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Audra
01-28-2011, 09:28 AM
And so it began, the story of the little Centurion that could...
:rockon:rockon:rockon

One day a couple of Centurion fanatics were minding their business when they found an old online ad.


93 ford centurion 5.0 302 4 door bronco 4 sale it has 131000 miles on it it is a daily driver it has some minor trannsmission problems it leaks anti freeze when it gets hotruns good may need fuel injector cleaningroof needs alittle work u can see it in the pic has clean tittle it has flow master dual exhuast sounds good this is a classic and there were only 500 made needs alittle tlc but its a good truck asking 2000 obo make an offer

So they thought hey, lets call the guy and see if it is still for sale so we can post it on our website.

He answers the call in disbelief. He hadn't had an ad up for over 6 months. What a strange thing the internet is. Fact of the matter is that the truck is sitting in the driveway, the transmission is now completely shot, and no one is ever gonna buy this thing. $900 and shes yours. I was almost afraid to ask the next question, hows the rust? "Rust? we don't get rust on our vehicles. Strange thing the roof going but no rust whatsoever on the underneath." "Sold."

What did we just do? We just bought a little half ton 302 bronco. With a bad transmission. The kid was right about one thing, this is a truck that most would pass by. A single look at the roof and the truck was probably doomed to a crusher soon.

We see it differently, this is a gem. A rare rust-free opportunity. While waiting for her to arrive by transport we discussed many options. Maybe this could be a nice body for one of the other trucks, maybe this would be a great opportunity to swap in a small diesel engine, because we could not imagine owning a 302 powered 2wd truck. We decided to get it here and figure out what we wanted to do with her. To see it before making any decisions one direction or another.

For sale picture:

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/847618/fullsize/45197541-(1).jpg

Waiting for the transport was hard, but we had cell phone pics to keep us dreaming:

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/847633/fullsize/0112011420a.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/847638/fullsize/0112011421c.jpg


So the big day came and I had a text, "He just dropped her off". I couldn't drive over quick enough. What a thrill. What had 900 bucks brought home? Here is the day 1 pictures with no quirk or sad circumstance left unvisited. There were so many surprises:

https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/847619/fullsize/p1000683.jpg

omg glued on hood scoops :laugh2: Those will be going soon ;)

https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/847620/fullsize/p1000684.jpg

https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/847622/fullsize/p1000686.jpg

Flame trim lol

To our very first and immediate surprise we have a stretched bronco. There are two welded seams on the roof and the roof is one of the rarer flat roofs. Wow!

https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/847623/fullsize/p1000687.jpg

https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/847625/fullsize/p1000689.jpg

https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/847655/fullsize/p1000711.jpg

https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/847658/fullsize/p1000714.jpg

https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/847665/fullsize/p1000721.jpg

https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/847666/fullsize/p1000722.jpg

https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/847667/fullsize/p1000723.jpg

https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/847669/fullsize/p1000725.jpg

https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/847670/fullsize/p1000726.jpg

You know I think the roof looks a lot worse than it is. This should be a pretty easy fix for us. :xyxthumbs:

Best part is that the water/rust damage is completely limited to roof. It had not yet rusted out downwards:

https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/847707/fullsize/p1000752.jpg

So next we opened her up and to be expected we're gonna have to gut the interior.

https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/847626/fullsize/p1000690.jpg

https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/847628/fullsize/p1000692.jpg

https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/847630/fullsize/p1000694.jpg

https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/847639/fullsize/p1000695.jpg

https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/847641/fullsize/p1000697.jpg

https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/847676/fullsize/p1000729.jpg

https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/847705/fullsize/p1000750.jpg

https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/847708/fullsize/p1000753.jpg

https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/847710/fullsize/p1000755.jpg

https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/847712/fullsize/p1000756.jpg

Interesting running boards. I never saw another set like them but this is right after the body style change:

https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/847663/fullsize/p1000719.jpg

https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/847682/fullsize/p1000736.jpg

https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/847683/fullsize/p1000737.jpg

https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/847684/fullsize/p1000738.jpg

https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/847685/fullsize/p1000739.jpg

https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/847686/fullsize/p1000740.jpg

The running boards are wider and thicker than our normal ones. It is lighted with leds and has a rough finish to the bottom of it. Crudely formed compared to the mass produced running boards that came shortly after.

I need to run the vin. This was sold as a 93, but the owner's manual and other little quirks would suggest this vehicle was bought from Ford in 1992. I bet it took them that long to figure out what they were going to do and how they were going to customize the new body style. Also explains the double seams compared to the normal single seam.

Audra
01-28-2011, 09:39 AM
Now the challenge, we're gonna give this 6 months and we bet with a $1000 budget she will be completely restored :xyxthumbs:

SMOOTH
01-28-2011, 01:47 PM
I think it's fair to say that I think I hate you both a little right now.

Yup, thought about it, I do, I hate you both a little right now.

Enjoy your great find, but it's gonna cost you a little hate right now.

MoMo

Dman
01-28-2011, 04:13 PM
:laugh2: x7, good luck

Audra
01-28-2011, 06:42 PM
Thanks guys, I am pretty excited about a new project. Please don't hate me, just saving one from the crusher :patriot::beer

Steve83
01-28-2011, 10:32 PM
I'll give you $1500 right now. :xyxwave:


BTW
What transporter do you use, and how much does that run?

Audra
01-29-2011, 04:57 PM
I FOUND IT!!!!!

