E4OD rebuild

[Traveler]

You can walk into a local tranny shop and they should be able to help you out. If they want to. Sometimes the locals don't want to help because they feel you are taking money out of their pocket.
Worth a call first though.

Online places, you see them on ebay from time to time, or I have contacted people selling e4od parts on ebay and told them what I wanted and they were happy to help.

After market companies. This guy is really good about helping out with the correct parts. He would have them.
http://racerxusa.com//all_prodcats.php
Other companies like BTS, or b&M who sells upgrade parts should be able to help you out as well.


It is a matter of what is easiest for you.

[tcbr1970]

Thank you so much for this thread, this will make life much easier for my husband when he goes to tackle this procedure on his truck next week, the video that came for the kit SUCKS.

[bob_95_psd]

Hey Eric,

How did the tranny turn out? We have not seen an update on that red 2wd for quite a while. Is it on the road?

[Traveler]

We drove it around it seems to be just fine. That project got held up and is now parked in the Barn until we get a couple other things done.
It still needs the interior put back in, brakes all the way around. Not really too much left. We just don't have time right now. We hope soon though. The trailer we had it on we had to use for hauling shingles and we just about have that empty again.

[kamty]

To remove the coast clutch drum, do I have to remove the three 13mm bolts behind the seperator plates? I'm wanting to get to the overdrive sprag.

[Traveler]

To get the coast clutch drum out, no you do not have to remove those bolts.
It most likely has some damage and is just stuck.

[kamty]

Thank you. That's what I was wondering.

Thank you for this awesome write-up.

Aaron

[c350_beast]

In order to test the pump pressure, what type of threads, special fittings to connect the gauge to the tranny?

[Traveler]

Standard 1/8th in national pipe thread.

[Husk]

Hi, I just rebuild E4OD, on 95 f250 7.3 diesel, it was slipping in 2nd gear
did pretty much the same thing that you in your post (except bushings, never touched them)
But now it won't go to 3rd gear, reverse, 1st, and 2nd works fine, but no go to 3rd.
Any ideas what could I have done wrong?
or if you can tell me which clutch packs or band applies in 3rd gear.
thank you

[Traveler]

Did you air test the clutch packs?
The forward clutch is engaged in all gears, so if 1 and 2 are working that should be fine.
3 and 4 have their own.
Next thought is a missing or misplaced check ball.

If left in drive will it move? and just go into neutral when you hit 3rd gear? Or not shift out of second?
Or will it only move when you pull the shifter into 1st gear?


Do you have any way to pull codes on the transmission?

Make sure you do not have any damaged wires in the wire harness or connector to the transmission.

It could be a bad solenoid. You can resistance test those. With the solenoids removed you can activate them with 12 volts, move the little check ball and make sure they are not stuck. Then do a resistance check.
Transmission Solenoids and Sensors Resistance Tests
EPC Solenoid
> Set ohmmeter to 100-200 ohm range.
> Connect negative lead of ohmmeter to the electronic pressure control (EPC) jack.
> Connect positive lead of ohmmeter to the vehicle power (VPWR) jack.
> Record resistance.
> Refer to the following charts for values.

If out of specification, refer to «Pinpoint Test E» in this Section.

Shift Solenoid 1, Shift Solenoid 2, Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, Coast Clutch Solenoid
> Set ohmmeter to 100-200 ohm range.
> Connect positive lead of ohmmeter to the appropriate vehicle power (VPWR) jack for the solenoid being tested.
> Connect negative lead of the ohmmeter to the appropriate solenoid (shift solenoid 1 [SS1], shift solenoid 2 [SS2], torque converter solenoid [TCC], coast clutch solenoid [CCC]) jack and record resistance.

Refer to following charts for values.

If out of specification, refer to «Pinpoint Test A» (Shift Solenoid 1, Shift Solenoid 2); «Pinpoint Test C» (Torque Converter Solenoid), Pinpoint Test G (Coast Clutch Solenoid).

