+ Reply to Thread
Page 4 of 11 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 LastLast
Results 61 to 80 of 210

Thread: E4OD rebuild

  1. #61
    Junior Member New User
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Arvada, CO
    Posts
    5

    Default Re: E4OD rebuild

    Wow! this is a great thread on E4OD! Thanks for taking the time to make it.

    The E4OD in my F250 2WD is out of the vehicle, and I am going to do some basic maintenance. This tranny has 90,000 miles on it, and it had the fluid and filter changed at about 50K mi, right before I bought it. I am the second owner.

    A couple of years ago it dumped fluid out the bell-housing inspection plug while helping someone move house in the mountains of CO. After that day, it never leaked much until about a month ago when it dumped fluid out (mid-summer) in front of my house. So, I decided to take out the tranny and replace the seals/filter/fluid, and maybe have it flushed.

    So far, I have purchased a new pan gasket, a new filter, a new front seal, a new rear seal, and a new O-ring for behind the pump. No work done yet, and now I have a couple Q's after reading through your fine posts here. I hope you don't mind.

    I don't want to do a full rebuild, but wondered what I should do. Which seals to replace, and which bushings, if any. You talked about the front seal and bushing...sounds like you'd recommend changing at least the front bushing. Would you recommend changing any other bushings?

    Your post and pics didn't show anything about the rear seal, and I can't find anything about it in the tranny section of my shop manual. How do I remove the rear seal? We've tried pulling it (forcing it) while the tail section is still on the tranny. Doesn't seem to work well. Can you recommend a better method?

    I only use my truck for light duty around-town stuff. But it started spewing fluid on me while doing light driving, so this is why I am replacing seals and not doing a full rebuild. The fluid is darker red, but doesn't smell or look burnt

    From everything I have read, the problem with these (or any) trannys is heat. I do plan to add a tranny temp gauge and then an aftermarket tranny cooler (in addition to flushing the lines to the radiator). Another thought I had was to change the pan to a deep pan, like those on 4WD (mine is 2WD). That would let me add more fluid to the tranny for increased cooling. But now I wonder, is too much cooling a problem? Do you know if there is a minumum operating temperature?

    Lots of Q's, I know, but I am excited to get the new seals in and get it back to a working truck.

    Thanks for any.all of your replies!!!

    mikey.

  2. #62
    Junior Member New User
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Posts
    0

    Default Re: E4OD rebuild

    You should replace the seals and the friction plates in the transmission at a minimum.
    I would also do the front and rear bushings and seals. The seal in the tail housing comes out the back, they can stick from time to time. Just a hammer and chisel, get under the lip and drive it out.

    Temperature is bad but it is also good. It removes the moisture from the oil. You typically can't regulate the minimum temp. Don't worry about it, just change your fluid once a year. Especaily driving around town you cannot have too much cooling. Going to a 4wd pan is up to you. Sure more capacity is great but really you shouldn't need it.

    When you have the trans out you need to replace the torque converter or at least fins a shop that can flush it for you. Replace is better.
    Take and blow air pressure through the cooler and cooler lines to make sure they are clean and clear.

  3. #63
    Junior Member New User
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Arvada, CO
    Posts
    5

    Default Re: E4OD rebuild

    Quote Originally Posted by Traveler View Post
    You should replace the seals and the friction plates in the transmission at a minimum.
    I would also do the front and rear bushings and seals. The seal in the tail housing comes out the back, they can stick from time to time. Just a hammer and chisel, get under the lip and drive it out.


    When you have the trans out you need to replace the torque converter or at least find a shop that can flush it for you. Replace is better.
    Thanks!!
    I also notice the area around the tail-housing gasket showed signs of oil...I figure I would replace that gasket as well. Looks like I just remove the bolts and replace the gasket.

    I appreciate your help on this!
    mikey.

  4. #64
    Junior Member New User
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Arvada, CO
    Posts
    5

    Default Re: E4OD rebuild

    Hi.

    So far, I have replaced the rear seal, and the tail housing gasket. Now I am looking to install the new filter. But the gasket from the old filter is stuck hard in the inlet of the pump. I've been trying to pull out the old gasket, but it only come out in pieces, using tweezers. Man is this frustrating, because I suspect I do not want to get little pieces of the gasket (rubber) down into the pump area. I suspect if I turn the transmission upside down and work on it from underneath, the pieces will not fall into the pump.

