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View Full Version : New to us C350 4x4 7.3IDI to 7.3 Powerstroke conversion



IsaLandr
12-09-2014, 12:45 AM
Howdy, folks. We just acquired a 1991 C350 4x4 that originally had a 7.3IDI with overdrive automatic transmission, that's been converted over to a 7.3 Powerstroke and 5-speed manual transmission. I'll see if I can upload some pictures to a photo album soon-ish. We just got the truck home yesterday.

The 1991 wiring harness has mostly been removed and replaced with the 1994 harness, including swapping in the 1994 steering column. The engine will start by jumping the relay posts, but won't start from the keyswitch. It shuts off from the key just fine. Once it starts, sometimes it will start surging at idle and I have to shut it down. Seems to run okay otherwise, when it's not doing that. It's not yet driveable because the wiring conversion is incompleat. Everything appears to be present, it just needs to be hooked up and finished off.

That's where I'm running into trouble. I'm not sure where everything goes. I can't seem to figure out what's supposed to plug into the door harnesses to activate the power door locks and power windows. There are a couple bundles of wires in various places that have been cut and taped off. The neutral safety switch on the transmission has been bypassed. Oh, and the transfer case is out of adjustment, so it appears to be stuck in neutral.

I have the wiring diagrams for both 1991 and 1994 Bronco and F350 systems, but I'm having trouble figuring out where stuff goes. And I'd like to get the neutral safety switch working again. Some parts of the conversion are pretty rough, and will need to be improved on as time permits. I'm probably going to have to do some cutting and splicing to match parts of the newer 1994 harness to some of the old existing harness stuff, I'm not sure yet. And I definitely have to replace the missing plugs where they've been hacked off.

It's a nice truck overall, in pretty good condition, all things considered. Any suggestions or advice on getting everything put back together would be greatly welcomed. The sooner we get this thing back on the road, the happier we'll be. Thanks in advance.

Traveler
12-09-2014, 08:47 AM
That is a big project, that is awesome you got the truck and are going to finish it.
I look at doing conversion like that in modules. The windows, door locks, head lights. They are all independent from the engine controls. Think about it as you should be able to get those systems working without even having an engine in the truck.

Is the dash swapped out to the newer dash?

If it runs and shuts off with the key, then the crank position of the key switch is not wired to the correct place or is not powered. Without the diagram here it is tough to guess, but the starter and starter relay on the PS is the same as the IDI.
I would check the diagram for the ignition switch. See if it has 2 power wires running to it. Make sure there is power on both of them. Then make sure there is power coming out of it with the key in the crank position. Once you have verified that, then we need to follow it out and make sure it is connected to the starter solenoid. Is the solenoid bolted to the fender so it is grounded? In the crank position is there power on the switch wire at the solenoid? If so then you have a bad solenoid.

Surging is probably not related to electrical at all. I mean it could be, but not normally. So we can tackle that later.

The wiring is pretty bad from Centurion some of it is bronco and some of it is F350. You have to inventory the colors you have and match them up with the appropriate diagram.

hope that helps get you started. I love doing that stuff, wish you were closer.
Take your time, focus on one wire at a time.

IsaLandr
12-09-2014, 11:43 AM
Man I wish you were closer, too. I could use some hands on advice on getting this thing reassembled. It's a beast, for sure. It's going to be really nice once it's done. Getting there is the tough bit. Well, getting it home was tough too, with how large it is and how much it weighs. But it's home, the adventure has begun.

This is actually my missus' truck. We got it for her to replace her little Rav4x4 that I totalled (somebody pulled out in front of us and I just couldn't avoid them) in early November. We've always wanted one of these, this was our chance to get it. So why go half measures? Get a 1-ton 4x4. I won't own another gasser, and she won't own an automatic, neither of us will accept anything that isn't 4x4 with 4 doors. This meets all our requirements.

The entire steering column from the donor powerstroke truck has been swapped in, compleat. There's a great big plug that bolts to the bottom of the column with all the start and run and ACC and AUX wires plugged into it. That plug has a switching lever sticking out that goes into the column and hooks into the sliding mechanism operated by the keyswitch. All of that appears to be working and connected properly. I'm going to check for grounding and that the various wires are receiving power when they're supposed to be, that's coming up soon. As you said, I can work on that later. There are bigger fish to fry right now.

We may need to do some fab work to replace the cobbled together assembly the previous owner did, to install the '94 steering column and supports. I'm not liking how it was put together at all. It works, but... It doesn't look good. I'm not even positive the steering column is in the right place for when we put the dash assembly back in.

I need to get the windows up. This is Washington, where rain is a way of life. The second row doors are mechanical hand cranks, so those are no big deal. The front doors and of course the tailgate, on the other hand, are electric. All the power windows are down, and I have so far failed to get them up again. I haven't figured out how to get the inner door skins off so I can see what the wiring is doing inside the door. I could jumper the motors if I had to, to at least get the windows up.

There are complications, unfortunately. A fairly nice alarm system with remotes has been installed, and has subsequently been hacked apart. The power door locks aren't going to work unless/untill I get that alarm system functional. They're patched into the alarm control box directly. I'm not willing to do any more wiring cut and patch than I have to, so that part can wait till a professional can look it over and either take it out or re-install it properly. I may or may not also have a professional re-install the stereo and CB radio. That part *looks* fairly straightforward... if it is, I'll do it. If it's not as simple as it looks, I will leave it for somebody who knows what they're doing. Mainly we need this thing operating and driveable as soon as I can get it running reliably with the important bits functioning like they should.

And yeah, I noted that Centurion did some odd wiring stuff. For example, the wires going from the rear window switches to the tailgate do not match what's in the wiring diagram, not even a little bit. But I found where they pigtailed them into the stock wiring... right behind the left tail light housing. Once I found that and was able to map the wires, now I know which wire is supposed to do what. I spent last night studying the wiring diagrams and looking up wiring information to figure out how it works so I can temp wire it enough to get the rear glass up and down when I need to. I think I have it figured out now, so later today I will be cobbling together a temp switch layout. I need to hit a junkyard or something for some plug ends, too. The stock ones for the backs of some of these switches and other controls have been removed and replaced with plain wiring with blade connectors that go directly into the back of the switch. That's not going to work for me.

I suspect the transfer case is stuck in neutral, too. It starts, so I know the flywheel is good. The clutch appears to be working properly. But when I put the transmission in gear, it doesn't lock up to the engine. Nothing happens. Either something is very very wrong in the transmission, or very wrong in the transfer case, or... the transfer case is in neutral. I do not know which. That will be a very expensive repair if it's the transmission or transfer case. Sigh.

The headlights work, as well as the tail lights. The brake lights did work, but now do not. I suspect something wrong with the pedal switch. I will be tracing that down later. After I get the windows up. The starter solenoid is bolted to the right front inner fender, and appears wired correctly. jumping the two main studs on that will start the engine, if the key is on. So yeah, it's something between the key start position and the solenoid, or the solenoid is bad. I will be finding that out soon, after I've got the windows up.

The guy threw in some Eddie Bauer heated leather front seats, so those will go in eventually. And it has a full set of spare wheels. Lots of extras and goodies, really. The parts are there for three fuel tanks, plus all the original undercarriage skid plates. The conversion appears very solid. It will need a new headliner, or the old one glued back up. When we had it towed home, the wind through the open windows tore up the headliner something awful. But we have the headliner from the '94 donor truck, we can probably use that to replace the current one, and I think it's even the same colour.

There's lots to do, but as you said, one wire at a time. Overall it's not that difficult, but very time-consuming and frustrating. Between Centurion, Car Toys, and previous owners, that wiring is a mess. I have open-ended plugs all over that i have no idea where go, no matching other ends in sight. Me multimeter and I are getting very chummy.

Traveler
12-09-2014, 12:35 PM
Windows,
There is a fuse in the fuse panel labeled power windows. With the key on see if there is power there. If there is not, then jumper a hot wire to it and you should be able to run the windows up.

Rear window, Centurion usually added a 4 bay fuse panel under the dash by the E-brake where your left foot would be if you were sitting in the seat. There is not certain way to determine which one it is, but one of those is for the rear window. Same deal if there is power there with the key switch on the key switch in the tailgate should work, if there is not power jumper power to fuse and try the key switch in the tail gate.

Door locks, the control wire has to be cut and run through a relay in order to use a remote or alarm system. Most likely you just have to splice the door lock wires back together to make them work if they were cut from the box.

Transfer case, when they installed the engine and trans, could it have moved the lever position enough that it won't travel far enough to engage the transfer case? Like it is hitting the floor board and running our of travel? Does the lever move at all?
For that matter, when you try to put it into gear does it at least grind a little, meaning the the transmission is turning?

You should be able to get the windows working without pulling the door panels. If the fuse has power let me know and I will find a diagram and see if we can find the wires inside the cab that need powered.

IsaLandr
12-10-2014, 12:18 AM
I have not traced down the power to see whether or not the various circuits are getting power from the fusebox yet. That's on the to-do list. Today I spent scrounging around a local scrapyard looking for missing bits and bobs, things like specific plugs that were removed. I found replacement rear defroster controls and plug pigtail, a replacement tailgate window control plug, and a couple other little things. I also had to replace my digital multimeter, I dropped it a couple nights ago and broke the readout. Got a new multi-range voltage detector while I was at it. We'll see if that helps tracking down where there is or isn't power.

But the big score of the day is a whole airbox, compleat with air flow gauge and sensors. I've been kind of calling around and asking various people, trying to source an original so I didn't have to use an aftermarket one. Accidentally stumbled across one buried in the back of a truck where nobody knew it was there. Got it relatively cheap, so that's one of the big headaches sorted.

Tomorrow I get serious about the power windows. Make sure they are getting current, make sure they're wired correctly, the whole bit. I took some pictures in the wrecking yard of how it was done in various '89 through '96 trucks, so I at least have a basic guide of what ours should look like when it's finished. It helps to know which plugs should be there and what they should be connected to.

I'm thinking the transfer case lever is out of adjustment. The transfer case in the truck now is the original, I believe, rather than the one that came from the donor truck. Not positive about that. I don't know if the unit that mates with the automatic transmission is the same as for the manual transmission. I suspect the shift pattern guide plate on the side of the transfer case is in the wrong position. I'll check into that more fully once I have the windows up. The rain is coming in hard and fast now, so I really need to get those windows up.

As for the door locks... yeah, they spliced them into the relays operated by the control box for the alarm system. I can see where they did it. I don't want to cut that stuff out if I don't have to, but if I do, I'll do it with spade connectors or molex or something, so that it can be easily opened and the alarm connected back in. I don't want to make that job any more difficult than it absolutely has to be.

On that note, I will also have to dig into the wiring for the stereo and the CB radio. Those are tied into the electrical as well, and I have to sort them out so I know what I can and can't remove to get the basic stuff working. Eventually those will work properly, but it's not a priority right now. While I'm digging around, I'll see if I can figure out the door and overhead lights. Those don't work either.

One thing at a time. First, the tailgate window. Then, the front door windows. After that... transmission, transfer case, engine, getting the dash re-assembled, steering column re-installed, and everything operational. It's a long list but it's doable.

Thanks for the advice. I'll let you know how things go tomorrow and what I find out. Should be able to trace down the power and at least get power to where it needs to go.

68Mercury250Ranger
12-10-2014, 03:39 AM
1994 is a one year deal, as in old EEC4 electronics and not a very serviceable engine compared to even a 1995. in 1994 model year the 7.3 powerstroke was only available with a 5spd. even the fender emblem said turbo diesel and not powerstroke.

I have seen a few late 94s with an OBD plug under the dash , but most have the communications plug under the hood and very limited communications to the engine.

if you are going to make this thing run right you may want to switch to 95-97 wiring harness and computer, IDM etc.

make sure you are using the right wiring diagram for the DI turbo diesel not the idi . not sure what the 94 manuals showed . picking up a 94 Fseries trouble shooting manual on Friday, i'll see what I can find on your issue.

sorry can't give you any positive inspiration :oh:

IsaLandr
12-10-2014, 07:43 PM
On the OBD part, yes this one has that. I noticed that right off. And yes, it has the 5-speed manual, which is good, because we didn't want an automatic. I still don't know if there are mechanical issues with the drivetrain yet, I haven't gotten that far. Hopefully it's just a minor adjustment issue in the transfer case.

I suspect it's actually an early '95 rather than a '94, there are some oddities about it that seem to indicate '95 or later. Not positive about that, but it's what I think. For right now, whatever it is, it's kind of got to stay how it is and work as-is. I may revisit the wiring issues down the road a ways, we'll see. I'll be happy just to have it running properly.

Now, on a positive note, I've worked out some of the existing wiring issues. Nailed the rear window setup, got it patched back together so now we can put the window up and down at will. That's a load off, let me tell you. I will still have to route the wiring properly and all of that, but for now I've established that it works properly and that it can be used reliably.

Additionally, I have determined that for whatever reason, the front doors are not getting power from the fusebox, and that's why the windows don't work. I jumped power to the correct power wires, and the windows go up and down as they should. I'll have to sort that out maybe tomorrow. We'll see. In any case, the windows are up, and, like the tailgate, can be raised and lowered as need arises.

I think there's a short to ground somewhere in the wiring, though. I shocked myself touching the body while standing on a wet spot on the ground. Not sure what's going on with that, probably have to do some wire tracing to figure it out. One thing at a time.

Replaced the taillight bulbs and verified the turn signal mechanism is getting power and works. The right rear tail lights are non-functional, not sure why. Put two brand new bulbs in, and it still doesn't light up, Everything else does, though. So, something else I'll have to tackle as I go along. The door lights and overhead console lights don't work either. I'm sure it's a cut power wire somewhere. Judging by the rat's nest of wires in there, there's a lot of stuff disconnected.

Honestly, at this point, it really comes down to tracing down the jumble of remaining wires from the original Centurion and aftermarket Car Toys installations, eliminating the Car Toys stuff, and getting all the stock stuff functional. Then I'll add in the extra stuff one by one. I just want it to work like it's supposed to.

I'm working out how to re-install the tailgate defroster, too. I have no idea how that is supposed to be mounted in the dash. The new dash doesn't have places for either of the rear window switches. It's got a nice spot for the fuel selector, though. Which, since I have a choice of two additional fuel tanks I can install, it'll be fun to have switchable tanks.

Anyway, that's where I'm at right now. Getting the wires patched in one by one, getting the original systems functional. I guess eventually I'll have to tackle that rear climate control unit. It appears to be both a heater and an air conditioner? There's a fan control for the dash, but again, I don't have any idea where it's supposed to go.

Traveler
12-10-2014, 08:05 PM
Sounds like you are making progress that is great news.
The shocking you issue might be a lack of ground cable from the battery to the body.

Polarburg
12-10-2014, 10:10 PM
How about some pictures of what your dealing with ? I've done his swap on my 92 gas centurion to 95 power stroke diesel power

IsaLandr
12-11-2014, 02:30 PM
It's raining pretty heavily and we don't have a garage where the truck is now, so bear with me. I went out to try to take some pictures and the camera app on my phone decided it didn't want to work. Maybe it's too wet. I'll try it again after a phone reboot.

Any pointers you might have to offer, I would be delighted to hear. I've managed to get the brake lights working, all the running lights work, headlights... I've traced down the door light and speaker wiring. I'm almost ready to re-assemble the dash and steering column, I think. Mostly what's left to trace down can be down with everything put back together. I think.

Except the windshield wipers. Those don't work and I don't know why. The wiring in the truck doesn't seem to quite match the diagrams in the manual. Most of the colours match, but they don't do what the manual says they should. Or maybe I'm misunderstanding how it should work. Anyway, they don't work. This is Washington, where rain is a way of life. We need those to work.

I have determined that the key start position does work properly, and is delivering +12vdc to the wire that should go to the starter solenoid. I have also determined that the starter solenoid does work. If I jump +12vdc from the battery to the terminal where the wire from the key switch comes in, it will crank. But using the key switch, it will not. So there is a break somewhere in that wire. I think I'll just bypass it and install a new wire alongside it for now.

The engine runs, and seems to run well. When we first start it, it surges a bit, but if I depress the accelerator pedal for a few seconds, it'll settle down to a steady idle. Not sure what that's about or if it indicates a serious problem. Seems to run okay otherwise. Still need to address the driveline not engaging, also. I'm convinced it's in the transfer case.

Alternator doesn't seem to be putting out the correct voltage. Something else I'll have to tackle, I reckon. I'm keeping the two batteries on chargers for now. Don't want to run them down and ruin them.

Door locks. I don't understand how those function. I've removed the car alarm and patched the original wiring back together. Supplied +12vdc to the door system like it's supposed to have. Door locks still don't work. Not sure what's up with that. It's not urgent, just an annoyance.

IsaLandr
12-11-2014, 03:21 PM
How about some pictures of what your dealing with ? I've done his swap on my 92 gas centurion to 95 power stroke diesel power

I'm trying to upload some pictures, but it keeps telling me they're too large. I searched the forum, to try to find what the max file size is, but the FAQ just says that the upload window will tell me what my file types and sizes are. It doesn't, so I don't know.

Any suggestions or recommendations would be most welcome. I tried to create a photo album, and same problem. Files are too large, and I can't figure out what the max size is so I can resize and try again. This is very frustrating.

IsaLandr
12-11-2014, 03:44 PM
1519315192151941519515196Okay, here are some pictures. I think I got it worked out.

IsaLandr
12-11-2014, 03:45 PM
And some wiring shots:

1519715198151991520015201

Traveler
12-11-2014, 04:09 PM
Wiper motor could just be bad, have to jumper it directly to the battery to test it.

Door locks, now that you have power, everything runs through the driver's door switch. Need to pop it off the door panel, make sure it have power to it and power going through it when you push the button. They are also pretty old, if they have not ever been replaced they could very well be bad.

For the starting problem, do you have the neutral safety switch installed yet? Or at least jumpered across? that could be the break in the wiring you are looking for.

Does your T-case lever move forward and back? Up and down? They can freeze in the pivot point preventing you to move it into gear. You can disconnect the linkage and move it manually too, make sure it is in a gear. I can't remember does that one have a place for a 1/2" ratchet on the back to manually turn it?

The surging, if I remember right it has something to do with oil level in the high pressure reservoir, or IPR or oil quality, or even low oil level in the pan. Either way, not a big deal unless it never smooths out.

Alternator, tough call, could be it got zapped with all the screwing around too. If you pull it places like Advance and autozone bench test them for free, then you know how to approach it.



The board software is suppose to automatically re size the pictures, I will have to check into that. I can't remember the max size.

IsaLandr
12-11-2014, 04:24 PM
I don't know where the neutral safety switch is, but I need to find it and make sure it works. I was told it had been bypassed, but I suspect that's not true. I need to find it and ensure that it works. That's something I do not want to operate without. So that may very well be the problem with the key switch start issue. I will check on that later today if I have time. Thanks for the pointer.

Door locks... yeah. I suspect it's a power issue, but I really don't know for sure. I will need to open up the switches and see what's going on, I guess. Which comes down to opening up the doors, which I still don't know how to do. The door locks are a much lower priority, though. Getting the windows working was a HUGE step in the right direction, and a huge load off my mind. It's raining pretty heavily, and I really don't want any extra water damage or rust issues.

Wiper... I really hope it's not the motor. I'll see if I can direct jumper it later and see what happens. But if it's a wiring issue... I don't even know where to begin with that. That wiper control module is pretty complicated. Another trip to the scrapyard may be in order here. Sigh.

Okay, on the surging issue, if I mess with the little white button under the throttle pedal, the one it's supposed to push down when it's normally at idle, I can get it to smooth out. Not sure what's going on there. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. Once it smooths out, it runs pretty well. responds to the throttle properly, and so forth. Will have to tackle the surging issue later.

The transfer case lever moves between two positions. It will not go into the third or fourth positions. I suspect the guide plate is adjusted improperly. I will look at that in a bit as well. I need to sort out some of the electrical issues first. But it is currently in gear, so that's something. I suspect it is in 4 low, but I could be wrong. just have to crawl under there pretty soon and check things out.

If I can get the thing mobile and operating under its own power, I'll take it down and have the alternator tested. I could just take it out and have it tested... Which, if I'm going to have to replace or rebuild it anyway, it's gotta come out... I'd just rather be able to drive the whole truck in. Mainly I just want it running under its own power. We'll see. Going to have to address the alternator one way or another, though.

On a more urgent note, it appears that the instrument cluster does not work. When I plug it in, it shows mileage on the odometer, but none of the gauges work properly. I'm not sure what to make of that. The tach doesn't move at all. Fuel gauge is at E, temp gauge is at H, oil is at H, ammeter/voltmeter is at the top of its arc. I don't know what to make of that. The battery indicator comes on when I turn the ignition on, and then goes out when the engine starts, just like it should. Not sure what that means. The wait to start light works as it should, I assume that's the glow plug indicator? Anyone got any pointers on these issues?

natterre
12-11-2014, 04:48 PM
That is a great looking rig. I love the rims and the spare tire on the back. Also glad to hear you are making progress on the wiring.

IsaLandr
12-11-2014, 05:44 PM
Really hoping the wiper motor isn't bad. I suspect it's a simple wiring issue, though. The windscreen sprayer doesn't work, either. Turn signals work, hazard flashers work, and that's all on the column. I haven't hooked up the centre button area, so I don't know if cruise control or the horn work. I'm not even sure if it has a horn, I didn't see one. Have to look for that too, I guess.

I have not yet verified what all gets power when the key is on. A lot of stuff that should does, but not everything. I still have to figure out why not, and of course identify everything that should get power in various key switch positions. As far as I can tell, nothing gets power in the ACC position. Not sure what should, but I don't think anything does.

Ah, the door locks. Yeah, I suspect it's a power or ground issue. The switches could be bad, or the connections bad, or... there are a lot of things it could be. I'll have to track that down one lead at a time. It's not an immediate priority, since I removed the alarm system, the keyfobs don't work anyway, so power locks are kind of useless. I haven't checked if the rear doors are power locks too, I kinda doubt it. I have a four door harness, ready to go in, if I could get my hands on the power window and lock assemblies for the doors. I guess I'm going to have to open up the doors and see what's going on in there. Which leads to the whole problem that I still don't know how to get the inner skins off.

Key switch starting... Yep, it's the neutral safety switch. Which I can't find. I mean, I can see where there are two plugs down there, one on the transfer case, I assume for the 4x4 indicator in the dash, and one for the neutral safety switch. Neither plug has wires going to it. And I can't see where they might have gone underneath, either. I don't know where that stuff hooks into the stock harness, the plugs aren't in immediate view. Something else I'll have to sort out as we go along. For now I'm going to run a secondary wire from the keyswitch to the starter solenoid as a temporary solution till I find the neutral and 4x4 wires and get those hooked in.

How is the odometer worked out? There's no speedo cable, it's all electronic. So how does that all work? It's something I'm going to need working when the truck goes operational, so it would probably be a good idea to have it figured out before I button up the dash.

Speaking of the transfer case, I have verified that it is out of adjustment. I can put it in 4 low and neutral. 4 high and 2 high are not accessible. The guide plate for the selector lever lock is in the wrong position. 2 high on the guide plate is neutral on the lever, 4 high on the plate is 4 low on the lever. So I will have to do some adjusting under there to get the lever and the guide plate to agree with each other. I can take the selector lever off and bash it into 2 high for now just to get it driving, but I'll get that adjusted as soon as opportunity arises. Seems pretty simple to deal with, so I'm not going to panic about it.

On the surging, it only does it when starting. If I get under the dash and push the accelerator pedal down so I can get at that little white switch under there, I can push that and get it to smooth out. It takes some fiddling but usually it works. Sometimes it doesn't, and I have to shut it down and try again. I really need to sort that out. From what I can tell, it looks like it's some kind of idle set switch, that the pedal is supposed to depress when it's in the idle position, but it doesn't look like it's actually pushing it down. Maybe there's an adjustment I can do on that, I'll have to look at it. Runs pretty decently once it's through the surging issue, though. Turbo spins up and sounds great.

I'd like to get the thing driveable so we can just drive it into the auto parts place and have the alternator tested in the vehicle. But, if we're going to have to replace it, I'm gonna have to take it out anyway, so it may be better to just take it out and have it tested, and then go from there. I really hope the alternator isn't bad. Those things are expensive. Just have to wait and see.

Honestly, I think I've got most of the major issues preventing it from being driveable sorted out. I'm not happy with some of the temporary solutions, and as time progresses I'm going to sort out each and every issue back to stock and proper... but for now, we really need this thing operational.

On a more urgent note, the instrument cluster doesn't appear to be working. I plugged it in, started the truck, and... the various gauges don't work correctly. Odomoter comes on with a reading, and stays steady, but the tach doesn't read at all. Fuel goes to E, temp goes to H, oil pressure goes to H, ammeter/voltmeter goes to the top of its arc, and that's where they all stay. The battery indicator comes on with the key on, but as soon as the engine starts, it goes out, which I think is correct. The wait to start engine light works, comes on and then goes out, I'm pretty sure that's the glow plug indicator? Nothing else works properly. This is an issue and will need to be solved immediately.

There are several control box looking things in the dash assembly, that go to various plugs in the harness. They are not hooked up. Do they have anything to do with the instrument cluster? If so, I can remove them from the dash and plug them in to get everything working.

IsaLandr
12-11-2014, 05:55 PM
That is a great looking rig. I love the rims and the spare tire on the back. Also glad to hear you are making progress on the wiring.

Thank you. We've waited several years to find the right one. We had a different C350 diesel lined up a couple years ago, but it got sold out from under us. With patience and the unfortunate accident that cost us our previous vehicle, we were able to get this one.

It's a very nice machine. In good shape overall, with a lot of nice upgrades in some important areas. Paint is good, body is solid, suspension and running gear is solid, and of course the upgrade to a PowerStroke from the 7.3 IDI is a huge bonus. That ZF S5-42 transmission is a nice advantage, as well.

It came with a spare set of rims, which we will probably be looking to sell off here in a while. I think the missus likes the wheels that are on it now over the other set, so we have no need to keep them. I too like the rear spare carrier, I don't like having the spare inside with the gear and people. Has the roof racks, which is helpful. Not sure how I feel about those side step bar things, though. They're in a kind of awkward place to be really useful. They should have been installed a few inches further towards the backs of the doors. Oh well.

The wiring is a nightmare. It's turning out to be both simpler than I expected, and more complicated. Some things are looking to be very easy solutions. Other things, I'm not sure I'll ever figure out. There's stuff in there that I just can't figure out what it does. Or where the wires go. It's a mess. I'm taking out as much extra stuff as I possibly can, but the remainder is something of a puzzle. There are plugs in the harness that do not have matches in anything in the cab. I have no idea where they go. there are plugs in the original wiring that don't match anything in the new harness... so again, I have no idea where they go. It's frustrating.

On the other hand, the engine runs and the transmission is good. Everything is actually all there to compleat the job. There are even two heated leather Eddie Bauer all-electric captain's chairs for the front, instead of the original captain's chairs. It's going to be exceptionally nice when it's done... if I can get it there.

Traveler
12-11-2014, 06:19 PM
The neutral safety switch, you can bypass by making a jumper wire to go between the two terminals in the plug. That might save you over running a new wire across the engine compartment. I am not a manual guy so I have no idea where they plug in at, usually on bigger trucks it is on top of the transmission near the shift tower.

When you move the pedal it changes the high pressure pump pressure and that is why it smooths out, still nothing to worry about yet, but that is most like working fine and not electrical.

The dash, that is a little more complicated. The speedo gets readings off of a Speed sensor in the top of the rear end housing. From there it goes to the ecm and into the PSOM from there it runs the speedo. All of the gauges are run through the ecm for signal but I think they also get power from the fuse panel and keyswitch.
The wait to start is the glow plug light. That is run by the ECM so it sounds like the ECM is working just fine.
The psom is in the gauge cluster so the cluster has to be from a powerstroke diesel. Sounds like you are just missing the external power source to it.

Polarburg
12-11-2014, 10:37 PM
The truck looks great but that wiring is a mess, if it was me I would go to a junk yard and buy a complete wiring harness from a powerstroke truck ,the outer harness ( firewall side with power distribution box and engine harness) Get a powerstroke dash with all the wiring attached it plugs in at firewall when a dash is removed there is absolutely no need to take the wiring off of he dash ,it stays with dash and the plugs only need to be disconnected . From the pictures I don't see any powerstroke wiring? The ECM, idle validation switch ( gas pedal) and the instrument cluster wiring maybe I'm missing something here but I don't see how it can run . Are you sure this is a powerstoke rolling idle could be worn injectors but wih the wiring like that you should square that away first .

Polarburg
12-11-2014, 10:43 PM
My bad I see the idle validation switch now , almost looks like some wiring from boh harnesses were used

IsaLandr
12-11-2014, 10:54 PM
I could not find the neutral safety switch plug. I mean, I see the one on the transmission, but there are no plugs anywhere underneath that look like they should go to that. There is a plug on the transfer case as well, and same deal, no plugs in evidence that should connect to it. I do not know where either of those plugs in the harness are or should be, or even what they should look like. Any suggestions on where to look and what I'm looking for? I've already bypassed the neutral safety switch with a jumper from the key to the starter solenoid, but I can take that back out easily if we get the correct setup going. I'd like to get the 4x4 indicator working, too. Both of those really need to be functional.

On the accelerator pedal, when first starting the engine, sometimes moving it doesn't do any good at all. Sometimes it does. If I can get under there fast enough to push the pedal down and then press the white switch behind it, that usually takes care of the problem. I think maybe the part of the pedal that is supposed to activate that switch at idle isn't actually pressing it down. Going to have to look closer at that. Once I get the idle situation under control while starting it, it smooths out and runs fine. And of course that distinctive turbo whistle is SO comforting. I'm more than a little disturbed by the entirely electronic throttle control, but meh, if that's how it has to be, then that's how it has to be.

I don't know which box under the dash does what. There's a metal box mounted under the left side of the steering column mount, I think that's the engine control module, it has a whole bunch of pins in several rows and appears to be made of aluminum. It's nestled snugly in its own spot behind where the emergency brake would mount. Then there are two plastic boxes under the passenger side of the dash, I don't know what they are but the plug ends for them are there and just have to be hooked up. There's a third plastic box, it isn't mounted anywhere, I have it stored separately untill I figure out where it goes. Not sure what that one is, either.

I do believe the ECM is working properly. The engine runs fine. What do you mean, external power to the instruments? Is that what the missing 4-pin plug is supposed to do? Behind the cluster there is a small black connector with a bunch of tiny pins inside it, there are two larger plugs to the left and right with contacts on both sides of the plug, those three plugs are present in the harness... and then there is this fourth plug connection on the back of the cluster, all the way off to one edge, with four side contacts where a plug should go. There is no plug matching this spot in my harness. I do not know what should go there, or how I should hook it up. Is that the power plug for the instrument cluster?

As far as I know, the entire cluster and wiring harness and all of it is from a PowerStroke donor truck. A lot of stuff has been sort of manhandled and modified and stuff, so I'm having a little difficulty figuring out what's what on some things. But it does appear to be the correct harness and other bits and bobs. The previous owner robbed pretty much everything we would need to finish the conversion. Dash, instrument cluster, wiring harness, engine and transmission, it's all there. It just needs to be assembled.

Except for spots in the wiring harness where things have been cut off or altered, and I do not have any idea what was done or why. So what do I have to do to make the wiring harness work correctly and get the instruments going? Tell me about this external power source. Hopefully that's all it is, so I don't have to go find another instrument cluster.

Is there a temperature sensor or something that determines whether or not to turn on the glow plugs? Sometimes when it's warmer, or when the engine's been running a little while, when I go to start it, the wait to start light does not come on. I can't tell if it's supposed to do that or if something is wrong. It still starts without that light being on, so... I don't know if something is amiss.

The thing also has a block heater, and it works. So super cold morning starting won't be a problem. This is a good thing.

IsaLandr
12-11-2014, 11:07 PM
Also, if you look at the second and fifth pictures in the second picture post, you will see some blue metal bits sort of screwed into the driver doorjamb and welded into the back of the firewall. That's the original mounting for the steering column from the donor truck. The previous owner cut those parts out and then attached them into this one. Because the 1991 body does not have the correct mounts for the later steering column stuff.

Unfortunately, how those bits were mounted in isn't quite right. It puts the steering column out of whack with the dash. Either we cut the dash to make room for the column, or we adjust how the column is mounted so that it fits the dash. I'd rather fix the mounting than cut the dash. That's what I'm working on now. It's not going to be a simple procedure, but it will get done.

Basically I'm going to have to cut the threaded bolt holes out of the original mounting, cut holes for them in the right place in the current doorjamb, and then have them welded in. It's probably not going to be a very easy job. I'm going to go back to the wrecking yard and take some measurements to see exactly how it's supposed to be mounted in, and at what height, etc. Make sure I have it exactly right before we start cutting and welding.

The previous owner did not take careful measurements before doing the modification, and it shows, unfortunately. I'm not okay with that, and the truck isn't going to stay like this. I'm going to do it as close to right as I possibly can. it may not be perfect, but it's going to be a whole lot better than it was when we got it. And, everything should match up properly when we're done.

Unfortunately, I do not have the tools we need to do this job ourselves. So I'm going to have to either hire it out or find somebody locally who knows how to do it and will do it for us all friendly-like. Have to solve it somehow, anyway. I want this done right, good and solid.

IsaLandr
12-12-2014, 12:32 AM
The truck looks great but that wiring is a mess, if it was me I would go to a junk yard and buy a complete wiring harness from a powerstroke truck ,the outer harness ( firewall side with power distribution box and engine harness) Get a powerstroke dash with all the wiring attached it plugs in at firewall when a dash is removed there is absolutely no need to take the wiring off of he dash ,it stays with dash and the plugs only need to be disconnected . From the pictures I don't see any powerstroke wiring? The ECM, idle validation switch ( gas pedal) and the instrument cluster wiring maybe I'm missing something here but I don't see how it can run . Are you sure this is a powerstoke rolling idle could be worn injectors but wih the wiring like that you should square that away first .

It's a Powerstroke engine. That much is certain. It has the electronic engine controls, including the all-electronic throttle pedal setup. The entire engine is all electronic. There's an ECM tucked away where you can't see it in any of the pictures. I wish the guy who started this project had done as you suggest and taken the entire dash and wiring intact instead of tearing it all apart. I'm having a devil of a time trying to figure out how to route the wiring stuff back into the dash when I reconstruct it.

I'll see about getting a whole dash assembly from the local scrapyard. The truck I got the airbox from had a fairly compleat dash, I might be able to get that relatively cheaply. I'll have to check and see. Honestly, I think I'd rather do that anyway, because the current wiring harness is an absolute mess. And the donor truck dash has some broken mounting screw holes that I would rather not deal with. As it stands now, I can get it running, and I might even be able to make it driveable, but it will always be a mess. I'd much prefer something cleaner.

I can see the big main plug in the firewall where this whole mess plugs in, so I can see how it would be easy to assemble all this into the dash first and then just install that in one piece. If I can go that route, I will certainly try it. Thanks for the tip.

IsaLandr
12-12-2014, 12:34 AM
And, one more note for the night... I don't know if it's because of the current ambient temperature, or if it's because of something I messed up, but the wait to start light isn't coming on anymore. I suspect I screwed something up, but I'm not sure. It still starts, and fairly easily too. But that light isn't coming on. Is it supposed to?

Tomorrow I'll make some calls and see if I can obtain a whole dash assembly with wiring harness. That will simplify things greatly, I think. And would make my life a ton easier trying to get this thing put back together. Will keep you posted as to what I find out.

Traveler
12-12-2014, 09:01 AM
The harness for the neutral safety switch and transfer case I believe is the same harness that runs to the speed sensor on the rear end. it drops down below the master cylinder and runs back inside the frame rails with pig tails near their respective locations.

if it is starting don't worry about the glow plug light, it is 100% independent of the glow plug system, it is just a light turned on by the ECM. The bulb could be bad is all. The cycle time is controlled by temperature and battery voltage.

The ECM mounts inside by the E-brake, the IDM (a similar looking box) mounts on the driver's fender. Give us pics of the other boxes and maybe we can help you sort out what they are.

IsaLandr
12-12-2014, 10:28 AM
My bad I see the idle validation switch now , almost looks like some wiring from boh harnesses were used

That's because it was. The main harness from the dash is there, but some of the original stuff is still there as well. For whatever reason, the previous owner pulled the harness out of the dash assembly and plugged it into the various things. I'm not sure why he did that, now that I know it doesn't have to be. But most of the Centurion and Bronco specific stuff is also still there.

Actually, I'm pretty sure I do understand why he pulled the harness out of the dash... to test-fit things and make sure it all works before assembling it compleatly. There's a lot of stuff that needs to be tied into the stock harness from both the Bronco and Centurion things that a normal Powerstroke would not have. Plus the existing stuff from Car Toys that was installed would have to be patched in.

I still want to get a new dash assembly with wiring harness, but it's probably not a necessity at this time. I just think it's a good idea, and I'm going to check into it today at my favourite scrapyard.

Will a 4x2 truck have everything needed in the wiring harness to mount into a 4x4 without modification? I think the only Powerstroke truck with an intact dash and wiring harness in the yard is a 4x2. Will that work as-is, or will I have to do anything to it for the 4x4 indicator?

Polarburg
12-12-2014, 05:20 PM
If you find a good dash assembly you can also take the aluminum support bracket that supports the steering column on 92 up trucks fixing both of your issues a 2wd is the same As far as I know the only centurion wiring that I came Across is rear window switch , reAr heat/ ac fan switch rear window defroster switch all had to be wired to the dash I installed do you have the later model column ? Think I saw the multi function switch in. Pic if not you'll need to get that when you find dash as 91 were different

IsaLandr
12-12-2014, 06:01 PM
Okay, I have successfully obtained a new dashboard assembly with wiring harness. It's from a 1996 F350 Powerstroke truck. This was the most compleat in the scrapyard, at first glance everything appeared to be present. However, once I got it home and compared to the previous harness, I realize we are missing some plugs.

The first thing missing is one of the plugs from the wiper control assembly. That's no big deal, I already compared wiring and I can steal the missing plug from the other harness, no problem, and simply patch it in. I didn't realize that one was missing untill I got it home. Sigh. But it's an easy fix.

I saw two other small cable bundles with the plugs chopped off, I noticed that even before I removed the dash from the donor truck. I didn't know what they went to untill I got the thing home and compared... turns out they're for the throttle controls that attach to the accelerator pedal. So here are a couple pictures, maybe someone can help me figure out how to connect the plugs from the old harness onto the new harness.

The picture showing the two plugs is from the old harness. The picture with the cut wires is the new harness. Which wires go to what? The sooner I know what goes where, the sooner I can install this thing and be nearly done with the project.

Two of the wires in the three-wire plug are the same between the two sets, it's only the third wire that is different. I would think I could just attach the wires that are the same, and the one that's different to its equivalent different wire, and be done. Or is that wrong?

The two wire plug... I have no idea. On the new harness, the wires are much smaller and a totally different colour. Which wire matches which on the plug?

1520515204

Everything else appears present in the new harness. All the little boxes and connectors and things are all there, everything is plugged in. I still need to pick up some of the little wires that plug into the other ends of various plugs inside the engine compartment, there are probably half a dozen plugs in there with nothing attached. I'm sure at least two of them are for the neutral safety switch and 4x4 indicator in the dash. Not sure what the rest are.

IsaLandr
12-12-2014, 06:14 PM
If you find a good dash assembly you can also take the aluminum support bracket that supports the steering column on 92 up trucks fixing both of your issues a 2wd is the same As far as I know the only centurion wiring that I came Across is rear window switch , reAr heat/ ac fan switch rear window defroster switch all had to be wired to the dash I installed do you have the later model column ? Think I saw the multi function switch in. Pic if not you'll need to get that when you find dash as 91 were different

I have the later aluminum steering column support, yes. I will have to do some fabrication work to mount it in, unfortunately, it doesn't just bolt in. I wish it did. However, I do have it, and that's on my to-do list. Part of the mounting work has been done already, the bracket it bolts to at the back of the firewall has been welded in, which helps a lot. Where it attaches to the side of the door jamb still needs to be done. And then of course getting it centred properly for the dash assembly.

Got the new dash assembly today, with nearly compleat wiring harness. See my other recent post about that. I have to say, comparing the two, they are nearly identical. The original donor truck may have been a late 1994, but I don't see any major differences between that one and the 1996 setup I just brought home. There are some minor wiring colour code differences, and a couple different gauges used in different places, but all the plugs appear to match up the same. And now I know where everything goes. I can put it all in at once and be done with it once and for all.

Then it's just a matter of getting that steering column support installed properly. That's going to be the most difficult part of this whole project, I think. I don't have the tools or expertise myself to do it right, and I don't know anyone locally who does, either. So... I haven't decided how I'm going to tackle it yet. We'll see when we get to that point, I reckon. I think I do like the new setup better than the old setup, but it sure is a lot more difficult to install.

I'm still sorting out the Centurion-specific wiring, and the Car Toys wiring, and some other stuff that's been done. It's quite a complicated mess. I have to get the power windows fully functional again, as well as the power door locks. And hook the heated all-power leather seats up. There's a compressor in the back for the rear airbags, with controls that go under the centre of the dash. There's a CB in the overhead console. There are two sets of overhead lights. There's a really nice aftermarket stereo system. There's a nice alarm system. There's the rear defroster and rear window controls. There's the rear climate control. And there's the centre console between the seats. Plus whatever still needs doing from the stock wiring which still needs attention. It all needs to be working properly when I'm done.

IsaLandr
12-12-2014, 06:16 PM
If you find a good dash assembly you can also take the aluminum support bracket that supports the steering column on 92 up trucks fixing both of your issues a 2wd is the same As far as I know the only centurion wiring that I came Across is rear window switch , reAr heat/ ac fan switch rear window defroster switch all had to be wired to the dash I installed do you have the later model column ? Think I saw the multi function switch in. Pic if not you'll need to get that when you find dash as 91 were different

Also, very nice truck you have there. I want to get one of those sun visors with the marker lights like yours. It's a 350, it should have had those lights by default anyway. Well, that's on my to-do list too. We'll get there.

IsaLandr
12-12-2014, 07:18 PM
One more update/question... What's different between the 1994 and 1996 wiring harness firewall plugs? What changes if any will I have to make, to use the new dash harness with the existing engine harness?

I'm comparing the firewall plug our truck came with and the one in the dash assembly I just got... They are mostly the same, but there are a couple of differences. Not all the same holes are used, and not all the wiring colours match. Looks like most of the major stuff is identical, but there is some stuff that's different.

What are those differences, and are they going to negatively affect my ability to simply plug the new harness in and go?

IsaLandr
12-14-2014, 06:44 PM
If you find a good dash assembly you can also take the aluminum support bracket that supports the steering column on 92 up trucks fixing both of your issues a 2wd is the same As far as I know the only centurion wiring that I came Across is rear window switch , reAr heat/ ac fan switch rear window defroster switch all had to be wired to the dash I installed do you have the later model column ? Think I saw the multi function switch in. Pic if not you'll need to get that when you find dash as 91 were different

Which multifunction switch are you referring to? As near as I can tell, I have the compleat 1994.5 wiring harness with everything that was supposed to go to it.

I went ahead and went back to the 1994.5 harness in the cab instead of trying to patch in the 1996 harness. The engine runs, will start from the key. Headlights work, brake lights, turn signals all work.

However, the tachometer does not work, the ammeter/voltmeter doesn't work, and it looks like the dash lights don't work. The heater/AC blower doesn't work either.

Oddly, the turn signal indicators come on when the key is on. Not sure what's going on there. Something is definitely not right, though.

IsaLandr
12-15-2014, 12:13 AM
Bump... anybody have suggestions or recommendations of how to track down these issues?

68Mercury250Ranger
12-15-2014, 03:13 AM
wow you are doing well, the only multifunction switch is the signal/wiper/dimmer on the 92-96 column. I'm thinking you are easiest to use the 96 dash/harness/pedals assembly if you have them already.

I'm putting a 96 F350 7.3PSD auto powertrain and dash into my 93 bronco and took this week off work to make it happen. i'll try and take as many pics as possible . as it is a similar issue you are working on. mine is a bit simpler as I have no rear window in my tailgate and also have a soft top on my bronc. not many people have done the legwork for the conversion you have tackled to make work so "educated answers" are pretty hard to come by.

the guys here are trying their best to help I can see by the posts. If I can help with my disassemble>>>> assemble it would be awesome. but no guarantees.

cheers James

IsaLandr
12-15-2014, 03:52 AM
wow you are doing well, the only multifunction switch is the signal/wiper/dimmer on the 92-96 column. I'm thinking you are easiest to use the 96 dash/harness/pedals assembly if you have them already.

I'm putting a 96 F350 7.3PSD auto powertrain and dash into my 93 bronco and took this week off work to make it happen. i'll try and take as many pics as possible . as it is a similar issue you are working on. mine is a bit simpler as I have no rear window in my tailgate and also have a soft top on my bronc. not many people have done the legwork for the conversion you have tackled to make work so "educated answers" are pretty hard to come by.

the guys here are trying their best to help I can see by the posts. If I can help with my disassemble>>>> assemble it would be awesome. but no guarantees.

cheers James

I tried using the 1996 dash wiring harness, but it doesn't match the 1994.5 engine harness. There are some small but significant differences in several key areas, that make just plugging the 1996 harness into the 1994.5 harness problematic. I don't have enough information to properly modify the 1996 dash harness to work with the 1994.5 engine harness, unfortunately. So I have gone back to the 1994.5 dash harness, which appears compleat and unbroken. With the exception of one missing plug that I spliced back on, the 1994.5 dash harness appears whole and in very good shape. Better condition than the 1996 harness, actually. Sticking with the 1994.5 harness seems to be my safest course.

However... There's something seriously wrong with the electrical in this thing. I don't even know where to begin trying to describe what it's doing and not doing. It's kind of driving me a little crazy. Or a lot crazy. I can't for the life of me see what is going on in there. Maybe it's just missing grounds? Or something that isn't quite right in the engine compartment? I don't know.

But, I've ordered a copy of the 1994 EVTM, hopefully it will be the edition with the Powerstroke in it. That will help with a lot of questions.

Mainly I just need a starting point on tracking down the problems. The engine starts and runs, but the tachometer doesn't work. The alternator works, but the ammeter/voltage gauge doesn't work. The fuel gauge is pegged at max. Temp and oil pressure gauges seem to work properly.

The headlight bright indicator comes on when the truck is on or running. So do the dash backlights. But all the dash lights go out when I turn on the headlights. The high beam indicator only goes out when I actually put it on brights. The turn signal indicator lights in the dash are always on if the truck is on. When the wipers will turn on (which is not every time), the dash lights brighten and dim with the movement of the wipers. The heater blower doesn't work at all.

When we first got it, the wait to start light and water in fuel lights would come on when I turned it on, and then go out when it started. Now the wait to start doesn't come on at all. The water in fuel light comes on and goes off with the dash lights. You can hear the glow plug solenoid doing its job, though, and it starts relatively easy, so I'm sure they're working.

However, turn signals work, headlights and running lights work, brake lights work. Engine starts and stops with the keyswitch.

At startup, the engine surges at idle, and will die if I let it. But if I am fast enough with the accelerator pedal and that little IVS switch under it, I can get it to idle and accelerate properly. Takes a little fiddling, but I can usually get it working okay. Not sure what's causing this, but it's really annoying.

I can't get it warm enough to open the thermostat, I can stand there and watch the water not circulate. But it is circulating hot water all the way to the back where the aux rear heater is. The hoses to that are very warm. The temp gauge needle hardly gets to the N in Normal, and usually won't even get that warm.

The oil pressure gauge usually reads right about middle of its range. Sometimes once it's started it takes a little while to climb up to the middle, but it eventually gets there. It's certainly not as fast-responding as the pressure gauge in my M923. Gets warmer in the heater hoses faster than the M923 does, too.

I really need to know why the tachometer doesn't work. I've never heard of this. And my forum searching hasn't turned anything up on it either. Usually if the tach doesn't work, the engine won't run either. So this seems to be a new thing. Hopefully somebody somewhere can tell me how to solve it.

68Mercury250Ranger
12-15-2014, 04:19 AM
by your latest description of problems....... make anew ground wire from engine to firewall and make sure you have good connections, and possibly a ground wire from firewall to instrument cluster. all the issues steer towards a lack of grounds. I got a 1994 EVTM amual wit the set I got on Friday, will check it for powerstroke stuff but my hopes are not up on that. sorry can't help you more, have done a few diesel conversions but never idi to powerstroke harness'

cheers James

Traveler
12-15-2014, 09:14 AM
Yep, the dash light, high beam, turn signal indicator problem is a bad or lack of ground to the gauge cluster.

It may have a bad thermostat, and/or just not warming up. Idling they usually don't warm up much. The hoses will get hot to the touch long before the temp gauge will ever start to move. That is normal.

The oil pressure gauge is "filtered" actually all of them are, so they are going to respond slow. That is okay just as long as they work.

Need to put a test light on the wait to start light and verify that it is not just a bulb, or swap the bulb with your water in fuel light.

IsaLandr
12-15-2014, 10:54 AM
Yep, the dash light, high beam, turn signal indicator problem is a bad or lack of ground to the gauge cluster.

It may have a bad thermostat, and/or just not warming up. Idling they usually don't warm up much. The hoses will get hot to the touch long before the temp gauge will ever start to move. That is normal.

The oil pressure gauge is "filtered" actually all of them are, so they are going to respond slow. That is okay just as long as they work.

Need to put a test light on the wait to start light and verify that it is not just a bulb, or swap the bulb with your water in fuel light.

There are two ground wires coming down from the passenger side of the dash harness. I screwed them into one of the screws holding a cover plate on in the side of the kick panel area. I checked it for continuity to ground and it checked out okay. Should I move those somewhere else? Or is there another ground wire somewhere that I am missing? I only saw those two.

I've swapped out several of those indicator panel things with the wait to start and water in fuel and whatever else they do. I have four or five of those little panels, I have swapped several in, none of them light up the wait to start. I'll try swapping bulbs around, I suppose they could all be bad.

Why doesn't the tach work? What do I need to do to get the tach working? That's one of my most important gauges. I've been doing a lot of internet searching over the last few days, and can find nothing on this issue. Apparently generally if the tach doesn't work, the engine doesn't run either. If the engine runs, the tach works. So I have nothing on this issue.

Also can't figure out why the ammeter/voltmeter doesn't work. The alternator is putting out 14.65 volts like it should. But I have no reading on the ammeter/voltmeter at all.

IsaLandr
12-15-2014, 10:57 AM
by your latest description of problems....... make anew ground wire from engine to firewall and make sure you have good connections, and possibly a ground wire from firewall to instrument cluster. all the issues steer towards a lack of grounds. I got a 1994 EVTM amual wit the set I got on Friday, will check it for powerstroke stuff but my hopes are not up on that. sorry can't help you more, have done a few diesel conversions but never idi to powerstroke harness'

cheers James

Where should I make a ground wire connection? There is a ground wire that already goes to the firewall, it's attached very close to the wiper motor assembly. But I can't tell where on the engine it should go. Any suggestions?

I suspect the engine to radiator support groundwire is also missing. Will look for that today. And look for other missing or disconnected grounds. I know there are supposed to be a lot of them, I just don't know where they are or where they're supposed to be connected.

I've ordered a 1994 EVTM from ebay yesterday. Hopefully it's the edition with Powerstrokes in it. Being a 1994.5 engine, the early 1994 edition EVTM doesn't have it.

Traveler
12-15-2014, 11:47 AM
The ground wire location is probably fine inside the cab. Now do you have a ground from the cab to the engine block or from the battery to the body and frame? There is usually a ground that goes from the back of the engine to the firewall.

When the tach doesn't work it is usually the CPS, since the engine runs the CPS is fine, so there is a bad wire, or mis located wire from the ECM to the gauge cluster.
Probably the same with the alternator. Something probably isn't mating up right on gauge cluster.

I think I would take the wiring diagram and try to match up the wire colors and pin locations on the instrument cluster plug. If they don't match the diagram, why?
You can also trace out the tracks on the back of the gauge cluster and see where they go and what they run. Make sure the tach actually back to the tach pin.
If all else fails it could be a ECM issue. We have one truck where it runs perfectly, everything works fine, but for whatever reason the ECM stopped turning the wait to start light off. It was stuck on all the time, so rather than get an ecm we made a little timer in there to shut the light off, that allowed the remote start to work properly.
For the wait to start light there is one wire coming out of the ecm, that is all it does is control the light. You can put a test light on that wire and see if it changes state after so long, if it doesn't change state, then at least that portion of the ecm has failed.

IsaLandr
12-15-2014, 12:36 PM
The ground wire location is probably fine inside the cab. Now do you have a ground from the cab to the engine block or from the battery to the body and frame? There is usually a ground that goes from the back of the engine to the firewall.

When the tach doesn't work it is usually the CPS, since the engine runs the CPS is fine, so there is a bad wire, or mis located wire from the ECM to the gauge cluster.
Probably the same with the alternator. Something probably isn't mating up right on gauge cluster.

I think I would take the wiring diagram and try to match up the wire colors and pin locations on the instrument cluster plug. If they don't match the diagram, why?
You can also trace out the tracks on the back of the gauge cluster and see where they go and what they run. Make sure the tach actually back to the tach pin.
If all else fails it could be a ECM issue. We have one truck where it runs perfectly, everything works fine, but for whatever reason the ECM stopped turning the wait to start light off. It was stuck on all the time, so rather than get an ecm we made a little timer in there to shut the light off, that allowed the remote start to work properly.
For the wait to start light there is one wire coming out of the ecm, that is all it does is control the light. You can put a test light on that wire and see if it changes state after so long, if it doesn't change state, then at least that portion of the ecm has failed.

I guess I need to pull the ECM out and see what's going on in there. Are all the ECMs the same between the years? The ECM we have is a replacement unit. The donor truck was totalled in an accident, and the original ECM was damaged in the accident (pin connector all bent up), so this isn't the original unit. I do have the damaged unit around here somewhere, though. I'm not sure what the replacement ECM came out of.

Now on top of electrical issues, it isn't running quite right either. Not sure what the problem is, but it doesn't sound like it did before. Sounds... not good.

Traveler
12-15-2014, 01:09 PM
ECMs are different based on year, transmission. To test the engine and gauges it shouldn't matter, but a permanent replacement will make a difference.

Running differently, could be many different things. Make sure it has oil and fuel and there isn't much else you can do until you get the wiring done.
Maybe you shouldn't keep starting it until you get more of the wires straightened out. You might be creating problems running it with un grounded circuits.

Ground wire can go to a manifold bolt or valve cover bolt.

IsaLandr
12-15-2014, 01:39 PM
ECMs are different based on year, transmission. To test the engine and gauges it shouldn't matter, but a permanent replacement will make a difference.

Running differently, could be many different things. Make sure it has oil and fuel and there isn't much else you can do until you get the wiring done.
Maybe you shouldn't keep starting it until you get more of the wires straightened out. You might be creating problems running it with un grounded circuits.

Ground wire can go to a manifold bolt or valve cover bolt.

I was trying to get it warmed up enough to circulate coolant so I could get some fresh antifreeze in there. It's been over freezing for the last two weeks, so I didn't worry about it. Before we got it, it was stored inside where freezing wasn't an issue. Now that it's living outside and the temps are getting below freezing, it really needs the right coolant mixture in there to prevent damage. But so far, I have been unable to get it warm enough for the coolant to start circulating. At idle it just doesn't generate enough heat to open the thermostat. Not sure what to do about that at this point.

The block heater works, I can hear it sizzling when I plug it in (not sure I should be able to hear that... is that a bad sign?). For last night and this morning I used that to keep the block warm. It seemed to work.

It has fresh oil, and the oil pressure gauge seems to work, showing decent pressure, right about where it should be. Fuel gauge isn't working, but the guy said it was a full tank of fuel when we got it. I need to check actual level, but it seemed pretty full when I looked last. Will check that again today.

I really need that EVTM so I know where the wires should go, and how to recognize which wires go where. I don't even have an accurate colour code for the wiring that is in there.

The replacement ECM could be from a different year truck, maybe even one from an automatic. How can I tell? Would an incorrect ECM be causing some of these propblems, such as the tach not working, or the voltmeter not working?

There were no ground wires that I could see going to manifolds or valve covers. there is one wire that goes down somewhere at the back of the engine, can't tell if it goes to the block or to somewhere on the firewall. I bolted the loose end to a firewall ground bolt. Another ground was loose, one end goes to the firewall near the wiper motor, the other end wasn't attached. I took off one AC compressor bolt and put the ground under that. There were two other unconnected grounds coming from the light harness behind the left headlight, I bolted those down.

I could not find any other unconnected ground wires. I used a multimeter to verify that each ground wire I can see is in fact grounding properly.

Grounding out those wires behind the headlights solved a couple minor issues with dash lights, but most of the odd behaviour is still present.

IsaLandr
12-15-2014, 02:37 PM
How can I tell which ECM I have? I just opened up the old damaged one. It doesn't appear physically damaged inside. There are no markings on the outside of the case except the Ford logo. There was a sticker on the rear small accessory cover, but it's unreadable. The inside markings are "(PWB2670) T5TF-14A608-EB DPC-203". That's on both sides of the PCB inside the case. Another spot of the PCB says "05 003-50-93".

I'm still trying to get the other ECM out of the truck to see what it says. Might try hooking the original back in and see what happens. The pins are kind of bent on it, not sure it will plug in correctly like that. I tried straightening them, but I don't know how well I did at that.

IsaLandr
12-15-2014, 03:12 PM
I now hold in my hands the ECM that was installed in the truck. What a pain to get that out. Sheesh. Thanks, Ford.

This one has a sticker on the plastic frame of the pin connector with the following information: "DPC-202 TDE1 Remanufactured GM2---00RFXB F7TF-12A650-TB C NPF 06J20"

The PCB itself has "(PWB3987) F5TF-14A608-DE (DPC-202 EEC-V)".

IsaLandr
12-15-2014, 04:19 PM
There is a number on the plug that goes into the ECM:

"F5SB-14A454-AA 141 6L20B0 b"

not sure if that makes any difference or not.

IsaLandr
12-15-2014, 04:23 PM
According to this page http://www.obdtester.com/ford-ecu-update/e_series/7.3l_di_tc/1997/F7TF-12A650-TB

The ECM currently in my truck is for a 1997 7.3l Powerstroke. No wonder I'm having issues.

I guess I need to find the ECM from a 1994.5 truck. Sigh. I'm annoyed. A lot annoyed. This whole thing is pissing me right off.

What's the difference between the ECM units in these trucks anyway?

Traveler
12-15-2014, 05:10 PM
They tweaked ECMs year to year based on engine, transmission and emission levels. I think like the TDE1 was the most sought after for trucks with the automatic.
Looks like you found the break down in ecm codes so that should help.
So approach it like this, is the replacement tach from Ford the same part number for a 1997 as it is for a 1994.5? If they are then the tach should work with that ecm.

Block heater will sizzle, that is just fine. If you need to get it hot enough to circulate, then put carb board between the radiator and ac condenser, then rev the engine. You will have to sit there for 5 mintues holding the pedal. Keep the rpms up until the heat comes up. Once the heat is built it will probably hold it.

Checking a ground connection for continuity is great, but if it is a poor connection it will show continuity until you put a load on it. Such as your blinker works fine until you hit the brake pedal or turn the headlights on then they stop or do funny things.

IsaLandr
12-15-2014, 05:22 PM
I'm sure I'm missing something in the grounds. There has to be more to it than just the ones I've located. I'll go through them one by one and check them, and see if I can find any others that I haven't already located. I'm just so frustrated with the whole thing right now.

Part of the issue is how cold it is. I go out there, stumble around a bit, get frustrated and cold, come in and sit in front of the warm fire with the computer on my lap, looking for information. Then I get some more courage, go back out in the cold, try to get some work done, and the process repeats.

If I could get it to start and run properly, I'd do the cardboard thing. Right now I have the ECM pulled out, batteries disconnected, etc. Last time I started it, I could get it to idle but it was running rough. I'm afraid if I run it too much with the wiring jacked up I'll hurt it. We can't afford a huge repair bill on this thing so soon after we bought it.

Looks like I'm going to have to find another PCM, from the right year. And who knows what else I'm going to have to obtain before this is done. The current tach is the original from the 1994.5 truck, I believe. I think I read somewhere that the physical pinouts are different between years, so that has to be checked too.

IsaLandr
12-15-2014, 07:56 PM
Okay. Just returned from the scrapyard again. Got the missing vacuum connector for the heater controls, and another PCM. This one is from a 1995 F350 PSD 4x4 with manual transmission.

The numbers on this one are: "DPC-203 SOD4 EEC-V F5TF-12A650-BTE CZ1S1 38QG1 JD".

If what I've been reading is correct, the 1995 PCM will work correctly with the 1994.5 harness. So we'll see what happens when I put it in.

Polarburg
12-15-2014, 10:37 PM
Is the engine side harness complete or plucked like a chicken like the inside? Lol seriously ,sounds like your getting closer . These instrument clusters are known for problems , if the ECM swap doesn't get the tach working , you might want to try to locate one or have yours repaired . Does the glow plug controller work test lite on the side that doesn't have constant battery power key on, will energize it , ECM determines length of time on from temp sensor , map sensor . If its working , KI wouldn't get to worried about the light . Not knowing what the last guy used or not used would have myself tearing all the wiring out of this truck and replacing it with harnesses from a truck hat was running p until something happened , ( trans problems or blown motor ...I you can find that , I think you'll be chasing gremlins in that n will be disappointed . I have replaced engine harness on a newer super duty that burned up a couple injectors before. I found the problem with it . Bad harnesses on these get costly . If a injector loses ground it will ground it self up . $250 bucks apiece is not nice to shell out .i have a 97 ford electrical manual if you need some pics of pin Idefinaction . I used it to sort out power window / locks on my swap and everything was the same from the 95 and the 92 body wiring or very close

IsaLandr
12-16-2014, 12:28 AM
Is the engine side harness complete or plucked like a chicken like the inside? Lol seriously ,sounds like your getting closer . These instrument clusters are known for problems , if the ECM swap doesn't get the tach working , you might want to try to locate one or have yours repaired . Does the glow plug controller work test lite on the side that doesn't have constant battery power key on, will energize it , ECM determines length of time on from temp sensor , map sensor . If its working , KI wouldn't get to worried about the light . Not knowing what the last guy used or not used would have myself tearing all the wiring out of this truck and replacing it with harnesses from a truck hat was running p until something happened , ( trans problems or blown motor ...I you can find that , I think you'll be chasing gremlins in that n will be disappointed . I have replaced engine harness on a newer super duty that burned up a couple injectors before. I found the problem with it . Bad harnesses on these get costly . If a injector loses ground it will ground it self up . $250 bucks apiece is not nice to shell out .i have a 97 ford electrical manual if you need some pics of pin Idefinaction . I used it to sort out power window / locks on my swap and everything was the same from the 95 and the 92 body wiring or very close

I'm going to have to chase down the power locks and power windows issues at some point, also. The wiring for that part is pretty hacked up. There's a lot wrong with that part, but I'm not worrying about that right now. I got the windows up, and that was good enough for now.

However, both the engine and dash parts of the 1994.5 wiring harness is compleat. As I think I mentioned, there are some plugs in the engine side that aren't connected to anything, I need to find out what they're for and then connect them if they need to be connected. But overall, the harness is compleat and appears to be in good shape.

The engine, transmission, engine harness, and dash harness were taken from a running truck, a 1994.5 F250. The only part that didn't come from that truck is the PCM, and that's because the original PCM was damaged in the accident that totalled the truck in the first place. I thought the dash harness was really screwed up because it had been removed from the dash assembly and had plugs and stuff going everywhere.

But, once I compared it to a compleat whole dash from another truck, I realized it was actually compleat, and just needed to be put back into the dash assembly and hooked up to the various boxes that are build into the dash. Now that I've done that, I can see that it's all there, and is in good condition.

There are some issues to sort out, but everyone seems to be convinced that it's bad grounds in the harness. And I'm inclined to agree. I seriously suspect the big grounds from the engine to the frame are not connected. There may be others.

On the other hand, I'm worried about damaging the engine with bad wiring issues. It was running pretty perfectly before I started messing with the harness... now it runs like crap. I don't want to damage the engine or hurt it in any way, so I'm concerned and am trying to be careful with it. Maybe replacing the PCM with the correct unit will sort some of those issues out, I guess I'll find out tomorrow.

And as mentioned, I'm worried about damaging the injectors. There's a lot I don't know about this stuff. I'm trying to learn, as best I can. This is kind of a steep and potentially very expensive learning curve.

natterre
12-16-2014, 07:48 AM
On my 1996 power stroke, both batteries have large gauge ground wires that go down to the engine and bolt to the block - one on each side. I am assuming that these are in place on yhours, but those gave me some problems as they were both corroded. I cleaned them up and that solved my charging issues, but I didn't have any instrument panel issues. You might just double check those connections.

IsaLandr
12-16-2014, 10:52 AM
On my 1996 power stroke, both batteries have large gauge ground wires that go down to the engine and bolt to the block - one on each side. I am assuming that these are in place on yhours, but those gave me some problems as they were both corroded. I cleaned them up and that solved my charging issues, but I didn't have any instrument panel issues. You might just double check those connections.

Thank you for the tip. I will try to crawl under there today and check those connections. I was wondering where those two cables go. If they don't currently go to the block, I should move them there.

I'm assuming there should also be some kind of grounding strap from the block to the body. I need to make sure that's there, too. Where should it be?

IsaLandr
12-16-2014, 01:36 PM
Okay. There was quite a bit of some kind of hard buildup on the ground cables to the block. I took those off this morning and cleaned them up. Scraped that hard stuff off, cleaned up the block and bolts, and got it all snugged up again. I think we have good solid grounds from batteries to block now.

Also got the new PCM installed. Hopefully that solves at least some of my issues. We'll see.

I'm still looking for bad grounds. I'm sure there are more. I think there should be some kind of ground strap between the body and frame, and between frame and block, and from block to body. I don't see anything like that under there. I'm betting that's a large part of my electrical problem. Where should there be grounding straps?

Traveler
12-16-2014, 02:17 PM
I thought you had seen one on the firewall?
At the back of the engine to the firewall should be one. Usually it is braided, bit it doesn't matter. Just a clean connection from the firewall to the block. Anywhere is fine.
Same with the frame. The frame is nor as important but just ad one like from the block to the frame anywhere.
Lastly go from the battery or the block to a fender or radiator support. Doesn't matter where just anything.
That should be good enough to cover everything.

Lastly will be local stuff like you were doing. Cluster to ground. Radio to ground.

Get the PCM mounted in place where it goes so the case is grounded properly. Same with the idm if it hasn't already been mounted

IsaLandr
12-16-2014, 02:42 PM
Ground the PCM and IDM? Really? Well now there's a thing. The PCM is in a bracket under the dash. It can't be pulled out from the engine side like in later trucks, has to be removed from inside the cab. Really odd. I will check to see if the mounting bracket grounds. If not, I'll be adding a ground to that as well.

The IDM isn't mounted. It's just sitting inside the engine bay on the inner fender down in the pocket area next to where all the firewall plugs are. I have no idea how it should be mounted, there are no brackets or mounting holes or anything. Not sure what to do with that. I guess I will have to find a way to ground that as well. But how is it supposed to be mounted?

There is a wire, looks like maybe 8 or 10 gauge, that is hardmounted to the grounding wire where it attaches to the block. The other end of that cable goes to the frame above the crossmember. I could not see how it was attached. That's the cable that had a bad splice in it, I cut the ends off and put in a brand new butt splice. Should be good. There is a cable similar to that one, that goes from the battery negative clamp on the driver's side, to the body. There is another cable that goes from the firewall, it wasn't connected to anything, so I attached it under one of the bolts for the AC compressor. There were two unconnected grounds from the light harness behind the left headlight, i bolted both of those down to the grill framework. There was one more, that seems to come from behind the engine, that also wasn't attached anywhere, I bolted that to the firewall above the heater blower assembly. I do not know where the other end of that one goes, it looks like it goes down behind the engine to the bell housing area, but I can't see the other end so I am not sure.

I'm not worried about the radio right now, but that's good advice. Need to make sure it has a good ground when I put it back in. Same with the alarm when I'm ready to put that back in. And I still have to track down what's up with the power door locks. Those still don't work. And of course the interior lights, the CB radio, etc. There's a lot of interior stuff that will need doing as time goes along.

I've got a good bead on getting power to the power windows. I know where those are supposed to be attached I'll get that taken care of shortly. Then we'll at least have operable windows. I also need to get the rear heater blower wired in, but that looks pretty simple. And, of course, get the actual cab heater and wipers working properly. Without wipers or defroster, this thing will be undriveable.

Traveler
12-16-2014, 02:48 PM
The PCM and IDM don't have ground straps to the case, but they are mounted to steel or aluminum that is grounded. That gives it protection from voltage spikes, surges and interference.

So if the PCM is mounted (slid into) steel brackets then no problem.
The IDM bolts to the driver's side fender. Inside towards the back of the fenderwell.

IsaLandr
12-16-2014, 04:00 PM
The PCM and IDM don't have ground straps to the case, but they are mounted to steel or aluminum that is grounded. That gives it protection from voltage spikes, surges and interference.

So if the PCM is mounted (slid into) steel brackets then no problem.
The IDM bolts to the driver's side fender. Inside towards the back of the fenderwell.

I'll have to figure out how to get the IDM mounted, then. And make sure the PCM is grounded as well. Shouldn't be too difficult. Maybe I can steal the mounts from the scrapyard.

On a related note, here's a newbie brainless question... how do I check for fuel delivery at the engine? I am starting to think I may have run the tank out of fuel, but I do not know how to check. It's one of those tanks mounted between the frame rails at the very back... knocking on it doesn't provide many clues.

So... where is the fuel bowl I've heard people talking about? How do I check for fuel delivery at the injectors? I need to find out if I've fun out of fuel or not.

And lastly... what's that little lever on the side of what I believe is the fuel pump for? It's on the right side front, near the glow plug relay. On ours it's yellow. I can move it all the way to the right, and back forward to full front again. I don't know what it's for or what it does. Can anyone tell me?

Traveler
12-16-2014, 04:14 PM
The yellow lever is the the drain valve for the fuel filter housing. If it works it allows you to drain the fuel level down before changing the filter. That is the fuel bowl.

To check fuel pressure, on the driver's side of that housing, there should be a little plastic screw on cap. It is actually on the pressure regulator. If you take that cap off it will reveal a tire valve. That is where you check fuel pressure. You can use a tire gauge, but it will ruin the guage. Pressure should be 45 psi or greater while cranking the engine or running.

It has a mechanical fuel pump mounted in the valley under the turbo.

IsaLandr
12-16-2014, 04:41 PM
The yellow lever is the the drain valve for the fuel filter housing. If it works it allows you to drain the fuel level down before changing the filter. That is the fuel bowl.

To check fuel pressure, on the driver's side of that housing, there should be a little plastic screw on cap. It is actually on the pressure regulator. If you take that cap off it will reveal a tire valve. That is where you check fuel pressure. You can use a tire gauge, but it will ruin the guage. Pressure should be 45 psi or greater while cranking the engine or running.

It has a mechanical fuel pump mounted in the valley under the turbo.

I did some internet searching right after I asked this question, and found out what that little yellow lever is for. I don't know where it drains to, but I can move it. I have no idea if fuel comes out or not, I can't see where it leads to.

My searching also disclosed that you can open the top of the fuel bowl, and there's a filter in there. So I did that. There is fuel in the bowl, and the filter looks a little dark. Should probably change that.

On the electrical side, things are getting a little weird. I'm getting 4.6vdc on one side of the wiper control fuse, and 12vdc on the other. Something is backfeeding that circuit. In fact, several of the fuses show between .10 and .20vdc on the outgoing leg. I'm not sure what's going on there. When I remove the main keyswitch body from its plug, the backfeeding stops.

Could there be something wrong with the keyswitch?

IsaLandr
12-16-2014, 04:45 PM
I'm basically back to square one here. It won't start. While cranking, you can tell it kinda sorta wants to start, and it almost catches, but... no go. It will not start.

Could the PCM I got from the scrapyard be bad? Would it hurt anything to go back to the PCM I was using before, at least to troubleshoot this thing?

How do I diagnose the no-start issues?

I think I'm going to sort out the wiring issues first, but... I'm going to have to address the no-start at some point.

Somebody said that, even with the engine not running, or even with no engine at all, I should be able to sort out the electrical. So I really want to get that done. It just needs to be finished and working.

But, when it's all said and done, the thing is a truck. It should run. The rest of it is useless without a working engine. How best to troubleshoot no-start issues?

By the way, the wait to start light still doesn't come on anymore. Maybe it's too warm, at 40 degrees F? I don't know. That worked all the time before I started messing with things. Now it doesn't work at all. Did I screw something up?

IsaLandr
12-16-2014, 06:13 PM
Getting weirder here. I think there is at least one crossed wire somewhere. But I do not know where.

When I turn on the heater controls, the blower motor doesn't spin, but the backlight for the heater controls comes on. I know that's not supposed to come on except with the dash switch.

I checked the blower motor, it works. plugging it directly to +12vdc makes it spin. Putting +12vdc directly to the heater controls does nothing... except light the backlight. So... something very not right in there.

I'm pulling out the entire dash and harness now. Maybe tonight I can trace down these problems and figure out what it is.

IsaLandr
12-17-2014, 01:47 AM
Getting things slowly figured out. I did some wire tracing between the 1996 harness and the 1994.5 harness. I needed to know where some wires go that are shared in both harnesses... So I cut open the 1996 harness to see where they go.

Turns out the two ground wires that come down on the passenger side? Aren't grounds for the whole dash harness. they just ground part of the instrument cluster, the stock radio plugs, and what I think is the ABS control box. Nothing else in the entire harness grounds to those wires. So where does the entire dash harness ground through?

No wonder the whole thing has been acting funny. When I thought it was grounded, it really wasn't. This explains all the funny light behaviour, the heater not working, the wipers not working, all of it. There was literally no primary ground at all.

I've found a wire I can turn into a permanent ground, though, so that's something. I still need to find a good place to mount it, but I'm sure the system will start functioning correctly once I do. Funny how weird things will get when there is no proper ground.

I will be re-installing the dash and harness day after tomorrow, I think. Had a sudden unexpected out of town trip come up tomorrow that I have to deal with. So hopefully will be back on task Thursday. We'll see.

Traveler
12-17-2014, 10:00 AM
I would start putting the dash and steering column in. They are also part of your ground system.

I remember seeing ground wires screwed to the pass side kick panel, the driver's side kick panel. The dash brackets along the bottom of the dash. Seems like they were everywhere. Basically any wire with an eyelet on it is probably a ground.

You are headed the right direction. You know the harness is good now. Start putting it in place, hook up what you can then see what you have left. At least that is how I would approach it.

IsaLandr
12-17-2014, 11:39 AM
I would start putting the dash and steering column in. They are also part of your ground system.

I remember seeing ground wires screwed to the pass side kick panel, the driver's side kick panel. The dash brackets along the bottom of the dash. Seems like they were everywhere. Basically any wire with an eyelet on it is probably a ground.

You are headed the right direction. You know the harness is good now. Start putting it in place, hook up what you can then see what you have left. At least that is how I would approach it.

You hit the nail on the head. That is exactly what I am going to do. One wire at a time, one system at a time, untill it all works right. Or at least the main stuff that we need in order to live. Wipers, heater, power windows, lights. And if I can make them work, the overhead lights. That would be a really nice bonus if I could get those working. The door lights would be nice too.

The problem I have is, some of the wires were hacked off below the plug where they went into the rest of the cab harness. You know, where the plugs for the power locks and power windows and overhead lights and door lights and all of that are.

On the passenger side, that's no big deal, I can deal with it later after everything is buttoned up. On the driver's side, all that crap is behind the steering column support superstructure. So I have to sort that crap out before I put that in, otherwise I won't be able to see or reach those wires.

I'll put the dash in, and get it bolted down as much as I can, and connect as many wires as I can reach, and that I know where go. And ground everything. I may add a couple grounds just to be sure. I think I know where I can put one or two to help things along. Once I've confirmed that the dash wiring is working correctly, I will start working on the cab wiring. If I can get at least some of that sorted out, or maybe extend those wires out where I can reach them with the steering stuff installed, I'll be satisfied for the moment.

IsaLandr
12-18-2014, 11:40 PM
Okay. Interesting developments tonight. Some things work, other things don't work. Improvements are being made.

I found a good solid ground, got that sorted out, the dash put back in. Everything in the dash, all the lights, all started behaving like they're supposed to. The wait to start indicator is now working again. The tachometer started working. Oil and temp gauges still work properly. The voltmeter looks like it's working. The fuel gauge might even be working too. Wipers work like they should. And the heater blower now blows, though only at two speeds instead of the four it's supposed to have. I'll have to sort that out later too. At least it works.

The ABS module appears to be working properly. The ABS light comes on, I hear the click test under the dash, and the light goes out. Check engine light was on for a bit, but it's gone out now.

And, oddly, now the power windows and power locks work properly. All I did was reconnect one cut wire and both systems came back online. This is a good sign. I may go get one of those keyless entry controllers later on. Or I'll put the alarm back in. We'll wee.

However, where before the speedometer would come off its peg and sit at 0, now it's pegged all the way over at max and won't come back down. Not sure what's going on with that. It's weird though. What would cause the speedometer to peg over all the way to max and stay there, even with the power off?

It still won't start, but I'll get into that tomorrow. For now, all the major electrical seems to be sorted out, and that's a very good thing. We're that much closer to getting this thing rolling.

68Mercury250Ranger
12-18-2014, 11:56 PM
sounds like you have it under control.

does it smell like unburnt fuel when you are cranking?

I'm going a silly direction with my psd swap into my 2dr bronco, was going to use a nice 97 powerstroke and 5spd I had saved but my wife reminded me it was saved for my 96 CCshorty that needs the 7.5EFI/5spd removed for fuel consumption reasons:BangHead:. she wants the crewcab done:blush:

you will be a specialist by the time you are done. get some pics of that dash installed ..........................

I using a 2003 van motor with all the electronics from it and getting the 4R100 gone over. I needed to cut up the van anyway as its no longer mobile. I'll be doing all the disassemble/assemble so hopefully I will remember where it all goes.

IsaLandr
12-19-2014, 12:26 AM
sounds like you have it under control.

does it smell like unburnt fuel when you are cranking?

I'm going a silly direction with my psd swap into my 2dr bronco, was going to use a nice 97 powerstroke and 5spd I had saved but my wife reminded me it was saved for my 96 CCshorty that needs the 7.5EFI/5spd removed for fuel consumption reasons:BangHead:. she wants the crewcab done:blush:

you will be a specialist by the time you are done. get some pics of that dash installed ..........................

I using a 2003 van motor with all the electronics from it and getting the 4R100 gone over. I needed to cut up the van anyway as its no longer mobile. I'll be doing all the disassemble/assemble so hopefully I will remember where it all goes.

I think I do have it under control now. At least the electrical part. The mechanical part still needs sorting. Have to get the steering column installed, and get the transfer case adjusted. And then re-install the tunnel covers, the carpet... Oh, and the headliner needs to be fixed, it got torn up when we had it towed home, because I couldn't get the windows up, so the wind tore the headliner loose. Gonna be a pain to fix.

Not sure what it smells like while cranking. My previous direct diesel experience is the NHC250 in our M923. That's a whole different animal. I have no experience to compare what the Powerstroke is doing. There is a strong smell, though.

The exhaust pipe ends next to the bell housing. Not sure how much of a problem that's going to be. I know we need to get the exhaust piping finished, but for now I'm concentrating on just getting it running and rolling down the road. Will the short pipe cause issues?

Make sure to do your own build thread on that PSD swap you're working on. I want to see a PSD Bronco.

Get lots of pictures. lots and lots of pictures. How easy is it going to be to fit that van powertrain into the Bronco? You're probably going to have to do the same wiring harness and dash swap that we had to do, right?

Just thought about it... I have to track down the wires to the seats. Gotta get the power seats operational again. Can't live without those, right?

I'll try to get some pictures tomorrow if I have time. The Centurion is coming together. Still have a lot of electrical issues to solve, and a number of controls yet to place. I have to figure out where I'm going to mount the control for the rear heater. There's the tailgate window control and defroster to place, as well.

I was thinking about moving some of the controls into the centre console. Either the one between the front seats, or the overhead console. Somewhere in the middle where both front seats have access to them. And maybe move the rear heater control somewhere convenient for anyone in the rear to reach. We'll see what I come up with.

I'm starting to feel like a specialist. This thing is a lot more complex and involved than I expected or was prepared for. But still the coolest thing in the world. I'll be so relieved when it's on the road.

68Mercury250Ranger
12-19-2014, 12:44 AM
the van motor is close but I need to use the L exhaust manifold and oil cooler from a pre superduty motor. I can use the 96-97 wiring harness but I will need to use an E4OD trans and won't be able to access all the 2003 power with the earlier electronics.

I think I will go with building a stand alone harness modified from the van's , I really wanted to use the stronger 4R100 trans anyway as I plan on using all the power available to me!!!!!!!!

we will see . I will definitely take lots of pics, I'm creeping up on 50 and have burned a lot of brain cells over the years:roflmao:. remembering where everything goes is scary when I work on big trucks and that's every day:BangHead:

you are doing a great job here, btw>>>> power seats usually only require 1 power wire.:wavey:

Traveler
12-19-2014, 09:06 AM
What you are looking for while cranking is smoke if you can't smell it. Did you ever check fuel pressure to see if you have fuel?

Next I would test the glow plug relay and glow plugs. Hopefully they are okay but with all the key on, key off you have been doing the last couple weeks it is possible the relay is fried.

Never hurts to have the block heater plugged in either.

The speedometer being pegged means it is getting feed back from some place most likely.

IsaLandr
12-19-2014, 10:51 AM
the van motor is close but I need to use the L exhaust manifold and oil cooler from a pre superduty motor. I can use the 96-97 wiring harness but I will need to use an E4OD trans and won't be able to access all the 2003 power with the earlier electronics.

I think I will go with building a stand alone harness modified from the van's , I really wanted to use the stronger 4R100 trans anyway as I plan on using all the power available to me!!!!!!!!

we will see . I will definitely take lots of pics, I'm creeping up on 50 and have burned a lot of brain cells over the years:roflmao:. remembering where everything goes is scary when I work on big trucks and that's every day:BangHead:

you are doing a great job here, btw>>>> power seats usually only require 1 power wire.:wavey:

And a ground! Can't forget that all-important ground! Right? One power, one ground, four bolts, and a whole lot of swearing because man, those clearances are TIGHT and I have big hands.

Thanks for the kind words. I'm doing the best I can on a shoestring budget and total newness to this powertrain. It'll be great when it's done.

We have a set of leather Eddie Bauer heated power captain's chairs to replace the stock captain's chairs, but they're from a fairly recent Excursion I think. They use a compleatly different seat base that does not mount the same way. Something will have to be adapted to make them work, so we're going to have to go with the original seats for now. Really looking forward to those leather seats when I get it figured out, though.

4R100... When did those come out? We have a 1996 E350-based RV with a 460 and auto in it, but I don't know which one. I had assumed it would be an E4OD, but I don't know enough to tell for sure. Would rather it had the 4R100, but I just don't know.

Definitely keep a photo log, and keep us all posted. This sounds like an exciting build. When I go to the scrapyard, I take pictures of the harnesses in trucks that still have them, so I can compare ours as I put it back together. It helps some.

heatmiser
12-19-2014, 10:54 AM
If remember correct we used a 4R100 in mine just needed to swap out the shift linkage
the van motor is close but I need to use the L exhaust manifold and oil cooler from a pre superduty motor. I can use the 96-97 wiring harness but I will need to use an E4OD trans and won't be able to access all the 2003 power with the earlier electronics.

I think I will go with building a stand alone harness modified from the van's , I really wanted to use the stronger 4R100 trans anyway as I plan on using all the power available to me!!!!!!!!

we will see . I will definitely take lots of pics, I'm creeping up on 50 and have burned a lot of brain cells over the years:roflmao:. remembering where everything goes is scary when I work on big trucks and that's every day:BangHead:

you are doing a great job here, btw>>>> power seats usually only require 1 power wire.:wavey:

IsaLandr
12-19-2014, 11:04 AM
What you are looking for while cranking is smoke if you can't smell it. Did you ever check fuel pressure to see if you have fuel?

Next I would test the glow plug relay and glow plugs. Hopefully they are okay but with all the key on, key off you have been doing the last couple weeks it is possible the relay is fried.

Never hurts to have the block heater plugged in either.

The speedometer being pegged means it is getting feed back from some place most likely.

There's smoke while cranking. It sounds like it wants to start, but it just doesn't quite get there. I suspect low voltage. The previous owner told us that if the batteries drop below +12.2vdc, it won't start no matter how strong the cranking sounds. It was at 12.08 last night, so... That might be it. Had the batteries on chargers all night, we'll see how it is this morning. Maybe it will start.

I do not know how to check for fuel pressure. I know you said there's a valve, but I don't know what to do with it.

The glow plug relay makes a clicking noise when I turn the keyswitch. The wait to start light is working again, stays on for a couple minutes and then goes out. When I first turn it on, the ABS light comes on, the glow plug relay clicks, the wait to start light comes on, then the ABS clicks and its light goes out. Sometimes the check engine light comes on, sometimes it does not.

Last night the fuel filter light came on for a while, and last week the water in fuel light would come on periodically, though at that time the wait to start light was not working. I do not know if either light is actually truthful or not.

I'm not sure how to test the glow plugs, but I can google it easily enough. Checking the relay with a multimeter is easy enough, I can do that later today. And I can also easily plug in the block heater. I know it works.

So now I have to trace down the speedo. Great. Hopefully it's not something serious. I will do some checking and see what happens. Hopefully the EVTM gets here soon so I can just look it up and see what the wire is supposed to be doing. Before I got the grounds sorted out, the speedo was working properly. Now I have the grounds sorted out and it's pegged. That's just weird.

68Mercury250Ranger
12-19-2014, 05:36 PM
Scanned all 6 pages from the DI section of the 94 EVTM manual, will try and load here into my gallery.

BUT ............... I'm computer adequate, not literate and definitely not savy. :toothless:

PM me with your email address and I'll send them direct. well I got page 5 to come in but my internet signal sucks right now so? will try again later.

68Mercury250Ranger
12-19-2014, 06:06 PM
more....:twotu:

68Mercury250Ranger
12-19-2014, 06:16 PM
I just saw a couple more pages breaking down the pin outs at the PCM etc. you should be fine there if its still connected. email me if you need them.

IsaLandr
12-19-2014, 06:17 PM
So here's this morning's update:

I got the speedometer sorted out. As it happens, apparently I somehow got the needle bumped over onto the max peg. Bumping it back over to the peg below 0, now it looks like it will probably work. When I turn the keyswitch on, the needle comes off the peg and sits at 0 like it used to.

Additionally, the entire dash cluster is working now. I'm pretty sure the fuel gauge is working. When I switch the tank controller over to the front tank setting (there is no front tank right now), the needle pegs all the way past maximum. When I put it back on rear tank, it goes to just above the full line and stays there.

Temp and oil pressure gauges appear to be working properly, which is good news. I need those two especially.

On a related point, the voltmeter appears to be working. Though the alternator is behaving oddly. After starting, the engine has to run for a while, maybe a couple minutes, before the alternator starts charging. The voltmeter shows discharging for a while, then the needle comes up to about the middle, and using a multimeter, I get about +13.5vdc at the batteries at idle. If I rev it up a bit, up to about 1500 or so, I get between +14.3vdc and +14.6vdc. I'm wondering why it takes so long for it to start charging and why it isn't charging consistently at all rpm levels.

I got the Idle Validation Switch taken care of, too. That's why it was surging at startup. The accelerator pedal linkage wasn't contacting the switch button at full rest. And there is no adjustment in the button mounting or the pedal linkage. So I had to bend the switch mount a little bit, till the button contacted the tab on the linkage. Now it works, and the engine starts properly and idles properly. It idles at about 750rpm, so I think that's probably good.

And I guess sort of lastly, the engine started and runs, and sounds not too bad. It doesn't sound quite as good as it did before I tore into the wiring harness, but it does start and run now. Idles like a champ, stops properly, restarts properly, seems like it's okay. I can hear the turbo clearly, too. Man I like that sound.

Now... there is white smoke coming out of the oil filler cap hole when I take the cap off while it's running. There wasn't any smoke before. Now there is. Before I started messing with the harness issues, I tried the trick of flippling the oil filler cap over and seeing what it did. Not only did it not blow off, it didn't vibrate off. There was a low pressure situation inside the valve cover, it literally sucked the fill cap against the hole and held it there. Not super tightly, it wasn't a huge draw, but enough to keep the cap from vibrating off, enough that I was easily able to tell that it was doing it. I don't know what that means, but that's what it was doing. And now, while there is smoke coming out when I remove the cap, it doesn't blow the cap off when I turn it over and set it over the hole. It just vibrates off like I've seen in several youtube videos.

So what does it mean, when it has a low pressure condition in the valve cover, and what does it mean when there is smoke coming out of the oil fill hole? Are either of these things bad signs?

68Mercury250Ranger
12-19-2014, 06:27 PM
the voltage not going up for a while is normal, its the glow plugs remaining on after startup. yup perfectly normal

I think you got it licked with any wiring diagrams.

now you need to post a short video of it running .:wavey:

heatmiser
12-19-2014, 08:21 PM
Those look like the books I have here, You work for Ford up there?

IsaLandr
12-20-2014, 12:36 AM
the voltage not going up for a while is normal, its the glow plugs remaining on after startup. yup perfectly normal

I think you got it licked with any wiring diagrams.

now you need to post a short video of it running .:wavey:

If I can get my cell phone to take a video, I'll see about doing that tomorrow or Sunday. The interior still looks like absolute Hel, because all I've done is mount the dash and connect up the important wires. There is still a huge mess of wires hanging down, and the steering column support isn't installed, which means the steering column isn't in, either.

There's still a lot of stuff to sort out, and the manuals are going to make a big difference in figuring that stuff out, but for now at least, it does run and all the dash stuff works. The door chime that comes on when you open the door with the headlights on and the engine off even works. Still no door lights or overhead lights, though. Have to figure out which wires go to those, so I can hook them up.

Glad to know the voltage not going up is normal. I was worried there for a bit. Thought maybe the alternator was dead. That's an expensive repair I don't want to have to deal with.

68Mercury250Ranger
12-20-2014, 01:29 AM
Those look like the books I have here, You work for Ford up there?

started out as an apprentice in the Ford Heavy Truck system in 1988. stayed with them until the end .(not at the same dealership) even followed Sterling for a while but there really wasn't much point. :brownbag:

built my Ford truck collection for over 25 years, lost it all to fire in March 2013, moved an hour away in July 2014. new shop coming in the spring. new collection is getting rolling but no where to work on it yet. man its frustrating.:BangHead:

I have found some cool rare stuff but not the same :ghostface: .

I used to scrounge every Ford manual that was being replaced or disposed of with enthusiasm, even got them from competing dealerships as all mechanics appreciate manuals. I actually even scored my own set of 64-72 Ford Microfiece(spelling?) because a parts guy refused to throw them out.

on a happier note: (sorry about that)

60' x32' look like an old bank barn from the road, 2 bay doors on the end not visible from the road, lots of trees to hide the parts vehicles. :toothless: 3 levels if it works out as planned!

cheers James

heatmiser
12-20-2014, 08:29 AM
My best friend just retired and spent the last 20 years teaching the Ford tech here in Phoenix and Cal.
started out as an apprentice in the Ford Heavy Truck system in 1988. stayed with them until the end .(not at the same dealership) even followed Sterling for a while but there really wasn't much point. :brownbag:

built my Ford truck collection for over 25 years, lost it all to fire in March 2013, moved an hour away in July 2014. new shop coming in the spring. new collection is getting rolling but no where to work on it yet. man its frustrating.:BangHead:

I have found some cool rare stuff but not the same :ghostface: .

I used to scrounge every Ford manual that was being replaced or disposed of with enthusiasm, even got them from competing dealerships as all mechanics appreciate manuals. I actually even scored my own set of 64-72 Ford Microfiece(spelling?) because a parts guy refused to throw them out.

on a happier note: (sorry about that)

60' x32' look like an old bank barn from the road, 2 bay doors on the end not visible from the road, lots of trees to hide the parts vehicles. :toothless: 3 levels if it works out as planned!

cheers James

Traveler
12-20-2014, 12:07 PM
Yes Voltmeter is normal.

On the smoke you see, it could just be the engine burning off condensation inside the crankcase. You need to take it out and run it hard and then check it. Every time you warm up an engine and shut it off, when it cools it draws moisture in the intake, the exhaust and crankcase. If you don't run the engine long enough or hard enough it just keeps accumulating more and more water in the oil.
You may also have some oil dilution from all the idle time or cranking during the no start condition, which will also be burnt out of the oil when you get it out on the road and work it.
So nothing to worry about.

IsaLandr
12-20-2014, 09:17 PM
Yes Voltmeter is normal.

On the smoke you see, it could just be the engine burning off condensation inside the crankcase. You need to take it out and run it hard and then check it. Every time you warm up an engine and shut it off, when it cools it draws moisture in the intake, the exhaust and crankcase. If you don't run the engine long enough or hard enough it just keeps accumulating more and more water in the oil.
You may also have some oil dilution from all the idle time or cranking during the no start condition, which will also be burnt out of the oil when you get it out on the road and work it.
So nothing to worry about.

Okay, great. We'll get it out on the road hopefully next week. I think we're close. It's running okay now, starts reliably, every time. I've discovered that this one won't idle properly if you start it before the wait to start light goes out. Crank it too soon, and it surges and lurches and won't idle, won't throttle up, etc. But shut it down, turn on, wait for the light to go out, then crank it, and it starts and idles properly.

The check engine light is on. It wasn't on before. Now it is. For a little while, it would come on and go out without any kind of rhyme or reason, no pattern. Now it's on steady and doesn't go out.

The manual CDs arrived today, but haven't had time to load them up yet. We're doing Yule celebration stuff this weekend, so the truck has to wait till next tuesday, probably.

IsaLandr
12-24-2014, 02:52 PM
Ladies and gentlemen, we have life! I have successfully restored the truck to operational status.

It is by no means perfect, and there is still a great deal left to do. But it is driveable, and that's the main thing.

Still lots of electrical issues still to be sorted out, but nothing critical. Mostly just piddling little comfort stuff. Overhead lights, door lights, that sort of thing. Probably have to replace the headliner too now, unfortunately.

Engine starts every time. Runs moderately well. Transmission shifts properly, clutch works. Brakes work okay, probably need to be bled. Parking brake not installed yet, and the Check Engine Light is on. All the gauges appear to work correctly. All the power windows and locks work.

Interestingly, the driver's power seat doesn't work properly. When I take it out and test it connected directly to a battery, it works fine. When I plug it into its own plugs in the floor, it does not work. The harness shows +12vdc at those connectors, though, and it passes a ground test. So I'm really not sure what's going on. Would really be helpful if that seat worked correctly.

Oh, and I will have to adjust the radiator downwards at some point, or possibly replace it with a different one. Not sure what all will need to be done, but the radiator on the stock mounts sits up too high, and the hood won't close over it. So that's going to have to be solved soon too. I really don't want to have to take the radiator out to deal with this.

Anyway, we're on the right road. It will be rockin' and rollin' down the highway soon.

Traveler
12-24-2014, 06:16 PM
That is great news, it is so nice to have something that runs and moves under it's own power.

IsaLandr
12-24-2014, 09:24 PM
So now we have something else to deal with...

Where the heater hoses connect up, there is a Y fitting. One set of hoses goes all the way back to the rear heater, one set goes to the dash heater box, and of course the last set goes directly to the engine. I'm sure everyone who's worked on one of these trucks knows the Y fitting I'm talking about.

One of those coolant lines broke off the fitting at the Y while we were going down the freeway today. Blew all the coolant out onto the road. Got it pulled off to a fueling station, and discovered the problem. The temp started rising and got all the way to the L in normal on the gauge. Definitely not a good sign.

But now I have to deal with it. I could not find the right size or type of fitting at the parts store. Where do we get those Y fittings?

Hopefully it did not damage the engine. I am a little concerned, but... it starts and runs and sounds okay, so I don't know. I guess we'll find out.

68Mercury250Ranger
12-25-2014, 01:26 AM
go to a heavy truck parts store or a hardware store, its either 5/8 or 3/4 hose. you can use brass fittings or steel pipe with pipe thread. lots of Teflon sealant on threads, liquid is nice but a little messier.

this one is just a little stumble compared to all the other hurdles you've cleared. if you didn't run off the guage you are probably fine, might be a good time to change the Tstat and the heater hoses while you are into it. its already 15 yrs old right?

IsaLandr
12-26-2014, 09:11 PM
go to a heavy truck parts store or a hardware store, its either 5/8 or 3/4 hose. you can use brass fittings or steel pipe with pipe thread. lots of Teflon sealant on threads, liquid is nice but a little messier.

this one is just a little stumble compared to all the other hurdles you've cleared. if you didn't run off the guage you are probably fine, might be a good time to change the Tstat and the heater hoses while you are into it. its already 15 yrs old right?

I still haven't found the replacement Y or even a T yet. It's definitely big, I was thinking 5/8, but it might actually be 3/4. I'll find one here eventually.

However, I was able to stretch the hose end over the remaining end of the Y fitting, and put a hose clamp on it. It's holding up pretty well for now, so it will work untill I get the right replacement part. It's not leaking, so that's a good sign.

Additionally, I found the coolant leak it already had when we got it. It's been leaking a small amount of coolant but I could not for the life of me see where it was coming from. Did some tightening of hose clamps, and it turns out the clamp that goes onto the top of the hose coming from the bottom of the engine to the radiator was not tightened. At all. Got that snugged up and guess what? No more leak.

Driving down the road, it stays between the N and O on normal for temps. That's pretty good. Every now and then it will rise up to the M, and then fall back down again. We're not sure what it's doing there, is it really getting warmer, or is something setting the gauge off? I don't know.

Also, whenever we go over about 65mph, the speedo starts bouncing all over the place anf fluctuating like mad. Get it down to 60 and it's nice and steady and smooth again. What's up with the speedo needle?

And lastly, I put a whole bottle of Napa Kool coolant additive in the radiator, along with two gallons of Napa Extended Life coolant, two gallons of Napa regular coolant, and a whole lot of water, which the counter clerk said is what is spec'd from Ford. I don't know, but that's what I put in it. The counterguy said Napa Kool has the anti-cavitation agent we need, but I could not find anything on the bottle to support that claim. I put it in anyway, but I have no idea if it's really what we need or not.

Traveler
12-27-2014, 11:24 AM
I don't know if the napa coolant has the anti cavitation additive or not, I would get a test strip to be sure.

The heater hose tee you should be able to get at most part stores. I was thinking they had flush kits or something that had tees in it if you are in a bind.

The speedo wobble, first thing to do is pull the speed sensor out of the rear end housing and clean it off and put it back in. It will probably fix it.

C_Luft
12-27-2014, 12:50 PM
Napa coolant filters vary on how much sca you want in them, but if you get fleet charge or my favorite, caterpillar extended life coolant is precharged with sca's. When I was last at the napa warehouse in Portland I picked up a coolant filter(no added sca) and mounting kit.

68Mercury250Ranger
12-29-2014, 02:33 AM
your temp guage is probably normal, its just showing you where the Tstat is opening and closing. I noticed that on my 96 F250 when I pulled my trailer with it.
might be a good time to replace all the coolant hoses, probably original. if you want them to last forever use silicone hose, but protect them wherever they touch anything or look like they might.(use the old hoses for the protection!):wavey:

IsaLandr
12-30-2014, 02:08 PM
Okay so we have a new symptom. The truck has been starting, running, driving just fine for the last few days. No problems at all. I should have known it was too good to be true.

This morning, the truck started just fine, idled fine, no problems, warmed up nicely and was running fairly smoothly if loudly. When she went to push the throttle pedal and drive away, nothing happened. No rev up, no response at all. Pedal goes to the floor, engine continues to idle.

I shut it down, restarted it, shut it down, restarted it, shut it down, unplugged the IVS and replugged it, restarted, shut down, restarted, wiggled the IVS plug around, and eventually, after a few minutes, we had throttle response again.

Why is it doing this, and what can I do to prevent this ever happening again? We were both almost late to work this morning while I dealt with this issue. I don't want this to be an ongoing problem that she's going to have to worry about every time she starts the truck. What is it, and how to I address it?

Traveler
12-30-2014, 03:55 PM
We had a similar problem it was the potentiometer, not the IVS. If we would basically stop the pedal to the floor a few times the check engine light would come on.
Restart the truck and all was well for a week or two.

This is where you need to be able to get codes to actually see what is not working.

IsaLandr
12-30-2014, 04:43 PM
We had a similar problem it was the potentiometer, not the IVS. If we would basically stop the pedal to the floor a few times the check engine light would come on.
Restart the truck and all was well for a week or two.

This is where you need to be able to get codes to actually see what is not working.

We had problems with the IVS at first. The pedal tab wasn't actually physically contacting the switch button, so it wasn't switching at all. There's no adjustment in how it's mounted, so I had to bend the mounting tab a little bit so that the tab on the pedal lever would press the switch down. Now it works properly.

What did you do to solve the problem permanently? New pedal assembly, new electronics on the existing pedal assembly? Clean up the existing electronics? We can't have this thing doing this kind of stuff, she needs it for work every day.

Our check engine light is already on. It wasn't on for the first couple weeks while I was working on the truck. But once I got the harness and dash put in and started re-assembling everything, the check engine light came on and hasn't gone off. The engine seems to be running okay, but I know that light needs to be checked.

What's the best way to get that read? I'm hearing that it's not a true OBD-II and so normal code readers won't read it. I don't have a code reader. We do have a Napa, O'Reill's, Autozone, and probably other places. Can I get the codes read at any of those?

Traveler
12-30-2014, 05:42 PM
Does it have an obdII plug in the harness? I can't remember but I thought you found one?
If so, any cheapo scanner will pull codes.

There is a TPS, throttle position sensor replacement. I would have to google the number but there is a cheaper part, where as you just get the potentiometer rather than changing out the whole pedal.

IsaLandr
12-30-2014, 07:48 PM
Does it have an obdII plug in the harness? I can't remember but I thought you found one?
If so, any cheapo scanner will pull codes.

There is a TPS, throttle position sensor replacement. I would have to google the number but there is a cheaper part, where as you just get the potentiometer rather than changing out the whole pedal.

It does have that ODB-II style port in it, but I've been told that it's not a standard ODB-II and had to be read by a ford-diesel-specific reader. I do not know enough about the whole thing to say more than what I've heard on this.

I'd like to change the whole pedal assembly out for the single plug model, it seems more streamlined. But I'll accept a reasonable repair solution for the existing setup in the meantime. I'll look into a replacement TPS, and see what I can find. Thanks.

Traveler
12-31-2014, 12:13 PM
Reading codes gets tricky now. If your PCM is truely a 94.5 and has not been re flashed then there should be a EEC test connecter under the hood. In the harness towards the back of the driver's side fender well. It is oddly shaped.

If the PCM has been reflashed the OBD II connector should work.

I think many parts stores read codes for free now. You can always run it by one and have them plug into it with their OBD II scanner and see if it will read codes or connect. If not, then you are looking for the EEC connector under the hood and have to blink the codes out.

IsaLandr
01-01-2015, 09:43 PM
Reading codes gets tricky now. If your PCM is truely a 94.5 and has not been re flashed then there should be a EEC test connecter under the hood. In the harness towards the back of the driver's side fender well. It is oddly shaped.

If the PCM has been reflashed the OBD II connector should work.

I think many parts stores read codes for free now. You can always run it by one and have them plug into it with their OBD II scanner and see if it will read codes or connect. If not, then you are looking for the EEC connector under the hood and have to blink the codes out.

Pretty sure the PCM has not been reflashed. Took it out of a truck that's been sitting in the scrapyard for quite some time. Don't they put some kind of a sticker or something on these to indicate they've been reflashed? This one still has the original 1995 sticker on it. The other PCM I have here, the one the PO put in the truck from a 1996 automatic, has been reflashed and has a sticker indicating this. How can I check to see if it's been reflashed, other than trying to connect up an OBD-II reader and seeing if it works?

I'll take it in sometime next week when we have more time, and see what the parts stores can do. This is podunk smalltown backwater USA, so we don't have a lot of options. There's O'Reilly's, NAPA, and CarQuest, and we just got our first Autozone a couple months ago. Oh, and there's a Baxter's too. Maybe one of those can figure out how to read it.

What does the EEC connector look like? There are probably half a dozen connectors under the hood that don't seem to be attached to anything.

Traveler
01-02-2015, 07:47 AM
Where they put the sticker varies, seen it on the door jamb, on the radiator support, on the inside of the hood, Not sure too many dealerships would go to the effort of putting it on the pcm, but I am sure some do.

There is no other way to tell that I know of except trying to hook it up.

The EEC connecter is shaped, and tested like the picture below.

IsaLandr
01-02-2015, 12:10 PM
Where they put the sticker varies, seen it on the door jamb, on the radiator support, on the inside of the hood, Not sure too many dealerships would go to the effort of putting it on the pcm, but I am sure some do.

There is no other way to tell that I know of except trying to hook it up.

The EEC connecter is shaped, and tested like the picture below.

Ah ha! I wondered what that was for! Yes, that connector is under there. Well, both of them. I couldn't find anything to attach that single connector to, and nothing appears to go to the six point connector, so... I just left them alone. But yeah, thanks to your pictures, I know what I'm looking for.

Do the parts stores have the right thing to connect to the EEC? Hang on, looking at the diagram you provided... I can read this on a digital multimeter. Okay. Maybe I can look into this tonight when the truck comes home. Thanks for the info!

IsaLandr
01-27-2015, 08:30 AM
Okay... new question. More than one, actually.

Less importantly, it looks like we have a power steering leak. I can't see where it's leaking from, or how much it might be leaking. I discovered the power steering reservoir was nearly empty last night, so I refilled it. I'll keep watching it to see how fast it's losing power steering fluid. Where are the most likely places to look for a leak on this?

More importantly... The truck has developed an oil leak. More accurately, it had an oil leak when we got it, but it is becoming serious enough to warrant attention. We put between 250 and 300 miles on it a week, and it's losing between one and two quarts each week. Underneath, it's slinging a lot of oil off the ring gear on the flywheel. The oil is dripping down between the flywheel and the back of the engine, but it only does it while the engine is running.

What are the most likely culprits for this leak? Rear main seal? Something else? This is my first powerstroke, I don't know what I should be looking for. It's hard to see around the back of the engine, so I can't really tell where the oil is coming from. one or two quarts a week seems pretty significant, we really need to get this sorted out as quickly as possible.

Traveler
01-27-2015, 08:59 AM
Power Steering leak. Have to wash it off and watch it. It could be a hose, the steering box, or pump. One is just as common as the other. Hopefully just a hose, or even hose clamp.

Engine oil. Coming from the back of the block is not a good sign, it could be the rear main seal. Look first at the turbo and in the valley of the engine. If that is dry, then check the valve covers. If that is dry then it is probably the rear main seal.
If the valley is wet. Grab a flashlight, start the engine and start watching for drips. Could be dripping of the turbo. Could be around the high pressure pump at the front and running back through the valley and off the back.

IsaLandr
01-28-2015, 12:40 AM
Power Steering leak. Have to wash it off and watch it. It could be a hose, the steering box, or pump. One is just as common as the other. Hopefully just a hose, or even hose clamp.

Engine oil. Coming from the back of the block is not a good sign, it could be the rear main seal. Look first at the turbo and in the valley of the engine. If that is dry, then check the valve covers. If that is dry then it is probably the rear main seal.
If the valley is wet. Grab a flashlight, start the engine and start watching for drips. Could be dripping of the turbo. Could be around the high pressure pump at the front and running back through the valley and off the back.

The power steering is much less of a concern. It's not a huge leak and is more an inconvenience than anything else. I'd like to sort it out, but it's not a pressing priority.

The engine oil, now... That's more than just an inconvenience. I've been reading up on various places these things can leak. High pressure oil pump, low pressure oil pump, rear main seal, valve covers, electrical plug seals, turbo... I've read that there are a couple of threaded plugs at both ends of the oil rails that drive the injectors, and that those are often the culprit for leaks. Do I have that right? Are there other potential sources'

I'm afraid it really is the rear main seal, which means into the shop, pull the tranny and transfer case, blah blah blah. Big dollar signs in the eyes of the shop that sees this coming. I don't want to go there if I don't have to. I'd rather narrow it down and hopefully find something else. Hopefully it's something simpler and less expensive to fix.

Traveler
01-28-2015, 10:59 AM
You are on the right track.
Check the valley of the engine first. If it is dry, Then you know to be looking on the back of the block.
Take a mirror and look at the back of the head, valve cover area.
Leaks, gravity pulls them down, so always follow it to the top.

IsaLandr
02-16-2015, 06:06 PM
Annnnnnnd... I'm back. One thing at a time. Still trying to read the codes out of the PCM. Using the EEC-IV connector isn't working. I have a test light, it just lights solid when touched to any of the posts in the plug. Doesn't matter where I jump the STI plug, I always get a solid light on the test light. No blinking. Key on, key off, engine running, engine off. Doesn't seem to matter. Solid light, no blinking. So... I still have no codes.

What should I try next? Is there a way to get the codes from the Generic Scan Tool port (That's what the official Ford Electrical and Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual EVTM for this year calls the ODB-II port under the dash)? Can I use the test light in some way on that port? What else can I try?

Traveler
02-19-2015, 08:30 AM
Maybe someone else can verify, but I don't think there should be power at the test port with the key off.
With no change state of the power supply the ECM will not be triggered to flash out the codes when jumped.

IsaLandr
02-19-2015, 10:46 AM
Maybe someone else can verify, but I don't think there should be power at the test port with the key off.
With no change state of the power supply the ECM will not be triggered to flash out the codes when jumped.

Perhaps I should clarify. It's not flashing at all. Key on, key off, engine on, engine off, no flashing. No matter which contact I jump to, or which contact I put the test light on. If it lights at all, it's a solid light, or no light at all.

If I jump from the STI to the SIG RET, and then connect test light from battery positive to STO, and then turn the key on, it flashes briefly with the Check Engine Light in the dash, and then both go out and stay out. No further flashes. Just that one flash as the key is turned on, and then nothing.

IsaLandr
03-06-2015, 02:56 PM
I suppose it's time for an update. Things have been progressing, and regressing, as can be expected. I still have not solved the Check Engine Light issue. We are still unable to read codes to find out what's going on. An ongoing problem, one that will be eventually solved, possibly with a newer PCM flashed with OBD-II.

Anyway, on to current progress. I have managed to reconnect the overhead courtesy lights as well as the door courtesy lights, and also got the rear top courtesy light working. The alarm bell dings properly with the key in the ignition and the door open, or with the lights on and the door open, just like it should.

I ripped out most of the ridiculous wiring crap that Car Toys put in there for the stereo and alarm system. I'm still tracing out the alarm stuff, so that's not been replaced yet. However, I was able to tap the aftermarket stereo into the factory harness and get that all working properly. The overhead CB now works, too, though it still needs the antennae and cable tuned correctly. The rear amp and speakers are connected and working, as well.

Still have not reconnected and replaced the rear air suspension controls. That's not a priority so I haven't really focused on it. Still need to get the third brake light in the bronco top working, but I'm not sure where to even start with that. The headliner needs replacing, and so does the carpeting because of where the previous owner cut the carpet around the transmission tunnel.

Over the last weekend I replaced the water pump on the powerstroke, it started leaking rather a lot from the fan shaft. That was entirely too fun. NOT. I was absolutely unable to get the clutch fan off the front, I had to take it to a shop, even they had trouble getting the bloody thing off. They finally did it, though. And after a couple false starts getting the wrong parts, I was able to get the new water pump on, hoses replaced, new thermostat and temp sensor, coolant refilled, and back up and running. After a single slow leak on the bottom hose fix last night, I think we're good to go on that part of it.

We've pretty much established that the oil leak is the rear main seal, it will be going into the shop in a week or two to have that fixed. I just don't have the tools and equipment anymore to deal with removing the transmission and transfer case to do the job myself. I think while we have it open we're going to swap the dual mass flywheel for a single mass and just have done with the whole thing.

That's where we're at with it.

Traveler
03-06-2015, 04:15 PM
Sorry totally forgot about answer the OBD I question and getting codes.
So the light is not stuck on. Didn't you have a newer PCM already? One you got out of a junk yard truck with the harness?
You can always swap that and see what happens.

68Mercury250Ranger
03-07-2015, 10:56 PM
while you have the flywheel off, have a good look at the oil gallery plugs. have seen them leak on the T444E in the IHC medium trucks several times, had to redo a coworker's job for them when he missed that during a rear main seal/clutch job.

he was a little embarrassed but the boss gave me the job second time around.

keep at it , you know the truck inside/out when you are done. :rockon

IsaLandr
03-08-2015, 04:41 AM
Sorry totally forgot about answer the OBD I question and getting codes.
So the light is not stuck on. Didn't you have a newer PCM already? One you got out of a junk yard truck with the harness?
You can always swap that and see what happens.

I do have a newer PCM, it came with the truck. The PCM that's in it now I got from a junkyard. The one that came with the truck is for an automatic, and is a different year. That shouldn't matter, but it bothered me, so I got a replacement. The one that's in it now came from a 1995 F350 manual transmission 4x4, and tested good, so I know it's the right PCM. I verified the model and code before I put it in.

I'm thinking that what I really need to do is get the PCM reflashed with a modern firmware that is OBD-II compliant, and that should make everything a lot easier. I was planning on doing that down the road a ways anyway. The automatic PCM that I have may or may not already be flashed OBD-II compliant, and I am seriously thinking about swapping it back in. However, there's a catch...

This is a 1991 truck. The 1991 PCM only has a hole in the firewall large enough for the pin interface. To remove it, it comes out from inside the cab, there's a release lever on the mounting bracket to unplug and pull it out. Starting in 1992, the PCM slides out through the hole in the firewall, into the engine bay, and the mount for it is entirely covered up by the steering column support.

This truck being a 1991, has a 1991 PCM mount, so it has to be pulled from inside. But if you will recall, it also has a 1996 dashboard and 1995 wiring harness. That includes the more modern 1995 steering column mount which will have to be removed to get to the PCM. I'm not real keen on removing the entire dashboard so I can remove the steering column support, just so I can get at the PCM. I will if I have to, but I would really rather not.

So, if the PCM can be reflashed in the truck, that's really what I would rather do. Not ideal, but certainly better than having to go through the wiring and dash and steering crap all over again if I can avoid it. Now that I've got almost all of the electrical sorted and fixed, the last thing I want to do is tear it all apart again.

IsaLandr
03-08-2015, 04:50 AM
while you have the flywheel off, have a good look at the oil gallery plugs. have seen them leak on the T444E in the IHC medium trucks several times, had to redo a coworker's job for them when he missed that during a rear main seal/clutch job.

he was a little embarrassed but the boss gave me the job second time around.

keep at it , you know the truck inside/out when you are done. :rockon

This is certainly on the to-do list. Once everything is off the back of the engine, I want the whole thing inspected. If the dual-mass flywhel is in good condition, it may stay. I don't want to keep it, but money is a little tight right now because I got laid off last month and haven't found new work yet. Coupled with the unexpected expense of having to do the water pump, and now knowing what the rear main seal is going to cost... yeah, this is going to hurt. So I need to save some pennies here and there if I can.

That being said, the stuff that absolutely needs to be done, is going to be done. If that includes the flywheel being swapped out for a single mass, then it will get done. If it needs a new clutch pack, that will be done too. I don't want to have to go back in there anytime soon. So we'll hit every point we can, that we can afford to do, while it's already open.

Maybe if I'm lucky I can get the mechanic to hook the 4x4 indicators and reverse light circuit for me. And maybe even figure out why the trailer harness plug doesn't work.

And then, we'll do something about that ridiculous downpipe that ends near the back of the transfer case. I don't know why it's like that, but it's high time we got that fixed properly. Along with a shortening list of other things that need attention.

You got it right, I'm fairly quickly learning pretty much everything about this truck. I've learned that it came from the factory with 4.10 gears and limited slip in the rear axle. It still has both. Front differential is open, but eventually we'll fix that. Maybe pull the limited slip out of the 4.10 D60FF in my 1972 TravelAll. It should be a direct bolt-in, and it's not like I'm ever going to fix that TravelAll anyway.

IsaLandr
03-15-2015, 05:02 PM
New symptoms. It cranks but won't start. Sometimes it'll catch and almost start, and then just cranks without starting. White smoke from the exhaust, and the "fuel filter" light comes on while cranking. The fuel bowl is full, and that filter is less than a month old. Sometimes I can almost get it to start, and here and there it will start to run for a second and then dies. It cranks strong and fast, but just won't start. Oil level is good, fuel tank is 3/4 full, we just put fuel in it yesterday, from the same Chevron we almost always use.

The "wait to start" light seems to be staying on longer than usual before going out, too. I might be imagining that, though. I never actually timed it before, so I can't be certain. It seems like it's staying on longer, anyway. Not sure if that makes any difference or not. I've read about issues with the fuel heater causing no start problems, but I don't know if that might be something to consider in this case. I really don't know what to look at or where to start, in trying to get this running again.

Thoughts, advice, suggestions? Really need this thing back up by tomorrow morning if possible. Do I need to look at fuses, fusible links, relays, anything like that?

natterre
03-15-2015, 10:11 PM
Does the tachometer move while cranking? If not then the can shaft position sensor may be out preventing it from starting. Just a thought.

IsaLandr
03-15-2015, 11:07 PM
Does the tachometer move while cranking? If not then the can shaft position sensor may be out preventing it from starting. Just a thought.

I thought to check that during my troubleshooting... the tach does operate correctly while cranking. The only change from normal is that the "fuel filter" indicator comes on during cranking. I took out the filter, it's clean, and the fuel bowl was full, and the fuel looked and smelled okay.

After dinking around a bit, it started normally, and is working properly now. I suspect this may be an issue with the glow plug system. Possibly the glow plug relay is going bad, or possibly one of the fuses or relays under the hood in the power box behind the air cleaner.

The truck is running more or less correctly now. We'll see what happens in the morning when she goes to take it to work.

IsaLandr
06-06-2015, 03:45 AM
How about an update? It's been a couple months, and some things have come full circle.

Some weeks ago, I replaced the glow plug relay. How that thing was even working at all is anybody's guess. The top pole had broken off and was just sitting on the contact. Bump it wrong, and no contact, no start. No wonder sometimes it wouldn't start. Got that replaced, no more starting woes. I think the driver's side rear glowplug connector is loose or damaged or dirty or something, I'm going to have to dig into that sometime soon.

Last Saturday, the shop finished putting in a new clutch, rear main seal, power steering high pressure hose and fittings, and fuel separator. It went in just for the rear main seal, but... well, things happen, and it needed more. I was expecting to go ahead and replace the clutch and flywheel anyway, since it was apart and no extra charge for labour to do that, just the cost of the flywheel and clutch. The power steering and fuel separator were something of a surprise.

Well, it now has an upgraded Valair clutch and single mass flywheel. The dual mass was toast. Mechanic said it was right at the point where catastrophic failure is the next event, so we got it in at the right time. I went with a slightly uprated clutch from the stock rating, seemed a good option. It feels SO GOOD to have that dual mass piece of crap out of there. The new clutch has a more aggressive feel to it, is grabbier and more positive, with WAY more pedal movement before it engages/disengages, yet has a much much lighter pedal than what it replaced. So much more comfortable to drive now.

So now, it no longer leaks oil or power steering fluid, no longer leaks fuel, and only slightly leaks coolant. Still tracking that one down.

Next on the agenda for upgrades will be a reprogrammed PCM, possibly with one of those multi-mode programmers; Considering doing a replacement on the glow plugs, and possibly doing the injectors. That will have to wait a few months though, this clutch replacement has put a serious dent in our finances.

Still sorting out the wiring and dash, but I'm getting closer. Also still need to figure out a permanent mounting for the steering column support under the dash. And I guess it's probably time to finish up the exhaust. Oh, and our wolf hybrid decided to eat the headliner, so now we have to replace that too.

It's coming along! +)

IsaLandr
08-11-2017, 05:34 PM
Wow! I can't believe it's been over two years since I updated this thread! So... how about an update?

Some things have not changed. We still haven't fixed the air conditioning, or the headliner, the leather seats aren't in yet, the dash still isn't finished, the electrical is still partly a mess, the trim still isn't fixed, and the interior carpet and insulation still hasn't been put back in. There's probably a laundry list of other things that still aren't done.

BUT... it does run. In the last year it has gotten two new batteries, a new starter, a new alternator, new battery cables, new headights, an all new front grille and headlight/sidemarker assembly, new stock front bumper, the two piece flywheel was replaced with a very nice upgraded clutch and flywheel package from Valair, replaced the power steering hoses, new serpentine belt and tensioner pulley, new water pump, new glow plugs and relay, new valve cover gaskets and wiring harnesses, and some other minor bits and bobs here and there. Really, we've done a ton of work to this thing, but darned if I can remember all of it right now. In the three years we've had it now, it seems like there's always something that needs doing, and I just don't even try to keep track anymore.

Truck runs solid, transmission shifts properly, though it has worn synchros from second to third on the upshift and sometimes that grinds, but it's not a major issue. Overall, everything important works the way it should. We drove it down to Arizona and back, through Oregon and California then back up through Utah and Idaho, made the trip with no issues. We had no problems at all, and we put probably close to 4500 miles on it in about two weeks, so yeah. It will be repeating that trip this September. It's a heck of a cruiser when it runs right.

The only issue now is that the check engine light is still on, it appears to be a faulty injector. We will be addressing that issue in the next couple of weeks. Overall while it still has a LOT of work left to do, it's in pretty good shape. We're hoping to get the remaining dash and electrical taken care of, along with fixing the air conditioning, before the trip to Arizona. We'll see how that works out.

And on a related note, because I was unable to resist the temptation, I have now also purchased a 1993 Bronco to go with the Centurion. This is relevant because the 1993 Bronco body has been dropped onto a shortened lifted 1997 F350 powerstroke manual transmission truck chassis. It needs a lot of mechanical work, and the suspension job was a butchery, but... bronco on diesel one ton chassis? yeah, I'm there. The 7.3 Powerstroke actually runs really well, but it blows a LOT of blue smoke. Diagnosis points to blown O rings on the injectors. We've only had the thing 2 weeks tomorrow, so I haven't had a chance to really tear into it yet. But it's on my to-do list, along with the other stuff the C350 needs.

But... having both a C350 and a B350 parked on the lawn next to each other, and next to the M923? and all of them all-wheel-drive and diesel? I call that WINNING!

obspsd
08-12-2017, 08:52 AM
Sounds good! What color is the 1993 Bronco?

IsaLandr
08-22-2017, 12:51 AM
Sounds good! What color is the 1993 Bronco?

It's sort of a silvery grey-ish colour, with a couple black pinstripes. Somebody put a relatively cheap paint job over the original finish. It used to be that odd puke green colour that only the Forestry Service or Border Patrol uses, so we're pretty sure it came from one of those agencies. The new paint job isn't nice enough to care about, but not bad enough to actively do anything about, so it's about what it should be for something I intend to abuse.

The interior is actually pretty nice, it's a little dirty but not stained or greasy, just like dust and that. Should clean up nicely. Body is mostly straight, no dents or major scratches other than some minor thing behind the driver's door window frame on the B pillar. Somebody who had it before us did a hack job on all the fender wells, I don't know if I care enough to fix it. One more thing that gives me absolutely no reason whatsoever to care about the body or the paint.

I figure eventually, when I un-butcher the suspension and get it off those ridiculous 40" tires and onto something more reasonable like 33" or 35" or so, then maybe I'll make or buy a set of fender flares to cover up the hacked up fenders, but for now, it really doesn't matter. I've got a serious job ahead of me, un-hacking the suspension into something that isn't A: illegal as Hel and B: death on wheels.

BUT! and this is the key to the whole mess, it's a fairly straight fairly solid 1993 Bronco body sitting on a shortened 1997 F350 Powerstroke 5-speed chassis. If you ignore the fender hackery and the suspension butchery and the ludicrous 40" tires, it's a win no matter how you look at it.

IsaLandr
06-26-2020, 02:49 PM
It has been a few years, I know, but I'm back with an update. Not much of one, but something anyway.

We in the process of restoring operation of the Air Conditioning. Both front and rear. It's proving to be both less costly and less complicated than originally anticipated. Should have an update on that, whether successful or not, in a weekend or two. Just waiting on a couple of parts and a case of refrigerant. With the pandemic thing, shipping is slow and that's holding us back a bit.

At the same time, I'm working on putting the rear air suspension back in working order. That is more complicated than I thought it would be, and I don't like how it was done originally. So, still working out how I'm going to deal with it so that they work the way I want and aren't as ridiculously overcomplicated as the original install was. Will update on that later as well.

Still a lot to do, on the rest of the truck. It's almost like it deteriorates faster than we can repair the original issues it had when we got it. Funny how that works, eh? Lots to do, but we are getting after it. One step at a time.

Finally got the check engine light to go out. It's gotten new temp sensors, new cam sensor, new ICP sensor, we're now on our fourth water pump and second thermostat, fifth glow plug relay, second starter, second set of battery cables, and second set of batteries. We've also replaced both front power window motors (man those go up and down fast and smooth now!), and are researching a similar fix for the tailgate glass.

Eventually it will get a new set of injectors, but that's quite a ways down the road, after all the other comfort and reliability issues are resolved.

The birth of our daughter 16 months ago (and a rollover accident in a different car a year before her birth which shattered my left arm and has still not recovered) has kind of interfered with a lot of the progress on this truck. BUT... we're finally getting back on it.