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lostSloth
08-29-2016, 12:20 PM
my rear window wont roll down unless I jump the motor directly from the battery, which gets old quick. lol. I want to eliminate the switches in the tailgate and only have the dashboard switch in play. I am pretty certain this bypass will work. but posting for thoughts.
I edited the wiring diagram from a Haynes manual.

unedited diagram
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normal thru using dashboard switch
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tailgate switches bypassed
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I will be doing two splices in the tailgate before the wires reach the keyed switch. then rewire the connector so it removes the switch that prevents the window from moving if the tailgate aint shut.
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I understand the purpose of that safety switch, but its not really necessary as long as you have the common sense to have to window in the appropriate position before shutting the tailgate. I do not plan on using the keyed switch with this tailgate. its pretty beat up and rusted. once I get a replacement tailgate I will probably have all the switches operational. but that's at least a year away and I want to use my window, lol.

Traveler
08-31-2016, 08:36 AM
Might try bypassing just the switch on the latch first, that is the one I seem to have most trouble with.

lostSloth
09-01-2016, 01:02 PM
got my splices done a couple days ago.
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it cuts out both switches in the tail gate.
only had ground on one wire, and didn't have power on either when using the dash switch.
after testing the dashboard switch, found that two of the wires were swapped(hot in and a wire going to the tailgate). corrected them but since I was on a lunch break I didn't have time to test the leads in the tailgate. after work, I hooked the tailgate window back to the dash switch. It didn't work and I no longer had access to a multimeter (I cant find mine, and I was using a work one).
now I got a radiator leak at the rubber boot above the overflow hose. why is there two openings for overflow? replaced that same boot about a year ago for the same reason.
anyway, brought my dashboard switch into work to test continuity through it. sure enough, down wasn't making contact with power. checked the prices on LMC and BroncoGraveyard, those are some expensive switches! I took it a part and luckily I was able to teak the contacts to allow proper continuity in all positions. still gotta connect the switch and test operation in series with the window motor. hopefully no more detours, lol.
I'm picking up a donor F-150 today a font clip conversion. hopefully I can get back to the switch soon. and give a positive update.

lostSloth
09-01-2016, 01:09 PM
traveler,
if I was keeping this tailgate I would. on my previous bronco I used the keyed switch quite often. I like the benefit of it. I did leave myself the option of putting it back inline in the future if it takes me too long to get a better tailgate. this will also let me test the continuity of the keyed switch without it a being deep in the tailgate (whenever I find where my multimeter is hiding).

lostSloth
09-07-2016, 08:31 AM
i got back after the bronco this weekend. installed my tweaked dash switch and it WOKRED great! for two cycles and then quit .... not as easy to repair with overheated contacts (from power being sent to ground for a while :BangHead: ) so now I have a two strand jumper sticking out my power and ground wires so I can touch them to the wires going tot he tailgate. works good that way till I can get to a pick-n-pull to get another dash switch. them thangs are expensive on the web!

since I was messing with the tailgate stuff, I decided to finish up a section a been debating on how to go about it. wheres what I had gotten done previously.
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here's what I got done this weekend. might just fill in the bottom of the tailgate with bondo instead of replacing. but still planning to replace down the road.
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this is just the tailgate shell. no metal accent (idk what its actually called)
kinda eliminated my option to reinstall the keyed window switch. but I think it looks pretty cool this way.