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Thread: E4OD rebuild

  1. #121
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    Default Re: E4OD rebuild

    Anything inside that shows wear. As in a clutch disk will not slide over it smoothly needs replaced.
    The pump shaft should turn with resistance.
    Just be patient putting the sealing rings on and installing them in the drum. The drum will compress the rings back down. Just don't cut them going in.

  2. #122
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    Default Re: E4OD rebuild

    nice pics and step by step....but

    when u took apart the pump and cleaned it and checked the pump gear

    whats the torque on putting the 2 halfs back together?


  3. #123
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    Default Re: E4OD rebuild

    That is a good question, I will have to look for my manual and see if it says.
    The important thing is that all the bolts are the same torque more than what the torque setting is.

  4. #124
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    Default Re: E4OD rebuild

    Hi Traveler,

    This thread of your E4OD rebuild is much better than what I did in my "E4OD Tips eBook" back in 2006 and thanks for plugging it in your thread. I am planning on updating this eBook (after 8 years - dang I am slow) in 2015 and I wanted to know if could use some of your Pictures as reference in my new eBook ? that will still be free as I don't have access to update parts. For the readers of your thread I would like to add that after removing the pump it is helpful to take a depth reading from the machine face of the Coast Clutch to the pump mating flange (pump gasket face) and to record this measurement for reference just before pump is reinstalled to make sure all internal components are seated properly. And that care should be taken when inserting pump to make sure teflon split rings on the pump snout slip in to the Coast Clutch easily so they are not pinched. Always install pump in a vertical position and it must slip in to the case with ease. Thanks, Bobby Cooper E4OD.com

  5. #125
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    Default Re: E4OD rebuild

    You are welcome to use the pictures and information found here.
    I really appreciated your E-book and like you just want to share information that may help someone else.

  6. #126
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    Default Re: E4OD rebuild

    That is Awesome and Thanks - Traveler !! Really helps me.

  7. #127
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    Default Re: E4OD rebuild

    I just uploaded the raw files and images for the E4OD Tips eBook. Here is the online link at my site myfsbo http://e4od.com/ebook/index.html/

  8. #128
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    Default Re: E4OD rebuild

    Any tips for pressing in the narrow bushing on the direct clutch drum? I messed up 3 of em trying to replace mine. It wasn't pretty when I finally got it in. But I have an issue with mine (no third gear, just comes to a screeching halt), so its coming out and I might as well go ahead and fix the bushing.

  9. #129
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    Default Re: E4OD rebuild

    Harbor freight has cheap bushing install sets, that is a good choice, otherwise I used a 3/4 drive socket, many of them, at least in my set have a shoulder, so flip it over, find one that fits the bushing and use it as a install tool.

    No third gear? Or feels like someone put the brakes on? If it feels like someone put the brakes on, then you have another clutch, like second gear not releasing.
    No third gear is probably a cut or torn seal.

  10. #130
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    Default Re: E4OD rebuild

    I had a bushing driver set but the bushing didn't want to go in straight. I will figure it out. Hopefully it was just a clutch that wasn't letting go. A seal would be an easier fix than if a sprag got put in backwards. That might have caused damage.
    It did feel like the brakes were on the whole time. I couldn't get the thing to move without hitting the gas even in 4 wheel low.

  11. #131
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    Default Re: E4OD rebuild

    Newbie here, Traveler you have created probably the finest thread on this subject that exists, and I thank you for it! However no good deed goes unpunished so here goes.
    My brother and I are rebuilding both the engine and tranny in his 94 F150, 300 I6. The engine is done and I am starting the tranny tonight with the help of your posts, and E40D's site. We have had some setbacks which have pushed us way over budget on the engine, and want to go into "cheapskate" mode. I should point out that the tranny was fine before this major drive train overhaul project, a little lazy on the shifts, but no slippin and no hangups.
    I already have the Master kit, but I definitely want to avoid buying a new torque converter. I have kept a shop rag over the snout on the converter, and it is inside a pretty clean and dry garage, so I am sure it has not been "contaminated". So can I just wash out the torque converter in my parts washer with new clean mineral spirits or what?
    Thanks in advance
    cmoses

  12. #132
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    Default Re: E4OD rebuild

    Does the torque convertor have a drain plug?

