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Thread: E4OD rebuild

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  1. #1
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    Default E4OD rebuild

    I will keep adding to this as we get farther into it.
    It is important to know what was wrong with the transmission when you are about to rebuild it. Helps you focus on what needs the most detail.
    We tore down a tranny that was burnt up, we knew it would need lots of work. We were pretty anxious to see what was in it and what hard parts we needed to order so not a lot of tear down pics of the burnt tranny, but I will come back and add some later.
    When we started tearing it down you could tell the fluid was burnt really badly. The smell and color is a good indication.
    Once we pulled the pan, that is the second indication.
    This is after we had dumped all of the fluid out.

    What our parts tranny looked like



    We pulled the pump. The first thing we see is the overdrive clutches are burnt and melted together. We had to pry out the coast clutch drum which should fall out.

    Looking at the coast clutch drum it looks like the missing area in the teeth were machined in there and it would be easy to believe that they were. But that is not the case.
    When working with the unknown tranny you need to inspect everything. Every little detail.

    Before tear down, it is nice to have codes, but more importantly if you can hook up a pressure gauge to the case and test pump pressure. It can be difficult to see wear on the pump gears and visually determine if they are bad.
    Driver's side of the case, just above the pan is a test port for doing just that.




    It is a good idea after pulling the pan and valve body to use air pressure to test apply each clutch pack and see which one failed. This also needs to be done during reassembly to make sure you have not cut a seal and put it together correctly.


    I will come back and add to the trouble shooting later.


    The tear down. Yes this will be picture intense
    The color of the fluid is such a relief compared to the previous one we pulled apart.

    Next, pull the pan

    Pull the filter.


    We are just using the guts of this tranny, this one is a Diesel case and we will stuff the guts into are Gas case. All the internals are the same minus upgrades from model years.
    We still have to pull the valve bodies to get the guts out of it.
    The filter hold the pump in, but there are 3 bolts, 2 that hold the center support and another that holds the overdrive clutch. That is why we are pulling these valve bodies.

    Remove the top portion of the main control body.

    There are two plastic check balls behind it.


    Remove the accumulator body.

    Remove the main control body

    Remove the separator plate reinforcing plate.

    Pull the solenoid screen so you don't lose it.

    Pull the solenoid body. It can be pretty sticky where the connector passes through the case. Take your time and just keep working it. It will give up.

    Behind that is the one steel check ball. Grab that and put it someplace safe.

    Pull the separator plate.

    Now, after you pull the gasket down, if it didn't come with the plate, be careful, this is where the majority of the check balls are. Remove them and keep track of them.
    Your check balls can help you identify what year range your transmission came from.
    1989 had two models, early and late. Early was 14 check balls.
    Late 1989 had 10 rubber and 1 steel, total of 11
    1990-1995 had 9 rubber balls
    1996 and later has 8









    This is the spring underneath the steel check ball that fell out when we pull the solenoid body.


    Finally we have gotten to the 3 bolts we need to remove in order to pull the guts out of this thing.
    See the 3 bolts in the center, form a triangle, take a 13mm socket to remove.



    After pulling those I pull the tranny mount and tails housing off.

  2. #2
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    Default Re: E4OD rebuild

    Okay pull the tail housing off and get it out of the way.



    Pull the input shaft.


    Next the pump bolts.


    The front pump has two holes with threads in the pump.
    They are meant to install slide hammers to pull the pump.


    We went a different way. We installed vise grips, slid up against the bolt head.


    That gave us something to pry against.


    A few tugs and the pump is out.

  3. #3
    1995 5speed PSD Sucked In bob_95_psd's Avatar
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    Default Re: E4OD rebuild

    Does your rebulid kit come with good instructions. All those check balls would drive me crazy without a good reference document showing me where they all go.

    Can't wait to see more.

