10.25 Sterling rear disc brake conversion

[Traveler]

This thread is locked, I want to keep it strictly installation instructions.

If you are researching the conversion, have comments, or questions, please post them HERE On the Four Door Bronco site, or OVER HERE On The Diesel Stop

There is already tons of good reading.

This installation uses Cadillac Calipers from a 1976 Eldorado. There are people working on conversions sticking with Ford parts and when they get done I will be happy to link that here.

I don't think this will work with 15" rims. I know it will fit 16" and bigger.

We will start with the parts you need to get.
I will list part numbers, and prices I found, not always the cheapest.

1) Two rotors for a 1996 E-350 460 CI/7.5L single rear wheel van. It will have a standard bolt pattern, and will slip over the hub. Napa part number #86799 priced at $79.99, total around $160

2) 2 Calipers right #16-4117 and left #16-4116 rear. 1976 to 1978 Cadillac Eldorado 500 CI V8. Price went up since I looked last $75 + $15 core, each. Total around $180 Oreilly's had the cheapest core charge.

3) Brake pads cheapest set $17

4) 2 Caliper bolt/pin kits O'reilly's #F76074S $21 total

5) Connections for the calipers, I got calipers out of the junk yard $50, and rebuilt them for $20. They came with a brass 90 degree fitting, for the connection I was able to use Steel brake line cost me $7. You will need rubber hoses, or fitting to do the same, What exactly you need, you will have to determine for your situation.

6) 6 - 1.5"x1/2" long bolts, you can reuse the lock nuts from the backing plates.

7) Brackets, here we go.
I have a paper template of the one I made, If you would like to build your own I will be happy to send you 3 files, you will have to print them, tape two of them together and verify that they printed at the correct scale, if you don't and just cut, they probably won't fit. Reach me at edeiber@gmail.com

You can download them yourself .HERE
There are 3 files about 1 meg each. You need all three. I say again, check the measurements after printing.
Microsoft Imaging will should display the file properly.

There will be plenty of copies floating around so do not try to make one from the pic below.
There are other people working on a CNC program, or other means of making the pattern available. I will post the info when it's done.

If you would like a set of plates already made, and pretty close to bolt on, (mine bolted on, but haven't done a second set yet) I have a source, or you can deal with him directly, right now it looks like cost will run $85 a pair. If you want a set, email me and I will give you the contact info. edeiber@gmail.com

As cheaper sets are available I will post the info here, or if you are building them let me know and I will add you to the source list.

With the main bracket there is a 3rd page that has the pattern for a Shim to give the proper spacing for the backing plate, if you don't want to make the shim, you can use washers.

The E-Brake clip is also on the second page, those dimensions are not fixed, any size piece laying around will do, depends on how you want it to look.

A) To make the brackets, You will need to pieces of 3/8" plate, 10"x9.5" You can use 5/16", but it will allow more flex, and will not hold as many threads on the Caliper mounting pin.
B) Print and re-check the measurements on your template.
c) Cut it out, and tape it to one of the plates.
D) Center punch the 5 holes on the + in the center of the hole.
E) Trace around the outside of the Paper template
F) Cut out your bracket, you will need a Plasma cutter, or a torch for 3/8" plate. Clean the cut as much as you want, but recheck it, must be pretty close to the template for this to bolt on.
G) Drill the 2 caliper pin holes to 25/64" Be careful to get them straight, If they are off the other end of the pin will not line up with the caliper.
H) Tap these two holes 7/16" X 20 Threads Per inch. or NF
I) Drill the 3 Flange mounting bolts. If there is a chance you might be off a Tad drill them to 9/16" or even 5/8" That will allow you to adjust it more later.
J) Weld the E-Brake clip on the back of the plate. Shown below as "This Dimension" the distance you pick for the first one can be off, but the second plate must be the same as the first or the E-brake will not hold both sides evenly.
That Dimension should be about 8.5" from the center of the lower caliper pin hole to the Closest side of the E-Brake clip. If the cable seems lose, or tight. I will show you how to adjust that later.
Weld the clip on at a 45 degree angle, I did not show this in the drawing. The reason for the angle, well look at you E-Brake cable it has a grommet on it, that grommet is molded at 45 degrees, by putting the clip on at that angle it will allow the grommet to sit flush against the clip.
Hold the 8.5" at the weld, and it will lean back towards the rear of the truck, or pointed towards the axle.

[Traveler]

Making the Shim, and E-brake clip.

I mentioned earlier you do not need a shim, you can use washers or some other means. Just remember the axle flange we are bolting to is welded on the side we are bolting , so the washers will have to be trimmed to lay flat.

We also need right at 1/4" of spacing. If the spacing gets off too far either direction the caliper will not slide properly and will wear out one pad before the other.

You will need 2- 6"x5.5"x1/4" thick plates.