I KNEW I recognized this truck. It sold on Ebay 5-6 years ago and we posted it on this website. I confirmed the stickers, inside drop down, Roof antenna, side badging (non centurion), dual exhaust, funky runningboards, and other small things no other truck would have.

So hey $6900 back in 2005, man she has gone a long ways.
http://www.fourdoorbronco.com/board/showthread.php?1193-1993-nbsp-Ford-F-150-nbsp-CENTURION-4D

THEN:
http://www.fourdoorbronco.com/board/attachment.php?attachmentid=1159&stc=1&d=1173481635

http://www.fourdoorbronco.com/board/attachment.php?attachmentid=1160&stc=1&d=1173481635


http://www.fourdoorbronco.com/board/attachment.php?attachmentid=1162&stc=1&d=1173481635


http://www.fourdoorbronco.com/board/attachment.php?attachmentid=1161&stc=1&d=1173481635

Most damning piece of evidence? The truck still says kelly on the paint where they ripped off the badge :Pickle:

https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/848342/fullsize/p1000766e.jpg

AND the phone number from the Ebay ad matches the car dealership sticker on the back of my Centurion. Koala T cars in Florida. Woohooo a match! :Pickle::Pickle::Pickle::Pickle:


Koala T Cars Inc
Cape Canaveral, FL 32920
321-639-0022


Please make sure you are committed and willing to purchase this item before you submit a bid. If you would like further information please contact me by phone at 321 639 0022 , 321 960 4421 or e-mail at bigblock65impala@aol.com before bidding. BUYER PAYS ANY AND ALL TAXES, TAGS, TITLE FEES, AND SHIPPING . I have sold 20 cars and trucks on e-bay over the last 4 years check my feedback and before you bid, Thank you for l@@king.

(well and the vin matches the ebay ad lol)

Awesome to see what she can become again!

Clydesdale
01-29-2011, 06:47 PM
is it 2wd? kinda has an ethnic prededication in the ebay pics.

Dman
01-29-2011, 07:40 PM
I think you have a real winner. I can't explain it, but something or maybe it's everything combined just really makes this one stand apart. Hood scopes included ha ha. Hope you guys can keep some of it's personalality as you bring it back to life. Good luck and keep us posted as you go.

Audra
01-29-2011, 11:45 PM
I think you have a real winner. I can't explain it, but something or maybe it's everything combined just really makes this one stand apart. Hood scopes included ha ha. Hope you guys can keep some of it's personalality as you bring it back to life. Good luck and keep us posted as you go.

Thank you so much, I really am fond of the littlest Centurion we own. She is such a cute little thing.

Gonna definitely let her keep some personality, I can't garuntee it'll be the hood scoops though :drinkbud

She is just 2wd.

Downloaded the cellphone, we have delivery pics!

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/848459/fullsize/dscn1629.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/848448/fullsize/dscn1628.jpg

(This is where he got stuck in the driveway :lolup: )

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/848464/fullsize/20110124_140925_762.jpg


The truck got here safely, but the tire came off of the rim when being loaded in NC :doh

So first thing we had to do was swap another roller on her. We used Creative Rides for the transport and would recommend them. No troubles. The driver didn't speak much English, and he got stuck in the driveway trying to deliver it :scratchhe but it got here safely.

We called and spoke with every company recommended to us and after a week of no one being able to come up with a pickup date we called these guys up. They had the truck picked up literally the next day. Wow.

Traveler
01-29-2011, 11:49 PM
First mod was remove the CB antenna,
Second mod was remove the Bent front bumper. Truck already looks better.

So we started checking it over. Found it was low on engine coolant, we started adding coolant and it ran out as fast as we put it in.
Being in NC apparently they didn't feel they need any antifreeze. Luckily the Freeze plugs did their job.
So It looks like the freeze plug got pushed out on the driver's side. The one behind the motor mount. So 73 cents later, new freeze plug is in.
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/848440/fullsize/dscn1636.jpg

While the motor was jacked up we started filling the cooling system again, only now it started running out the passenger side of the block. LOL
2 missing over there. So another $1.46.
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/848444/fullsize/dscn1639.jpg
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/848453/fullsize/dscn1643.jpg

Filled it up, it held for now. Thawed out the battery, charged it. Added 5 gallons of gas and fired it up.
Now the heater core is shooting coolant out inside the truck, apparently the Ice got to that as well.
Bypassed the heater core, fire it up again.
Purrs like a kitten. I had forgotten how smooth the 5.0 is compared to the 5.8. It sounds really healthy so next is the transmission.

broncojohn460
01-30-2011, 01:07 AM
being it needs a trany ya''ll should find a 4 wheel parts truck and make it into a 4x4 you guys stole it for $900.00 very nice find :beer

frenchy8
01-30-2011, 01:39 AM
"To our very first and immediate surprise we have a stretched bronco. There are two welded seams on the roof and the roof is one of the rarer flat roofs. Wow"

Hi guys, I think if you look under it you will notice 2 welded seams just like the roof has. Reason being that ford never made a crewcab 1/2 ton 2 or 4wd or a 2wd bronco. So in order to make a 4 door 2wd 1/2 ton, they took a 1/2 ton truck added the rear door section and then added the bronco rear to that hence the no rib flat roof with 2 seams to cover over with bondo. Looks like a great project and great price.

frenchy

4doorbronko
01-30-2011, 02:53 AM
So it froze up on the trip to cornland?