  4. #4
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    Default Re: E4OD rebuild

    Rebuild kits are horrible, usually no instructions and most of the time they don't have all the parts you need.
    We will be putting in a shift kit. That will cover most of it, but the ATSG manual is the one and probably most important tool. The Automatic Transmission Service Guide has all the info you need, broken down by model. Tolerances and trouble shooting steps.

    It isn't that hard. Just focus on one thing at a time, 1 ball, or one clutch pack, don't let the whole project overwhelm you.
    Like a remote starter, you pull it out of the box, see 40 wires and give up, Start going through one wire at a time and it is easy.

  5. #5
    1995 5speed PSD Sucked In bob_95_psd's Avatar
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    Default Re: E4OD rebuild

    Quote Originally Posted by Traveler View Post
    Rebuild kits are horrible, usually no instructions and most of the time they don't have all the parts you need.
    We will be putting in a shift kit. That will cover most of it, but the ATSG manual is the one and probably most important tool. The Automatic Transmission Service Guide has all the info you need, broken down by model. Tolerances and trouble shooting steps.

    It isn't that hard. Just focus on one thing at a time, 1 ball, or one clutch pack, don't let the whole project overwhelm you.
    Like a remote starter, you pull it out of the box, see 40 wires and give up, Start going through one wire at a time and it is easy.
    I'll take the forty wires any day...i have no fear of wires. Wrestling a huge/heavy transmission and transfer case out and back in only to find one little check ball lurking in the corner of the tool tray gives me nightmares and makes my back hurt just thinking about it.

    I'll check out that service guide.

  6. #6
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    Default Re: E4OD rebuild

    Okay, Pump is removed. The first thing you see is the coast clutch drum. It should pretty much fall out.


    Inside is the coast clutch friction and steels.
    The center piece is called the overdrive sun gear.

    That leaves this.


    Next pull the overdrive planetary and ring gear.


    Next pull the snap ring in the outer case.

    Pull the overdrive clutch pack out.


    Now this is where you are supposed to have a special tool. I have one, can't find it.
    Made this out of 1/4 x 1" strap.
    10 3/8" long. A hole in each end, drill and tap the center.


    You can get it with a tool like this and if you do trannys you will always use this tool so not a bad investment if you can find it when you need it.


    With out home made tool and a 2x4 that actually fit perfect, slightly compress the overdrive apply piston.


    I tried really hard to get a picture of this. But the 3 bolts we removed on the bottom, two of them holding the center support in place, the front one feeds the overdrive clutch. If you could see in there you will see by compressing the clutch the threads no longer line up with the hole. That is far enough to remove the snap ring without damage.



    Remove your tool and the overdrive apply piston.


    Now we remove the center support. This is one of the parts that is recomended to be upgraded.
    This design uses a bushing and the new design uses a bearing.


    With the center support there may be a lot of items that come with it, if not just pull them out next.
    The intermediate clutch, the band, The intermediate clutch drum, the direct clutch.


    Next we pull the forward clutch pack and drum out.


    Now the forward planetary assembly.


    Now the sun gear and sun gear shell


    Now pull the reverse clutch pack snap ring.


    remove the planetary gear retaining ring.


    Remove the rear planetary gear.


    Remove output shaft snap ring.


    Remove the tail shaft.


    Pull the reverse drum


    Pull the reverse clutch, frictions and steels.


    Pull the 5 bolts holding the overrun clutch race.


    It will just fall off and the low/revers piston return springs may just fall with it as the race is the retainer for them.



    Now we are going to shoot a little air in the oil supply port to the reverse apply clutch to remove it.


    Remove the apply piston


    You now have a case that is ready to be washed and cleaned up.
    Hopefully to help installation you have taken the time to stack things in order as they came out.
    This will help identify parts that look similar.


    We will be stuffing these parts into our SBF case. I will show you the different planetaries and so forth as we go back together.

