible in the photo you have where you remove the center support.
As I was disassembling the tranny I ASSUMED they were bolted to something behind the center support....but no, I think they just hold the steel snout that pokes out the backside of the Center support, so now I just want to put them back in...but no torque specs, no one seems to mention them, not ATSG, not ford, they are like the Watergate Tapes. I did find a cutaway that shows them in a ball bearing type support in the Update handbook. I put arrows pointing to them.
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