Being an early model change conversion there may be a few "surprizes" in store.
Pink insulation's a given.

Frenchy, most C-150's started life as extended cabs, it's rare to see a Centurion stretched Bronco.
Most Bronco stretches were done by Magnum.

I find it hard to believe I had nothing to say about the stick on scoops back in the '05 post.... they are vile and goofy...... :bigsmile:

I think you should slam it, stick some dually fenders on and some big fatty tires in the back........... :fire:

JohnDeStef
01-30-2011, 09:16 AM
I think you should slam it, stick some dually fenders on and some big fatty tires in the back........... :fire:

X2!!!

:clap Congrats yous guys!
Hopefully soon you can start getting some of your money back.

Offer tours, for a nominal fee, of the first, unofficial, FourDoorBronco museum.

:transport009:

Bronco Biff
01-30-2011, 09:29 AM
Very cool!! I seems like it would be a killer kruiser...

Audra
01-30-2011, 10:36 AM
Looks like a great project and great price.

frenchy

Thanks! I'm pretty darn excited, today should be the first interior tear out and dropping the transmission. Gotta finish this bowl of cereal and we're out of here!


being it needs a trany ya''ll should find a 4 wheel parts truck and make it into a 4x4 you guys stole it for $900.00 very nice find :beer

I've considered it, but a4x4 parts truck is $$$. And we already own a 96 c150 4x4. And I honestly like that this one is different. I wont sit around and wish I had a 351 or a 460 in it cause heck I already have that in other centurions. I'll just love her for what she is and I bet the gas reeipts will love me back HAHA


So it froze up on the trip to cornland?

Being an early model change conversion there may be a few "surprizes" in store.
Pink insulation's a given.

Frenchy, most C-150's started life as extended cabs, it's rare to see a Centurion stretched Bronco.
Most Bronco stretches were done by Magnum.

I find it hard to believe I had nothing to say about the stick on scoops back in the '05 post.... they are vile and goofy...... :bigsmile:

I think you should slam it, stick some dually fenders on and some big fatty tires in the back........... :fire:

Yep completely froze on the way here. It was a pretty cold day when it got delivered, I don't think she liked the single digit temperatures.

Vile and goofy describes them perfectly :HistericalSmiley: They have to go, worst part is the hood will look like crap with mismatched paint and red paint is very hard to match. Might leave on hood scoops until the entire truck gets painted, well see :bigok:

If it gets slammed any lower I don't think she'll make it up my gravel driveway :HistericalSmiley::HistericalSmiley::HistericalSmi ley::HistericalSmiley:

Maybe a little 2 inch lift so I stop hitting my shins getting in :doh: I'm so used to stepping in differently. :bigrin:


Very cool!! I seems like it would be a killer kruiser...

That is exactly what I hope she'll be! Something a little different and a lot of fun. I want to actually "trick" her up some. Should be fun.

wtxbadboy
01-30-2011, 12:51 PM
im envyous. ive been searching and searching and waiting for my wife to give the go ahead and i got it. now im waiting for my income taxes to come in so i can buy one and you steal one right out of my back yard. i think im gonna cry. yep there is a tear right there.

Audra
01-31-2011, 01:12 AM
Awww dry your tears, there is another one for sale in the Carolinas right now :D :drkbd:

Got an awful lot done on the truck today. Pictures tomorrow. The transmission is pulled and the rear interior is stripped. The heater core is changed and dang bunches more. :drkbd:

Traveler
01-31-2011, 01:08 PM
Pulled the transmission.
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/848748/fullsize/dscn1689.jpg
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/848672/fullsize/p1000821.jpg
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/848753/fullsize/dscn1688.jpg
Bought a Transgo shift kit off FSB member $40
Pro King Master overhaul kit $160
Precision Ind. Torque converter made right here locally, $147, so without any surprises the tranny should only run us about $347

The passenger window motor and regulator are shot, so going to order that new.
The mirror looked perfectly fine but was flopping loose, I had no idea on the back of the mirror was a brace that wend to the inner portion of the door skin and that is where the door gets it's integrity from. On the trucks with towing mirrors it is done differently. Or maybe this is a '92-'93 thing?
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/848755/fullsize/dscn1691.jpg
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/848757/fullsize/dscn1690.jpg


The passenger side exhaust manifold is cracked. (I know big surprise) We are putting headers on.
So started pulling that while pulling the tranny out.
I hope we don't forget to put this piece back in, it has the cats and all.
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/848771/fullsize/dscn1678.jpg

If someone was going to swap the engine into an older vehicle not requiring emissions or an offroad only vehicle, how would you go about plugging the ports on the back of the head that connect to the air tube?????

Replaced the leaking heater core. Now to do the front engine cover and we hope we have all the leaks fixed. Right at the bottom of the core you can see where the water froze and broke about 9 of the tubes.
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/848764/original/dscn1694.jpg


Okay so we forgot to mention, I know we all do things to make something work that is not always the best idea, but had to be done.
Check out the receiver hitch. It will coming off and staying off. I would guess the guy in florida that had it could not get the ball off the bumper and had to have a hitch in a hurry?
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/848772/fullsize/dscn1655.jpg
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/848773/fullsize/dscn1658.jpg
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/848774/fullsize/dscn1657.jpg

Bronco Biff
01-31-2011, 04:21 PM
You guys ROLL!! No shame in your game!!!