  7. #7
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    Default Re: E4OD rebuild

    I know this is an old thread, but I am having an odd problem with my 1995 F150 with the E4OD transmission. The truck runs great and shifts fine, but every once in a while when you shift it into reverse it acts like the parking brake is on and won't move at all. It accepts the gear and is putting a load on it, but just won't move. I have talked to transmission shops around but all just want to rebuild it and go on. I don't think it needs a complete rebuild, but not totally for sure. When it does this I will shift into low 1 let it lurch forward a little and the same through the rest of the gears. I will then put it into reverse and it hesitates like a short bind and will work as normal. Could there be an o-ring or gasket broken up in there like between something in the valve body that is leaking pressure somewhere? Or have any of you heard of anything like this? Any help would be appreciated as google isn't bringing any results in.
    Thanks

  8. #8
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    Default Re: E4OD rebuild

    Oddly enough I have run into that. In my case it was a 1 way clutch failing. It could be a seal, or sticky clutch pack but in your case it still is internal.
    There is nothing external to the transmission that can fix or cause this. It has to come out and be torn down. You would probably be money ahead to try and find a used one someplace and put it in depending on how you use the truck and how much longer you expect to keep it.

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    Default Re: E4OD rebuild

    Not the answer that I was particularly looking for lol, but the one I was most expecting to hear. Thank you very much, I will begin searching for a good one as I just bought the truck for my son which turns 16 in a few months and he absolutely loves it.

  10. #10
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    Default Re: E4OD rebuild

    Yep. I believe there is a tsb on that and an updated snap ring

  11. #11
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    Default Re: E4OD rebuild

    Ok. So where should I get the snap ring from? Also where can I get a seal kit?

  12. #12
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    Default Re: E4OD rebuild

    Napa has seal kits. Order online for trans parts. That is about the only place to get them.
    Can't remember the website but racerx is really good.

  13. #13
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    Default Re: E4OD rebuild

    So I have a couple more questions. I went to replace the sealing rings on the forward drum and I had to break the old ones to get them off because of the wear on the shaft. The new sealing rings are a very tight. I'm afraid I'm going to break them. Do I need a new drum? Also the inside of the center support shaft that slides over the forward drum shows some wear. It's pretty rough on one side. Should I get a new one of them too?

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    Default Re: E4OD rebuild

    Also on the from pump. Should the shaft spin by hand?

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    Default Re: E4OD rebuild

    Anything inside that shows wear. As in a clutch disk will not slide over it smoothly needs replaced.
    The pump shaft should turn with resistance.
    Just be patient putting the sealing rings on and installing them in the drum. The drum will compress the rings back down. Just don't cut them going in.

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    Default Re: E4OD rebuild

    That is a good question, I will have to look for my manual and see if it says.
    The important thing is that all the bolts are the same torque more than what the torque setting is.

  17. #17
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    Default Re: E4OD rebuild

    Hi Traveler,

    This thread of your E4OD rebuild is much better than what I did in my "E4OD Tips eBook" back in 2006 and thanks for plugging it in your thread. I am planning on updating this eBook (after 8 years - dang I am slow) in 2015 and I wanted to know if could use some of your Pictures as reference in my new eBook ? that will still be free as I don't have access to update parts. For the readers of your thread I would like to add that after removing the pump it is helpful to take a depth reading from the machine face of the Coast Clutch to the pump mating flange (pump gasket face) and to record this measurement for reference just before pump is reinstalled to make sure all internal components are seated properly. And that care should be taken when inserting pump to make sure teflon split rings on the pump snout slip in to the Coast Clutch easily so they are not pinched. Always install pump in a vertical position and it must slip in to the case with ease. Thanks, Bobby Cooper E4OD.com

  18. #18
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    Default Re: E4OD rebuild

    You are welcome to use the pictures and information found here.
    I really appreciated your E-book and like you just want to share information that may help someone else.

  19. #19
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    Default Re: E4OD rebuild

    That is Awesome and Thanks - Traveler !! Really helps me.

  20. #20
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    Default Re: E4OD rebuild

    I just uploaded the raw files and images for the E4OD Tips eBook. Here is the online link at my site myfsbo http://e4od.com/ebook/index.html/

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