Follow the same steps for cutting the shims.
Print a template, cut it out, center punch the holes, and cut away. Use the same size drill bit you used on the bracket.

After you get them cut out, laying them on the caliper bracket, you will see the radius of the arch is larger on the shim. That is because the weld on the back of the flange. I didn't use the same radius for the caliper bracket, because I wanted as much meat around the bolt holes as I could get.

Make sure the bolt holes line up on the shim, and caliper bracket.

The E-brake clip
You can use any size material. Shoudl be not more than 1/4" thick. It needs a 5/8" hole drilled in the center.
Now to accept the cable properly you need to egg shape the hole with the drill bit.
With the clip in the vise, or other clamping means, drill the hole, after the hole is drilled work the bit to at least a 45 degree angle.
It will fit tight, but the E-brake cable should fit, and the grommet should mount tight against the clip.

[Traveler]

There are two ways to do the assembly.

It would be ideal to leave the wheel end together, pull the drum, E-brake cable, brake line, and bolts for the backing plate. Then cut the backing plate off. Doing this will eliminate the need for seals, or adding oil to ?the rear end. That will depend on what means you have for cutting.

Or you can pull the wheel end off. I didn't see any advantage to it, unless your bolt holes on the caliper bracket don't line up, then it is easier to drill through.

Start with the easy stuff.
Jack up the back, put on jack stands if you have 'em.
Pull the tires.
Pull the brake drums.

[Traveler]

You can leave the brake shoes in place.

Grab the knob on the end of the E-brake cable with a vise grips, and push the arm forward. That will give you enough room to remove the cable from the actuator arm.

All your after is the E-Brake cable. If you reach in behind the front shoe with a pair on needle nose pliers, you can pinch the retaining clips, and remove the cable.

[Traveler]

Remove the backing plate.

I had to take my hub off to fit the plates, and it makes for better pictures.

The backing plate is held on with 4 bolts. Takes 2 3/4" wrenches to remove.

If you want to cut it, it's not worth anything. You can use a torch, plasma, cutoff tool, or sawzall.
It's a tight fit, but it can be done. Probably still be faster than pulling the wheel end.

In the pic the big arm on the left that starts at the top center pin is the one that the E-brake cable is attached to, so you can see it's easy to get at.

[Traveler]

Ready to start installation.

Below pictured all the parts you need, except the bolts are not in the picture.

I used steel line for my brake hoses, you will have a rubber line, or you can use the same, but you will need to get some type of adapter.

I welded my E-Brake clips on the backing after they where installed on the truck, you can do it before, or after.
The only advantage doing it after is you can position the clip so that you won't need to adjust the E-brake cable.
Of course if you don't have a welder at home you weld the clips on first.

[Traveler]

Grind a little on the Calipers.

In the circle below, look real close I ground one, and haven't done the other yet.

You don't need to grind much, but when I was pre fitting everything one side would touch the rotor in one spot every revolution.
By taking this little tip off it will prevent that.

The fit is that tight in order to get the pad to run on the rotor properly.

you can do it with a file, or bench grinder. Just take the tip off.

[Traveler]

Install all the parts.

From the outside of the truck, it goes axle flange, shim, then caliper plate.

Leave the three mounting bolts lose. If the caliper doesn't sit just right you can use the extra wiggle room in the bolt holes to adjust it.

Install the wheel end if you had removed it.

Install the rotor, use a couple lugs nuts to hold it in place.

Install the caliper, and brake pads. Tighten the pins down all the way.

[Traveler]

Check and adjust the fit.

If you have air, shoot air in the caliper to tighten it up on the rotor. That will center it, and square it up.

Spin the rotor, make sure only the brake pads are dragging, and as much of the brake pad is on the rotor as possible.

On my set one side fit the rotor perfectly, the other had just a hair that looked like it might be sticking out the back.
They can be moved by bending the pads a little, but I didn't figure it would really gain us anything.

When you have adjusted it as much as you can, finish tightening the three mounting bolts.

[Traveler]

Install the brake lines.

I got my calipers out of the Junk yard, and they had the little brass fitting the steel line goes into, on them already.

I was able to get a short steel line, and use a 3/16" compression fitting to splice the line in.

Not sure if they offer that piece at the parts store, or if you will have to get a rubber line and splice it in.

After you get the line on, refill the master cylinder and bleed the brakes.

If your master cylinder went dry you will probably have to do the front as well.

[Traveler]

Install the E-Brake cable.

You saw there is a lot of extra beef on the bracket, the last pic will give you a good idea of what you can eliminate.

Run the E-Brake cable through the clip, attach the cable end.

If the clips don't hold the cable in place you can use a hose clamp.

[Traveler]

Adjust the E-Brake cable.

If your cable is too tight and is pulling on the actuator arm of the caliper already, or if it is too lose and the pedal goes to the floor before it engages, then adjust it here.

On the single cable coming from the front there is a U-bolt. Losen the u-bolt and to give it more slack, or take it up, to adjust the E-brake travel.