    Any hints on removing this gasket?
    Attached Images  

  5. #65
    Junior Member New User
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Posts
    0

    Default Re: E4OD rebuild

    Turn it over like you said.
    Penetrating oil helps if it is dry.
    Then keep doing like you are doing. You can take it out a piece at a time or usually just a long screw driver and put the flat tip on top of the seal and pry a little to atleast break it loose.
    Don't be afraid to use a chisel either if you need to.

  6. #66
    Junior Member New User
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Arvada, CO
    Posts
    5

    Default Re: E4OD rebuild

    Thanks for the reply!

    The trouble I am finding is, the seal doesn't "break away". It is stuck to the metal housing, but it is also very pliable. It is as though the seal is bonded to the housing. And with it still flexible, prying on it doesn't do much but move the rubber around. I think I need something that will dissolve the rubber itself. Otherwise, using a tweezer will result in hundreds of remaining bumps of rubber in the housing.

    Here is a picture of what happens when I grab the rubber with tweezers and pull on it. The pink piece is a small piece of the rubber seal:
    (thanks again for your help)

    Name:  IMG_1287.jpg
Views: 1332
Size:  136.1 KB

  7. #67
    Junior Member New User
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Posts
    0

    Default Re: E4OD rebuild

    I can't remember if there is a steel sleeve in the rubber? I don't think there is, so what about using like a razor knife or something to cut it and scrape it out?
    You can always clean any scratches left in the housing up with a little emory cloth if they get that bad.
    At this point what about heat? Like a torch or a lighter, that should soften it.

  8. #68
    Junior Member New User
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Arvada, CO
    Posts
    5

    Default Re: E4OD rebuild

    Yeah, heat was my thought. Although I was afraid open flame might ignite the xmssion oil, so maybe a soldering iron or blow dryer...
    Scraping it out would still leave bits in the grooves (and I would need to remove them somehow) which is why I was hoping for a liquid that would eat it or soften it. Liquid goes into the grooves. There is not any metal backing associated with this gasket.

    Thanks again for your thoughts. It helps me to talk these things out.

    mikey.

  9. #69
    Junior Member Curious
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Central DE
    Posts
    29

    Default Re: E4OD rebuild

    Well, my E4OD troubles continue.

    Got the used transmission installed in the IDI crew cab and have put a couple hundred miles on it. Took the GF to dinner on Sat. and we stopped at her house for a few minutes on the way back. Let the truck idle while we were there and when we went to leave.......no forward gears, at all. Reverse works fine; D, 2, 1 nothing. Pulled codes and got 29, 56 and 99. Fluid looks fine. Batteries were dead this morning for some reason, though.

    So unless there is a simple solution to this, it may be time to, as Adrianspeeder says, throw money at it.

  10. #70
    Junior Member New User
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Posts
    0

    Default Re: E4OD rebuild

    99 is an electronic pressure control circuit failure.
    Could be bad solenoid or wiring to it.
    Not sure if it could drain the batteries though.

    The pressure solenoid controls all the forward gears but not in reverse, Reverse takes any pressure available.

    That is where I would start. Check your harness then drop the pan and ohm test the solenoid, or just replace it at that point.

  11. #71
    Junior Member Curious
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Central DE
    Posts
    29

    Default Re: E4OD rebuild

    Did some poking around under the truck today.

    Found the solenoid connector had some oil ( ATF?) in it. Cleaned that out and re-ran the KOEO test. Only code now is 29, Insufficient input from vehicle speed sensor.

    Also been doing more research. I've read where up to '95 there were diodes in the solenoid pack but they were moved to the PCM after that. This being a '94 truck with a '96 trans could mean I have no diodes at all. Not sure what that could mean.

    I found this page http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/949...4.htm#dsymp71a on diagnosis by symptom and under "No forward only" there are no electrical solutions, only mechanical ones.

    This is not looking good.

  12. #72
    Junior Member New User
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    nj
    Posts
    2

    Default Re: E4OD rebuild

    do you remeber how the intermediate clutch pack went. i know its the backing plate , friction steel, friction steel friction, then is it a steel then the apliy plate or just the apliy plate?
    im haveing a problem compressing the intermediate/od piston enough to get the big snap ring in. figure that might be the problem but if you have any other ideas please let me know. ive had it apart 5 times now and evey thing i in its right place.
    thank you.