As far as the emissions hole in the back of the heads, I've used interference type plugs like your freeze plugs above. Measure the hole with some vernier calipers and get ones a little bigger.....you can even fab a little keeper and use the bolt for the crossover tube to secure it if you like.......look in the same hole on the front of the heads if you can see past the accesories..

wtxbadboy
01-31-2011, 04:35 PM
that bumper hitch looks fine. ill have to find the pics of a truck i bought with one held on by bolts and wood blocks.

JKernan11
01-31-2011, 05:15 PM
#7 looks a lot like my cent. I have the same cloth on my seats. What does your third row look like? I love how you guys dive right in on your projects. It's like the show "Overhaulin". You're doing great. Keep the pics coming!

SMOOTH
01-31-2011, 06:09 PM
Very excited, I can't wait to see what this truck finishes out as!

MoMo

Audra
01-31-2011, 10:02 PM
#7 looks a lot like my cent. I have the same cloth on my seats. What does your third row look like? I love how you guys dive right in on your projects. It's like the show "Overhaulin". You're doing great. Keep the pics coming!

I'll get you a picture of it tomorrow. It is in great shape but is one of the stationary ones.

Audra
01-31-2011, 11:13 PM
Very excited, I can't wait to see what this truck finishes out as!

MoMo


Thanks, and thanks everyone for the kind words and well wishes, this is really exciting.

So yesterday was tear down and I want to do half at a time so back half it was. :rockon


Traveler was pulling the transmission while I did the interior:

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/848671/fullsize/p1000771.jpg

Haven't decided how to rebuild the rear yet, but this is how it started


http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/848670/fullsize/p1000770.jpg

Not sure whether to build rear boxes for her or not

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/848674/fullsize/p1000773.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/848676/fullsize/p1000774.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/848677/fullsize/p1000775.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/848683/fullsize/p1000779.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/848684/fullsize/p1000780.jpg

yay no rust in tailgate weep holes

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/848685/fullsize/p1000781.jpg

I had help too :)

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/848698/fullsize/p1000794.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/848699/fullsize/p1000795.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/848700/fullsize/p1000796.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/848701/fullsize/p1000797.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/848704/fullsize/p1000800.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/848705/fullsize/p1000801.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/848706/fullsize/p1000802.jpg

I broke the bolts loose so he could take out the seat bolts :rockon:rockon:rockon:rockon

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/848707/fullsize/p1000803.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/848708/fullsize/p1000804.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/848711/fullsize/p1000805.jpg

oH Centurion, centurion, centurion. Oh how you frustrate me. Apparently they ran out of gray seat belts. And being the cheap rig it bastards they were they dyed/markered, whatevered 2 of the seat belts. The belts are original after-market Centurion, they're so old they have faded and wore down. I would stake money on them having done this stupidity. Luckily I know where to get replacements for these

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/848712/fullsize/p1000806.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/848713/fullsize/p1000807.jpg

The front seat belt is sliced, maybe someone wanted rid of their spouse LOL

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/848714/fullsize/p1000808.jpg

Dang needs a front belt too.

Carpet yank time!!!!

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/848716/fullsize/p1000810.jpg

They glued the carpet down with no padding. How silly I bet it was loud in there.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/848717/fullsize/p1000811.jpg

Used some Toulane and started scrubbing off the glue

Turns it into a gooey brown mess when you scrape it but comes up clean

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/848718/fullsize/p1000812.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/848720/fullsize/p1000814.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/848721/fullsize/p1000815.jpg

So nice not to have any rude surprises. No rust.

I was pretty tired and called that a night :beer:

Gonna upload some pics of tonight.

SMOOTH
02-01-2011, 07:32 AM
Thanks for the pics, I started a similar project last week. After the Hog hunt, some Hog "juice" from one of the coolers leaked, so time to pull the carpet. I had planned on doing this anyways, it just speeded up the process. I patched the wheel well and trying to decide what do with the panels. But, I mention this because I was having trouble with the glue as well. No toulane, so I'm using a grinder. Slow going, but it will get there.
I think I will sit back and see what you all do, the copy it and claim it as my own!:alien:

MoMo

Dman
02-01-2011, 09:13 AM
Great start, nothing like just diving in head first and see whats in there. Keep us posted for act 2.

Traveler
02-01-2011, 10:07 AM
I was having trouble with the glue as well.
MoMo

It worked out completely by accident, but with the front of the truck jacked up all the adhesive remover kept running down hill so keep scrapping uphill, makes it last a lot longer.
If you grab any adhesive remover it is well work it. Most of them have like MEK or Toluene. It just softens the glue.
Don't forget gloves if you don't work with chemicals very often the stuff is nasty.

4doorbronko
02-01-2011, 10:41 AM
10226

Nothing like the smell of a good stripper in an enclosed area............ :toothless:

Traveler
02-01-2011, 10:54 AM
So what is the acceptable amount of play in the timing chain? I was thinking Chevy was like 1/2" of deflection with all of the slack on one side.
What is ford spec?
The OCD side of me says put a new double roller in, the logical side of me says it will last another 100k.
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/848970/fullsize/dscn1703.jpg


Started tearing into the transmission. Right off the bad, the overdrive clutches are completely fried. The coast clutch drum is bad. So I guess we will be grabbing our spare tranny to rob parts out of.
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/848963/fullsize/dscn1700.jpg

Traveler
02-01-2011, 11:33 AM
I've used interference type plugs like your freeze plugs above. Measure the hole with some vernier calipers and get ones a little bigger.....you can even fab a little keeper and use the bolt for the crossover tube to secure it if you like.......look in the same hole on the front of the heads if you can see past the accesories..

Looks like it is a 9'16" cup plug, I will try one. It looks threaded in there, I didn't try but I wonder if a pipe plug would work.


We have the dreaded broken dash mount. not sure whether to try a repair kit or just build one again like we did on the last few. In the past we just used a piece of angle iron, cut it, bent it, and bolted it in.
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/848977/fullsize/dscn1711.jpg

Dman
02-01-2011, 02:23 PM
We have the dreaded broken dash mount. not sure whether to try a repair kit or just build one again like we did on the last few. In the past we just used a piece of angle iron, cut it, bent it, and bolted it in.
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/848977/fullsize/dscn1711.jpg

Have you tried to use fiberglass? I used it on my 2 door for the front passenger seatbelt holder. They always get broken from flipping the seat forward. My next project is to repair the door panels from the PO putting screws all the way through them in to the metal to hold the panels on.

SMOOTH
02-01-2011, 05:17 PM
Nothing like the smell of a good stripper in an enclosed area............ :toothless:

Like Ms. Glitter in the Champagne room? :bigrin:

MoMo

Audra
02-02-2011, 07:10 PM
Nothing like the smell of a good stripper in an enclosed area............ :toothless:

Good lord :shocked

4doorbronko
02-02-2011, 07:28 PM
Like Ms. Glitter in the Champagne room? :bigrin:

MoMo


Good lord :shocked

I can't be held responsible for the..... alternative minds of others...... :bigsmile:

Audra
02-02-2011, 07:49 PM
lmfao Mr. Innocent you are not. :HistericalSmiley:

SMOOTH
02-02-2011, 09:24 PM
I just heard she was a good stripper, I wouldn't know from personal experience...

MoMo

Traveler
02-03-2011, 01:01 PM
I just heard she was a good stripper, I wouldn't know from personal experience...

MoMo

He, He, no comment But I will say she is good at scrubbing floors.


Okay, so is this brace important? I mean will the intake break if it is left off?
Since we are putting headers on we would have to fab something to put the brace back on.
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/849469/fullsize/brace.jpg

We got the passenger side exhaust manifold off, it was busted.
Driver's side is next.
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/849450/fullsize/dscn1791.jpg
Have to say, wasn't liking it. The passenger side was not easy, but the bolts all came right out.
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/849447/fullsize/dscn1788.jpg

This was our fix to the broken dash mount. It has worked well in the other trucks.
Picture is minus the 2 screws that go up into the dash itself.

https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/849454/fullsize/dscn1776.jpg

Swapped out the old dash pad in favor of the new.
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/849455/fullsize/dscn1777.jpg
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/849457/fullsize/dscn1779.jpg
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/849456/fullsize/dscn1778.jpg
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/849451/fullsize/dscn1787.jpg

The passenger side rear door lock mount and retaining clip were broken off. So we used one off an old motor and put it back together. The motor seemed to still work great.
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/849468/fullsize/dscn1763.jpg
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/849474/fullsize/dscn1768.jpg
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/849475/fullsize/dscn1769.jpg
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/849476/fullsize/dscn1770.jpg

We tried our hand at paintless dent removal. Not sure yet, still needs some more work, but we did work a couple of them out. They don't show up so well in the pics.
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/849483/fullsize/dscn1752.jpg
From reading online it said heat the metal
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/849484/fullsize/dscn1753.jpg

Then cool it.
Being during a blizzard we had plenty of snow.
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/849486/fullsize/dscn1755.jpg

That was supposed to make the metal more pliable and easier to shape. Not sure it helped.
It looks way better in the picture, in person you can still see it, but we are not done yet either.
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/849489/fullsize/dscn1758.jpg

SMOOTH
02-03-2011, 07:51 PM
It looks like the pad is what I need to remove to get to the stereo, is that true? If so, how does on remove the pad?

MoMo

Traveler
02-04-2011, 10:12 AM
It looks like the pad is what I need to remove to get to the stereo, is that true? If so, how does on remove the pad?

MoMo

I will grab a pic, there are 7 nuts you have to take off to remove the dash pad. I think they are 7/16"
You pull the glove box down to get to 4 of them, I am not sure how you could get the other 3 without having the radio out already.
If you need help getting the radio out let me know. You can text me a pic and I can try to help.

https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/849588/fullsize/dscn1795.jpg
Huge Picture (https://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/849588_1)

https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/849589/fullsize/dscn1794.jpg

https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/849590/fullsize/dscn1778a.jpg

JKernan11
02-04-2011, 08:58 PM
I need one of those dash pads in tan. looking great!

Audra
02-05-2011, 02:55 PM
I need one of those dash pads in tan. looking great!

Only 15 bucks or so at the junkyard :coo1l:


He, He, no comment But I will say she is good at scrubbing floors.



Gee, thanks I guess? LOL

So lots more pictures hadnt had the time to post yet and here they are :coo1l:

First was to seal the bare metal:

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/848983/fullsize/dscn1717.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/848988/fullsize/dscn1722.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/848989/fullsize/dscn1723.jpg

Then the rubberized undercoating/sound deadener:

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/849458/fullsize/dscn1780.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/849461/fullsize/dscn1783.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/849465/fullsize/dscn1785.jpg

Next will be to move on to the middle section of the truck and the front. Getting ready to order carpet and having a helluva time trying to decide what color would look the best with this. Any pictures of suggestions for a really sharp gray interior, I'd love to see them.

