Yes changed solenoid pack as well still same results
Yes changed solenoid pack as well still same results
Is the transmission you had rebuilt the one that came out of the truck?
Then how did it act before you took it out?
Traveler, thanks for this write up. I'm having no 2-3 shift issues in my 96 bronco. I've removed the valve body (based on other suggestions on other forums) to check for stuck valves. Transmission is still in the truck, so I was trying to get everything off without having any check balls fall out. Things were going well until I ripped the separator plate gasket, requiring me to pull the solenoids so I can replace the whole gasket later. I was worried about a spring loaded ball coming out based on your picture on page 1. None ever did. I did notice there seemed to be a spring loaded ball pushing against the backside of the separator plate. Not sure if they made that hole smaller between 95 and 96 or not. To the best of my knowledge, this transmission has never been apart. bolts and spacers are holding the plate (and balls) in until I can inspect the valvebodies and get a new gasket.
Do you happen to know if the separator plate gaskets are available anywhere without the need to buy a whole rebuild kit?
I'm in SE Iowa, by the way.
If you have time to wait on the mail http://racerxusa.com/product_info.php?products_id=308
Otherwise Check you local transmission shops, most don't like dealing with just selling parts, but the better ones do because they know if they are nice you will be back.
Did it just stop shifting one day?
It quit after I went through some high water when we got all that rain last month. I initially assumed it was electrical. I changed the fluid and other than being a little dark, seemed water-free. I read various forum posts suggesting everything from the MLPS, TPS, alternator, and ECU. I swapped the MLPS with one from my 96 F-150, no change, tried a different alternator, no change, tested the TPS, it was good, opened the ECU, found no visible damage. I even tried driving around with the solenoids disconnected. Trans stayed in 2nd, no automatic shifting. A guy named mark on thedieselstop, who is/was a ford transmission engineer said that it should have shifted from 2nd to 4th, and that based on what I said concerning how it drove with the solenoids connected, in D, 2, and 1, and with them unhooked, the problem must be a stuck shift valve or another problem deeper inside. I thought I'd at least try inspecting the valve body. Was hoping to do it without losing any balls or ripping any gaskets. I guess since the solenoids are out, I can test them. If the valve body doesn't fix it, I may just get a different trans from a local guy that parted out a running driving F150 4x4. Sorry for the long post.
Nope that is good to know. It is one thing to take a transmission that you wore out and broke yourself, then rebuild it and a completely different thing to take someone else's none working transmission and try to fix it.
It turns out that one of my shift valves must have been stuck. I can't say which one specifically, though. I took the valve bodies off, and removed one valve at a time, checking that they sprang back on their own. I called up the ford dealer and got the separator plate gasket from them. The link you provided only said it was good to 95 and mine's a 96, so I thought I'd try the dealer. They told me it would be there Monday, for $13. When I got there, they said it didn't get picked up, come back tomorrow. So yesterday I went back and they just gave it to me free, for my trouble. During my test drive it went 1-2-3-4 as it should have. I just hope whatever caused the stuck condition doesn't return. Seems odd that it decided to get stuck after a trip through high water, when water didn't appear to get in.
I have 1990 e4od just had it rebuilt. Does the same problem has 1st and reverse works great in order to let it shift to 2nd you let off and it shifts but when you give it gas in second seems like it neutrals out any idea what it could be. Bought a new solenoid pack for the rebuild too
It has been so long now since I have been into this that it is hard for me to remember but the first place I would start is pull the pan and pressure check the clutches. Kind of sounds like a cut seal or something stuck in number 2.
Yeah going to take it back tomorrow kinda upsets me won't go into 3rd or od.
Could it be a sensor. I replaced mlps. I seen it has one in transfercase with a plastic gear on it not for sure what it does exactly. And vss in rear diff but the speedometer works so thinking one in rear diff is fine? It is the same problem I had before I had the trans rebuilt
I am not an expert and I suppose it could be a sensor, but I think it is the MLPS and the VSS are the only ones that can affect shifting. If it starts in park and neutral the mlps should be working correctly.
If the problem existed before I would tend to think there is a bad hard part that didn't get caught when it got rebuilt.
Well he will be getting it back Friday so we will no soon
I finally got back with the guy he said that the direct drum may have a hairline Crack in it so he pulled tranny out and tore it open again Said the drum was fine and had another set of clutches got burnt up during installation process so he is thinking the computer is locking up two shifts at once witch is why that clutch pack burnt up is anything like this possible
Any idea where these go? I suspect since it's 9 washers they might go on the pump? Also there are two green and two black small inner tube type seals. I haven't been able to find anything on them at all anywhere on the internet or in the manuals. So any thought's would be appreciated. I hate leftover parts. These all came in the bag with the new check balls don't know if this helps. They must serve some purpose.
Last edited by ioman; 12-26-2015 at 03:55 PM. Reason: Picture didnt work.(fixed)
Washers go on the pump.
The o-ring, maybe dip stick tube, transmission filter, and not sure.
These kits are very generic. There are differences between years, 2 wheel drive, 4 wheel drive. Maybe the smaller ones go to the cooler lines.
hard to say, but if you didn't pull anything out like that, then don't worry about it.
I was wondering about a few E4Od problems after rebuild. My EPC in reverse is weak sometimes and causes a slip unless I unplug the solenoid connector. Maybe a sensor?
Also, in drive 1st or Manual 1, I get a drag that feels like the intermediate clutch or band sticking. In drive it is only a momentarily drag in 1st, then lets go.
In man 1 it seems i have to give it more pedal to move but not a lot. 2ND and 3rd and OD feel ok. I can feel the coast clutch in man 2 as well..
Any ideas? Thanks in advance
There is not much for sensors, first guess would be a check ball in the wrong place or a solenoid sticking. Maybe even some crossed wiring.
Did the transmission you rebuilt come out of that truck and did it work before? Or is it from a donor truck?