[Traveler]

Bolt the wheels back on.

The rotor is thinner than the brake drum, if there is any corrosion on your hub the wheel will feel funny when you put it back on.

It actually goes on just a tad farther than before.

[Traveler]

Not to leave you Hanging, but I haven't driven the truck yet. I need to finish putting seals back in my D60.

I am comitted to making this work, I want my truck to stop on a dime, stop nose diving, and with less pedal travel than before.

I will keep updating as information becomes available.

[Traveler]

I have made a few test drives and couple short road trips.

The pedal feel is less than adequate. The pedal went at least 3/4 of the way to the floor. The truck stops good, but way too much pedal travel.

The first attempt I made to improve pedal travel was adding a 2 psi residule pressure valve. ?I think it helped, but not enough to recomend installing it on every application. Instead try to make the following adjustment first.

If you remove the master cylinder, behind it there is a push rod that operates the master cylinder. the proper way to adjust is measure the depth. The tip should be 0.020" from the bottom of the cup on the master cylinder.
Another way is to give it a turn or two out.
reinstall the master cylinder, don't bolt it down.
If the flange on the master cylinder fits flush up against the booster, remove the master cylinder again.
Give the screw a couple more turns out.
When you put the master cylinder on, and it will not fit flush up against the booster, you have gone far enough.
Slowly turn the screw back in, like 1/2 turn.
Retry the master cylinder fit, if it fits flush you are done, bolt it back on.
If it still does not fit flush turn the screw back in another 1/2 turn, and retry.
When you can fit the master cylinder back flush against the booster by hand you have properly adjusted the clearence.

This for me this made all the difference. The pedal travels about 1/2 way to the floor now. That is what it did before I started this conversion.
The truck feels safe and perfectly drivable.
No more nose dives, the rear abs works.

The E-brake holds the truck, but I expected it to lock up the tires when I hit it. I am going to come up with someway to improve the performance of the E-brake. Right now we basically need more cable travel to actuate the E-brake arm farther.

A couple bugs to work out, but we are getting there.

[Traveler]

E-brake cable adjustment. If needed this will double the travel of your cables.

If you do the conversion and your E-brake won't hold the truck, do this, or similar method to increase the travel.

There may be better setups, this was easy and reversible.
My rear brakes still will not lock up after doing this, but they will stop the truck quickly. I figure I have another problem unrelated to the pedal travel, such as pads, or binding.

The pedal goes 1/2 way to the floor, and is so hard you cannot push it any farther. So mine won't get any better when it comes to travel.

I bought two pulleys and a 2.5" U-bolt at Menards.
If you can tell from the picture there is vise grips center on the right side. ?
This is the bracket the cables coming from the back was attached to.
I installed the pulleys, doubled it over, and clamped it.
I now have that piece bolted to the mounting plate instead of vise grips.
The cable from the front is stretched very tight, it takes the slack out of the E-brake cables.
The levers on the calipers move on the first click of E-brake pedal movement.

[Traveler]

I finally got the new master cylinder installed.
The whole purpose was to decrease pedal travel. I was un-happy with the travel I had.
Before, I would hit the brake and it would travel 1/2 way to the floor, now with the new master cylinder, It stops at 1/4 way.
That is the best it's ever been.

If you are unhappy with your pedal travel, definately check the bore size on your master cylinder. Mine was 1 1/8inch.
I used one for a 1997 F350, with 1 1/4 inch bore.

I still have the creeping pedal, when I sit still with my foot on the brake the pedal will slowly fall. This should be corrected with the Zero loss brake booster.
I am going to live with it for a while. under normal driving conditions it never bothered me before, and I doubt unless your looking for it, it would bother you now.

[Traveler]

I put new brake pads on the front and rear.

That was the majority of my problem. It stops great. I am not sure I have enough guts to cram on the pedal as hard as I can.
The harder I push the faster it stops. I love it!

I used Napa's second line pads for the front, they are not the cheapest, but the next grade up, Saftey stop I think, they were $43.
Not a lot of options for the rear pads, I believe the cheaper the pad the better is stops. I went with Oreilly's brake best pads for $15. I am sure there are aftermarket companies that offer better grade pads for these calipers, like summit, or TSM. The normal parts stores don't carry many options for that old of a vehicle.

I am talking with another gentleman that is wrapping up his conversion, he is having problems with the E-brake pedal travel.
If you are using the pulley system to add cable travel, look for pulleys rated for minimum of 300lbs working capacity.

With the new pads on the rear those brakes are not getting as warm as the front does, like it did before, so that means they are not working as hard.
Some pads need a break in period, I will check it again in a couple weeks, also with the crappy front pads I had before the rear ones may have been working a lot harder than they need to now.
If the brake temps between the front and rear don't get any closer, I will probably gut the proportioning valve.

Just an update. I will keep adding info as it appears.