  13. #73
    Junior Member New User
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Posts
    0

    Default Re: E4OD rebuild

    If you are trying to put the big snap ring in, the very last one.
    Do you still have the center support bolts out? If not that is your problem.
    As in the picture. They have to be out before you put the snap ring back in.

  14. #74
    Junior Member New User
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    nj
    Posts
    2

    Default Re: E4OD rebuild

    thanks. i figured it out. i had a steel then aply plate with was taking up to much room. i found this pic on google that helped. i couldnt realy see it your pics. you thred did help me alot though. trans is together just not in the truck yet since sandy brought the rain

  15. #75
    Senior Member Sucked In kto17's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Alpharetta, GA
    Posts
    353

    Default Re: E4OD rebuild

    How bad is it to let an E4OD sit out of a truck? Is there anything that should be done to store it? I have a lead on one that has been worked on and the build is changing direction and it is less than $500. Couldn't hurt to have an extra, right.

    Whats a core normally cost?
    Doug
    Alpharetta, GA
    1995 C350 4x4 7.5L
    1965 Buick Riviera 6.6L
    1961 Shasta 19' Deluxe Camper
    1948 Spartan Manor Tandem Camper Restoration

  16. #76
    Junior Member New User
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Posts
    0

    Default Re: E4OD rebuild

    If you are going to let it sit, moisture is the biggest killer. You want to fill is as full as you can, over full and as you can get it until it runs out someplace.
    seal up the input and tailshaft with a plastic bag and cooler lines.

    Value is hard to determine. $500 seems good for a used working trans. That is one item we always watch for, We picked one up a diesel for $75, and seen them up to $1,000. The internals are not much different than any other E4OD the bellhousing or case is the important part. Small block E4OD cases are all over the place. Big block or diesel are harder to find.

    In fact the build in this thread was for a '93 C150 gas. We used the case from this truck and the hard parts we needed came from that $75 diesel donor. Sad part is, we are going a different direction with that truck and all of these parts are probably going right back into the diesel case or find another cheap donor trans for hard parts.

  17. #77
    Senior Member Sucked In kto17's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Alpharetta, GA
    Posts
    353

    Default Re: E4OD rebuild

    Thank you! Great info here!
    Doug
    Alpharetta, GA
    1995 C350 4x4 7.5L
    1965 Buick Riviera 6.6L
    1961 Shasta 19' Deluxe Camper
    1948 Spartan Manor Tandem Camper Restoration

  18. #78
    Junior Member Curious
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Central DE
    Posts
    29

    Default Re: E4OD rebuild

    Thought I'd update things.

    Finally gave up and had it towed to the tranny shop. Diagnosis was a cracked center support.

    Rebuilt and back on the road now. All it took was $$$$$.

  19. #79
    Junior Member New User
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Camden, sc
    Posts
    2

    Default Re: E4OD rebuild

    I rebuilt my 97 e4od and did not get any responce. Pulled and started dissambly and found the Stator support (Pump thrust washer) melted (also melted parts in pan). Any idea what could cause this? Applied air pressure to all other areas and works great. I am going to finish tearing down again to clean and inspect all parts, than reassemble. Any help would be appreciated.

  20. #80
    Junior Member New User
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Posts
    0

    Default Re: E4OD rebuild

    That had to just be a quirk, Either you have, or had an oil passage blocked by maybe a gasket or old clutch material, or possibly one of the thrust washers was wrong and it did not have enough endplay to allow for oil clearances.
    Bummer. those are always very disheartening. That is a lot of work to do twice.

+ Reply to Thread

Similar Threads

  1. Rebuild or swap?
    By divemaster5734 in forum Tech write ups and Installs
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 01-16-2012, 11:36 AM
  2. 7.3 oil cooler rebuild
    By Traveler in forum Tech write ups and Installs
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 03-29-2011, 03:15 AM
  3. Motor Rebuild
    By Chase Schule in forum Tech write ups and Installs
    Replies: 16
    Last Post: 08-09-2010, 11:38 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts