View Full Version : 89 C350 Started the Interior

11-02-2014, 09:28 PM
So, my dash lights went out some time ago, just realized a couple weeks ago that this also means I lost my tail lights and have been driving around in the dark without them. Lucky I didn't get a ticket. Fuses keep popping, so I started looking at the messy centurion wiring. There are wires clamped on and spliced in all over the place. I couldn't find anything causing the fuse to blow so I decided this is my opportunity to strip the interior, find the problem and spruce it up while I am at it. Not that the rusted roof and pillars don't need attention too! I got the dash out, and this was not nearly as easy as it was on my 80 Bronco.

Now is when you find the interesting things that were left behind when they put the truck together, like the front and rear fuel tank selector. this is still wired in and was shoved behind the dash just in front of the fuse block.

Also, removing the dash is a lot more work that what the Chiltons leads you to believe.

Once I got the dash loose the right side went down and it levered the left side up over the steering column and busted my windshield. That one required several deep breaths which allowed me enough time to rethink my idea of cutting the dash in half and throwing it away.


I'll spend some quality time with the wiring, pull out the seats and the rest of the interior and strip it down to metal before bringing it back up.

I have a couple questions for anyone willing...

why does my 89 C350 not have the kick panel air vents like my 88, 80, 79, 78 Bronco's had? Is it because it is a diesel?

What is the control module in the left kick panel where that air vent would have been?

I'm open to suggestions on sound deadening materials for the floor/doors. I lined my 78 with self adhesive asphalt roll roofing. I put 2 layers down. Read online it was cheaper alternative to dynomat, but not having anything to compare it to, the 78 with dual glass-packs on a 460 was extremely loud.


11-03-2014, 09:37 AM
Sorry about the windshield, that stuff happens and it sucks. We had just put a new windshield in the kids bronco, putting the wiper arms back on he leaned on the windshield and broke it. urethane was not even set yet. So we feel your pain.

Not sure about the vents, I can't picture them. Maybe it has something to do with the cab being a truck and not a bronco?
The module could be transmission controller?

For sound deadening. We used the peel and seal, found it at lowes. It is only like 6 or 8" wide, has shinny backing. It is a lot easier to work with than the other roofing materials. It conforms better, sticks better. You will probably want 2 layers on the firewall and front floor boards with that diesel. Be sure the surface is dry, whatever moisture is there it will be trapped there once the material is down.
We have had mixed results putting it inside the doors. For best results you need to heat it up and soften the adhesive so it will stick better to the vertical surfaces.

12-08-2014, 07:37 PM
My son and I got the middle and rear benches out, pulled the trim and rear side pannels as well as the rear carpet and all the headliner. Photo's added in my 4 Door album. I had help from my son and "help" from Dozer. The Bronco triangle behind the rear doors was packed with fiberglass insulation from floor to ceiling. The headliner was also lined with fiberglass. I used a wire to fish out the insulation from the walls. I had to pull from the bottom and from the top to get it all out. Everything in the walls was soaked and the mold and mildew was quite strong. after disconnecting my dome lights and the one working door light on the driver-side rear, I got my "dash" and tail lights back. At least I have narrowed that down since that was the problem that started me on this process. Sure glad I love my ugly truck. I could understand how it could be more than the average joe could handle after seeing how they pieced it together.


Side note, I had some hard starting a couple weeks ago. Turns out my battery cables were cooked due to a weak battery. I went through 4 parts places including the local Ford Truck Parts Supplier before finding an aftermarket replacement for the dual battery cable through Napa. It was not cheap, at I think 137.00, but it is a thicker gauge than the stock cable. I ran a new ground from the starting battery as well. This took care of the problem. No more slow cranking.

Another positive, while I was spending quality time on my back looking up at the starter, I kept pushing this heat shielded cable out of my way, finally fed up with it, I said what the heck is this thing? Low and behold, 3 years later and after the P.O. told me there wasn't one, it is the block heater, YAY!!

12-09-2014, 09:34 AM
That fiberglass insulation is a mess and horrible today, but I can imagine it was the best they could come up with when the truck was built. Getting all that dried out will probably help the truck smell so much better.
One thing I have read, and have done is take new fiberglass insulation, put it in a garbage bag before putting it in. It helps it stay dry which cuts down on odors, as well as fills the cavity and reduces noise. Just don't fill the void too tight or it will end up holding moisture against the panels, make smaller bags and allow them to "float" in there.