Transmission Application E4OD : Solenoid Resistance (Ohms)
Shift Solenoid 1 : 20-30
Shift Solenoid 2 : 20-30
Torque Converter Solenoid : 20-30
Coast Clutch Solenoid : 20-30
Electronic Pressure Control : 4.0-6.5

[Husk]

I can't get to truck till Monday, I'll pull codes and do all the testing
It moves if put in Drive, and it won't shift out of second gear
thank you for all your help and diagrams, it really helps

[BlackStar]

Hi. I have a 4r 100 problem. I replaced the forward drum )splines pulled out) Put it back together and now it won't shift into 2nd unless I jump on it then let off, when I accellerate it binds up. Reverse, D, 2, 1 all work. (manually. Do I have the inntermediate one way clutch in backwards? Thank You. Great Thread!!!!

[Traveler]

Revving up so far before shift is probably a solenoid or clogged passage but depending on binding that could be related to something else.

When you say binding. When do you first notice it? Will it do it every time?

[bob_95_psd]

Hey Eric or anybody else that can help,

I could use some of your experience. A while back I picked up a 1994 2dr Bronco with a bad tranny for a flip. I recently picked up a 1993 E4OD that seemed to work well with low miles to throw in it.

I got it in the Bronco but it does not work right. If you put it in drive if feels like it's taking off in 3rd or 4th gear pull the shifter down one notch and it feels like 2nd gear pull it down again into 1st and no change. It bangs into reverse really hard. When up shifting manully it bangs pretty hard. No kick down at all under any circumstance and no converter lockup. I can't tell if it's in OD or third gear when at highway speed. OD button on the shifter has no effect but the light does go on and off.

I'm not an automatic tranny guy at all but it seems like an electrical issue. I was not able to drive the truck with the original tranny other than reverse (no bang) but the PO told me it was fine till it started slipping. I did test drive the donor truck and the new tranny worked correctly in it.

The schematics and testing procedures above seem to be going in the right direction but being new to the process I need more detail and some of the basics. I'm comfortable with electronics and have the test equipment I just don't understand the procedure. I'm guessing a bad connection/wire or something not compatible between the 1993 tranny and the 1994 truck.

[Traveler]

first thought is the prndl or neutral safety switch is either bad or needs adjusted.
did you use the one from the new tyranny or old tranny?

beyond that let's assume the trans is good and it is something you did during the install or pre existing as in ecm problem. did it move with the old tranny?

next is checking the connections where they plug in on the pass side. bad or broken wires. broken or bent pins.

any way to check for tranny codes?

[bob_95_psd]

Did I mention that I don't know much about auto transmissions. What and where is the prndl or neutral safety switch.

I was just reading about how to pull codes. It looks like it's the same process to get engine codes. I should be able to get a loaner tool from O'rielys tomorrow to check the codes.

With the old tranny it moved fine in reverse but you had to rev the crap out of it to move at all in forward.

[Traveler]

the prndl switch or park, reverse,neutral,drive,low or neutral safety switch or who knows what else they call it.
It is where the linkage connects on the driver's side of the trans. It has slotted holes for adjustment.
It is what tells the computer what gear you are in, or if it is okay to start verifying it is in park or neutral.
That could be one thing to try, see if it will crank in any other gear but park or neutral. If the engine turns over in any other position that switch is either bad or needs adjusted.
There is a proper procedure I don't have time to search it right now, but you are supposed to use an DVOM to determine the proper adjustment of that switch. I always just moved them till it worked if it didn't.

[bob_95_psd]

Gotch ya.

I left the one from the new tranny on it. The truck only starts in Park and Neutral.

From the reading I've been doing it may be in "limp mode". Still reading about possible causes. Everyone talks about checking for power to the tranny but nobody tells you where that is done. I'm missing some basic info that most poster assume people already know.

[Traveler]

That is a good bet. That is the next place i would go. The earlier posted diagram, pin one, red wire in plug on passenger side of tranny.
Check with key on, if no voltage pull it into drive and test again.
Most people don't know they just spew what they read somewhere else.