    You do not want to wash it in any kind of parts washer. If you can find an old school tranny shop they all used to have a machine to flush the convertor all by itself. Call around, hopefully you can find someone to do it, it will be the cheapest and safest route.

    Look into a shift kit to stop those lazy shifts. They make plenty of in expensive ones.

  13. #133
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    Default Re: E4OD rebuild

    Thanks Traveler, yes it has a plug, and i will look around for an "old school" tranny shop. Why did you ask about the plug, is there some different action for a plug, remember this thing is out on the bench right now. BTW I just stepped in from the garage where I am dis-assmbling, I have this thread open on my nook so I can look at the "dirty peectures" you posted.
    cmoses

  14. #134
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    Default Re: E4OD rebuild

    Traveler:
    You done such a nice job, so far everything is as you describe, I took some pictures of the check ball locations, there where nine just as you said, plus there were two little spring loaded thingees, one looks like a metering valve (yellow), one looks like a sock(green). here are the pictures, once again thanks a million for your fine documentation!




  15. #135
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    Default Re: E4OD rebuild

    Quote Originally Posted by cmoses View Post
    Newbie here, Traveler you have created probably the finest thread on this subject that exists, and I thank you for it! However no good deed goes unpunished so here goes.
    My brother and I are rebuilding both the engine and tranny in his 94 F150, 300 I6. The engine is done and I am starting the tranny tonight with the help of your posts, and E40D's site. We have had some setbacks which have pushed us way over budget on the engine, and want to go into "cheapskate" mode. I should point out that the tranny was fine before this major drive train overhaul project, a little lazy on the shifts, but no slippin and no hangups.
    I already have the Master kit, but I definitely want to avoid buying a new torque converter. I have kept a shop rag over the snout on the converter, and it is inside a pretty clean and dry garage, so I am sure it has not been "contaminated". So can I just wash out the torque converter in my parts washer with new clean mineral spirits or what?
    Thanks in advance
    cmoses
    Hi Cmoses, The small filter is for the intermediate accumulator regulator and the spring & pin assembly is the EPC blow off and it looks like an aftermarket item as stock its a 1/4" steel ball and spring.

    If you can't find a shop to property flush your converter, and there was no metal and very little debris in pan, I would just fill it up 2x with clean trans fluid and then drain it. Done this many times.

    Do you have an ASTG rebuild manual ? for your rebuild. A week ago I picked up a Ford Factory E4OD Service manual that has a lot more detailed information than my E4OD Free Tips eBook contains. Your welcome to ask questions here or my contact form on my E4OD website if you need any additional information or if others aren't around to answer your immediate questions.

    A few things I would like to pass on to you and others are:

    I always make two slide hammers with 8 MM x 1.25 bolts. I have used bar bell weights as the sliders but, if you can pry pump out as Traveler shows without putting too much pressure on the case; okay.

    I always take a depth measurement from the pump gasket face to the coast clutch machined area and use this measurement on reassembly to know all internal components are inserted properly.

    if your trans has a retaining ring and plate securing the old Band Servo that is under the valve body separator plate, both these items are NOT USED with the updated servo assembly;

    if you replace the snout gasket on the Center support you need to use Locktite (removable) on the 3 bolts when going back together; and

    when dropping in the pump in the case watch the teflon rings on the pump snout as they enter the coast clutch and make sure they do not pinch. Coat the pump snout rings and outer pump seal with fluid and the pump will almost slide in.

    I agree with you that Traveler's E4OD pics & write-up is the best one on the internet at this time.

    Hope this is helpful.

    Bobby
    E4OD.com

  16. #136
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    Default Re: E4OD rebuild

    Thanks E40D! Yes I have the ASTG book, its pretty good. My pump was actually pretty easy to get out, I put in the bolts, and while hunting around for a purchase to pry from (my bell-housing doesnt have a removable inspection pan), I just done sort of a wiggle-pull by hand on the bolts, it took about 15 to 20 seconds, but the thing waltzed right out.
    I sure wish i had that fancy rotunda tranny mount though, I'm kinda long in the tooth, and not big to start with, that E40D is a monster.
    cmoses

  17. #137
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    Default Re: E4OD rebuild

    Glad to hear you're already in to your E4OD. It is a monster size transmission. I once had my brother make a large metal 2" U-frame with 2 jack bolts and welded it to a Semi-wheel with the tire still on it. We cold this U-frame with an E4OD mounted on it around the shop and even lean it over to remove and reinstall the Direct Drum / Shell assembly as one as it just falls forward and the valve bodies, filter & pan - Remove / Reinstall.

    Do you have a camera ? I take pictures of the number of clutches & steels in each clutch pack just for reference as well as take pics of the orientation of valves / springs / clips in each valve port. When I rebuilt my brothers E4OD he asked me why I had extra clutch plates and I whipped out my camera and showed him why. I also take pics of any fried soft parts or bearing wear so I can have those down the road as old guys don't remember like they use too.

  18. #138
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    Default Re: E4OD rebuild

    Traveler:
    OK I am truly stumped. For reasons that are not clear to me the Forward clutch clylinder is attached to the Intermediate Brake drum assy and wont simply lift out of it. On disassembly it all came out as one assembly I think. So far everything has went exactly as your disassembly, but all this came out together so i just sat it on the workbench. is there some "trick" to separating these assemblies? Let me explore how to attach image and i'll send a picture
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  19. #139
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    Default Re: E4OD rebuild

    Traveler
    Consider this a "never mind" to my last post, I took an hour or so off, and when I came back to "fiddle " with it some more, the forward clutch cylinder lifted right out of the intermediate brake assy with NO effort at all. At first I was stumped..WTH, but upon closer inspection...cause is revealed....The Forward clutch cylinder's splines that interface with the frictions in the intermediate drum were all gnarled up. Additionally the frictions in the intermediate drum are snaggle-toothed...here are some pics I hope are good enough illustrate. It looks like a friction or two "spun" on the spline, I now consider myself damn lucky to have gotten it apart.
    cmoses
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  20. #140
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    Default Re: E4OD rebuild

    Hi CMOSES, I see a lot of Intermediate Brake (Direct) Drums that get scored really bad from the band being smoked and it goes metal-to-metal and 2nd gear stops working. Your Intermediate Brake Drum looks good at the band area but, are there any "chatter" marks on the inner race of the one way clutch which resides on the back side of your Intermediate Drum ? If so, look at the rollers for flat spots and the roller retainer for cracks.

    Not too many Forward Drums get cut by friction plates like that last friction ring (right side of splines) is cut on yours. I know you mentioned about going on the cheap but, that forward drum needs to be replaced. It might of been okay if it wasn't for that deep cut.

    You mentioned its a 94 vehicle but, has this trans ever been worked on before, where it may have been updated ? If its all original the rough casting numbers on case, extension housing, valve bodies will start with E9 and F4. If any start with F5 its been updated some. 94 is when Ford was putting some parts in that looked like updated versions, for example, they had a Center Shaft that was still machined to use a bushing in the center support but, they took off the pilot that fit in the output shaft bushing. So you could have a bushing in the center support and an orifice plug with a 0.060" hole in the output shaft. The durability update came when they put the roller bearing in the Center Support; in this example.

    If the center support has a bushing (not a ball bearing) and the output shaft has a busing in the end of the output shaft and the front pump rough casting starts with a E9 most likely no updates have been preformed.

    Enough with my babble. Hope it's helpful though.

    Bobby

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