I guess I didn't get any pictures of it, but I did remove the rear air unit and coat under and behind it.

Dman
02-05-2011, 04:34 PM
Probably not what your looking for, but I put some inexpensive indoor / outdoor gray carpet in mine. It's not formed or very plush, but I did the whole thing for less than $50. Picked it up at Lowes. Check out my album (updated 2/6).

Steve83
02-08-2011, 08:32 PM
Or maybe this is a '92-'93 thing?All flag-mount mirrors have that arm.

Apparently they ran out of gray seat belts. And being the cheap rig it bastards they were they dyed/markered, whatevered 2 of the seat belts.That's SOP for Ford seat belts, so don't blame Cent. What surprises me is that Cent made their own t/g carpet instead of using the Ford molded piece.
Most of them have like MEK or Toluene.Both of those are REALLY bad to breathe - MEK gets into your brain & never comes out, so be sure to keep a steady flow of fresh air coming into the shop. Personally, I'd rather use a wire wheel & a dust mask.

So what is the acceptable amount of play in the timing chain?Anything less than this is OK! :toothless:

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/542973/thumbnail/timingchainslack.jpg (http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/542973)

We have the dreaded broken dash mount. not sure whether to try a repair kit or just build one again like we did on the last few.JBG sells a kit for $20-30, IIRC, but IDK if it's identical to the Ford kit described in the TSB:

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/503997/thumbnail/tsb941513pics.jpg (http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/503997)
I need one of those dash pads in tan.E-mail me thru my profile.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/768994/thumbnail/dashpads9296.jpg (http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/768994)

Any pictures of suggestions for a really sharp gray interior...You're knocking on the door of a '91 SA color scheme; have you considered a 2-tone interior?

Traveler
02-09-2011, 08:47 AM
Thanks for all the info Steve, that answered a couple questions.
Audra is pretty busy this week but I think she ordered carpet. She was going to anyway. Since we will be driving this truck so much for a couple years we just want something nice and quiet, smooth ride, clean. It will be interesting to see how it all turns out.

Our timing chain is nothing like that. So we will let it run.

Traveler
02-09-2011, 11:44 AM
This is pretty awesome.
So the passenger side window was running up and down, but very oddly. We were just going to put a motor and regulator in it, but thought you know, lets look a little closer first. Unless it is bent, or the bushing are out of it the regulators just don't go bad.
So we drop the motor off, every looks okay.
The motors for the doors look just like the tailgate motor for the most part so we pulled the cover to check out the internal gears.
Could not believe it. Someone did a fix that kind of worked. Better than nothing I guess.
So pull the cover off, What the heck?
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/850421/fullsize/dscn1831.jpg

Someone pulled out the little rollers and put 5/16" nuts in there.
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/850419/fullsize/dscn1832.jpg

We will probably just replace the motor, or maybe a repair kit. Not sure yet. But way cool.


Tailgate.
The window was going up and down very slowly, had to kind of help it along. The key switch in the tailgate doesn't work. The rocker switch on the dash doesn't work. They had installed a toggle switch that worked well.
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/850417/fullsize/dscn1824.jpg
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/850420/fullsize/dscn1826.jpg
The window regulator is laying in the parts washer right now trying to clean the old grease out.
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/850422/fullsize/dscn1827.jpg
This end is supposed to pivot freely, but is rusted and stuck.
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/850423/fullsize/dscn1828.jpg
Two of the rollers were flat spotted and one completely disintegrated.
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/850424/fullsize/dscn1829.jpg
The slides were dry and full of dirt and sand.
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/850418/fullsize/dscn1830.jpg
Not sure it will be important but the rubber in the guides was torn on one end, we are going to pull it out and flip it end for end in the track so it doesn't catch the glass.

Last project of the night was front engine cover.
It was leaking water around the water ports going through the cover. The water pump was new, so they either did a water pump trying to stop the leak, or created another problem when they did it.
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/850427/fullsize/dscn1833.jpg
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/850428/fullsize/dscn1834.jpg
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/850429/fullsize/dscn1835.jpg
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/850430/fullsize/dscn1836.jpg
That project is just about done, I have to put the radiator hoses on and fill it. Next to pressure check it and see what leaks next.
New thermostat too.
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/850431/fullsize/dscn1837.jpg

New Idler pulley while we are there, the old one did not roll free and had a lot of wear on it.
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/850426/fullsize/dscn1838.jpg

SMOOTH
02-09-2011, 12:45 PM
I've heard of that repair before, in fact, I think I may have used it. The stupid plastic gears e to break, just an easy fix!

MoMo

4doorbronko
02-09-2011, 01:30 PM
I've heard of that repair before, in fact, I think I may have used it. The stupid plastic gears e to break, just an easy fix!

MoMo
Yep, many threads on FSB on it.
The problem is the plastic pins are sacrificial for a reason.
Designed to fail to keep from breaking other, more important parts in the event of a binding issue.
Replacement pins are a hit and miss item a lot of places, so the nuts would work to get you by for a while, but I wouldn't leave them in.

Dman
02-09-2011, 04:34 PM
Have to admit, I have done it too until the parts store got some more in.

Traveler
02-09-2011, 04:46 PM
Yep, I did read that on FSB, I couldn't believe it. Just looking at it, wouldn't a Bolt be better? Cut to length with a hack saw, or brake line or something?
Had never seen that before. Clever fix, but the plastic gear is wasted now.

No worries, $30 and both motors should be all fixed up again.
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/850459/fullsize/dscn1840.jpg

Dman
02-09-2011, 06:20 PM
I see you also got a pack of the plastic sleeves for the door latches. I never had much luck with those lasting. Is there a secret ? I bet I spent a month aligning and realigning my driver door to get the exterior lines to line up and make it latch properly. Still those plastic sleeves wouldn't last.

SMOOTH
02-09-2011, 08:07 PM
Yep, many threads on FSB on it.
The problem is the plastic pins are sacrificial for a reason.


Ya, I know, I'm just too lazy or too cheap to fix it right now. Honestly, the sad part is, I've messed with so many window motors, I couldn't tell you which one it was I did it in. Oh well, I'm sure it will be fine (famous last words).

I agree about the sleeves. I keep the parts stores employees busy replacing them from buying them so much!

MoMo

Traveler
02-09-2011, 10:55 PM
I haven't used the sleeves on the doors before, but on the tailgate they seem to work okay, but we are not in the tailgate nearly as often as say a driver's door.

I think the nut trick is great if it works, ours was not. That is why it seemed so silly when we pulled it apart. If it had been working like it does for most people we would have never known.

Steve83
02-10-2011, 12:58 AM
Someone pulled out the little rollers and put 5/16" nuts in there.I use 1/4-20 nuts in every motor I fix, and they seem to last foreverafter.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/739646/thumbnail/windowmotornuts.jpg (http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/739646)
...the rubber in the guides was torn on one end, we are going to pull it out and flip it end for end in the track...It's glued & fitted & hardened, so it probably won't come out whole. I'd just swap the guides from one side to the other.

Is there a secret ? I bet I spent a month aligning and realigning my driver door to get the exterior lines to line up and make it latch properly. Still those plastic sleeves wouldn't last.Yeah, the secret is: remove the fender. :xyxthumbs: Here's the full procedure (http://www.fourdoorbronco.com/board/showthread.php?6884-Door-Alignment).

Dman
02-10-2011, 11:24 AM
Thanks Steve. I did find and used that tip to finally get it aligned. Biggest problem was the door had been replaced and I think it was sprung just slightly. That and rookie body man.

Traveler
02-10-2011, 12:29 PM
Tailgate motor all fixed up.
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/850595/fullsize/dscn1852.jpg

Regulator, all cleaned up and greased.
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/850596/fullsize/dscn1853.jpg

Striker pins for the tailgate.
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/850597/fullsize/dscn1854.jpg
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/850593/fullsize/dscn1855.jpg

We did think about swapping the rails side to side, after we pulled the rubber out of this one and flipped it end for end. Glued it back in and all is good.
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/850594/fullsize/dscn1851.jpg

LR door lock was not working, Motor is stuck.
So pulled it out to swap it and found some more great engineering.
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/850599/fullsize/dscn1860.jpg
Who needs an electrical plug as long as they are making putty.


We had a motor we pulled from the junk yard laying around as a spare. We used the mounting bracket on the other rear door, so we will use the motor on this one.
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/850600/fullsize/dscn1861.jpg

Now to swap the rods.
There is a little lock ring on the end of the motor shaft. Pry it off gently, you will need to re use it.
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/850601/fullsize/dscn1862.jpg
The you slide the collar up and pull the actuator rod out.
There are three tiny balls in there, don't lose them, You will need them.
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/850602/fullsize/dscn1863.jpg
Once you put the actuator rod in the new motor, take a dab of grease and put the balls back in place, slide the collar over it and re install the keeper ring.
You are good to go.

We pulled the glass out to tint them. That is the easiest way to do it, dining room table.
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/850603/fullsize/dscn1870.jpg

We sealed up the exhaust ports on the back of the head. 9/16" cup plug worked well with a little secret sauce.
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/850604/fullsize/dscn1871.jpg

We pulled the mount off the passenger door mirror. We have mirrors but not with the chrome, so we will use a black mirror, rob the base off it and put the chrome one back on. Had no idea it was that simple, 3 little screws.
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/850606/fullsize/dscn1867.jpg
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/850607/fullsize/dscn1868.jpg


We often get home and wonder what we did, but it is coming together.
Doesn't always seem like we get a lot done in one night, but it takes time to put all of this stuff together.
The tailgate is back together, we still need the switch inside the tailgate, but the window works great now. The tailgate opens and closes great after a handle adjustment. Now no rattles in it. Nice and solid.
The other window motor, it turned out great. That window is now done. It runs up and down smooth and quiet.

We filled the engine with antifreeze again to pressure check it for leaks, did not even get to the pressure part and found another big leak.
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/850608/fullsize/dscn1857.jpg
Shut off valve to the rear heat, rusted right through.
Bypassed it, now full of antifreeze, no drips, next time we will pressure test it.

Steve83
02-10-2011, 01:28 PM
We had a motor we pulled from the junk yard laying around as a spare.I hate that style of lock motor - I always swap to the later ones:

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/687494/thumbnail/lkmtrs.jpg (http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/687494)
...balls in there, don't lose them, You will need them.:rubseyes: Can I get that on a keychain?
Had no idea it was that simple, 3 little screws.There's a full writeup beginning with this pic & continuing thru the NEXT several:

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/577033/thumbnail/01busted.jpg (http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/577033)
...we still need the switch inside the tailgate...If you drill out the rivets & can find a similar replacement, you can change the switches out & reconnect the wires.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/517068/thumbnail/tgswitch2.jpg (http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/517068)

Occasionally, though, you can find a damaged t/g harness in the JY & just chop the switches off. I try NOT to cut them from good harnesses.

While you're working on the front of the engine, you might as well convert to a working oil pressure gauge:

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/768241/thumbnail/switchsenderv8.jpg (http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/768241)

If you're not ready to mod the gauge right now, you can still install the plumbing & put the original switch in it. It won't hurt anything, but it'll be ready for the sender whenever you are. If you do mod the gauge, you can add the factory low fuel light at the same time! :D

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/434941/thumbnail/lfl_on.jpg (http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/434941)

Traveler
02-10-2011, 02:45 PM
If you drill out the rivets & can find a similar replacement, you can change the switches out & reconnect the wires.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/517068/thumbnail/tgswitch2.jpg (http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/517068)

Occasionally, though, you can find a damaged t/g harness in the JY & just chop the switches off. I try NOT to cut them from good harnesses.



I think I was more surprised to find neither direction worked. Being two independent switches you wouldn't think they would fail at the same time.
Is that normal?
Has me thinking there is something wrong in the harness.

Bruce
02-10-2011, 04:18 PM
Do you have any pics of how to get the 2 back door panels off. What tool is needed to take off the manual window handle? and how does that handle come off?


If you ever have trouble getting the striker pins out when putting those plastic bushings on....you can just cut the bushings with a hacksaw on one side and then slip them over....that is how my bodyman told me to fix my rattling doors....they have worked great.

oops forgot my other question....what is the red stuff in the pics on the freeze plugs?... i have to replace mine too...some idiot (me) didnt check the antifreeze before the recent freeze. Is there something I need to put on the freeze plugs (like loctite) before I put then in?

Traveler
02-10-2011, 04:39 PM
Do you have any pics of how to get the 2 back door panels off. What tool is needed to take off the manual window handle? and how does that handle come off?
I will get pics of that.
The door panel is just phillips screw driver and then those plastic push pins.
The window crank, depending on year, the plastic cover slips off to expose the screw holding it on.




what is the red stuff in the pics on the freeze plugs?... i have to replace mine too...some idiot (me) didnt check the antifreeze before the recent freeze. Is there something I need to put on the freeze plugs (like loctite) before I put then in?

The red stuff is loctite.
Nothing hard or fancy about it, I cleaned the hole with emery cloth, made sure it was dry, then found a socket that barely slips inside the freeze plug and used extension and hammer to drive it in.
If you cannot get on it straight, start it, then use a punch to work around the outside and drive it in evenly that way.

Traveler
02-15-2011, 11:43 AM
Do you have any pics of how to get the 2 back door panels off. What tool is needed to take off the manual window handle? and how does that handle come off?




I will try to grab pics putting the panels back on, but if you just look around for screws, one inside the arm rest, and 3 or 4 along the bottom. That is it, then just pull gently. The rest is held on by push pins.
You have to kind of pull, and lift to get the top out of the window channel.
Once you get it free, then slide if forward off of the door handle.

Here is the window crank.
The outer cover just kind of snaps loose, then it is help on by a phillips or torx screw depending on model year.


http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/851675/fullsize/dscn1885.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/851677/fullsize/dscn1886.jpg

Okay, other projects.
We pulled the windows to tint them, much easier, and better use of our time to do it in the living room.
First step, remove old tint if there is any. Just a razor blade and scraping.

Next clean the window. Use glass cleaner to wet the glass and scrape it with a razor blade.
the glass cleaner is important, it keeps the blade cool as well as helping collect the dirt.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/851666/fullsize/dscn1872.jpg

You will end up looking like this, scrape everything, the cleaner the better.
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/851667/fullsize/dscn1873.jpg

Now wipe it down with a clean, lint free rag, or good quality paper towel.

Next, lay down some material. You can precut, (making the material the same size as the window before you start) Or I just lay it on there and leave a couple inches around the outside.
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/851668/fullsize/dscn1874.jpg

Now you are ready for the tricky part.
You need to separate the clear film from the adhesive side of the tint.
I typically tape the tint up hanging, then start to peel the clear film off.
Spray it heavily with soapy water as you are doing this. It will help the tint to lay or hang straight instead of rolling up on you.

Once you have them separated and ready to lay down. Then spray the glass with soapy water.
Slap the tint on, spray the outside with soapy water as well, it will help the squeegee glide and keep from scratching the tint.

The soap solution us just a regular dish detergent, about a teaspoon to a quart of water.

Once you have laid the tint on, just keep chasing bubbles. Keep working them out. Adding water to lubricate the tint as needed.
Do a rough trim around the outside. Maybe leave 1/4" hanging. That will help you chase the water out and allow it to fall instead of it running back under the tint.

Try very hard to not pick the tint up off the glass. For some reason doing that attracts dust much worse than the initial drop and it will be trapped there forever.
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/851665/fullsize/dscn1875.jpg

Once you have chased all the bubbles out and they are not coming back, let the tint sit for a few hours. Let the edges dry.
Now take a new razor blade, and that is important to have a new sharp one. Trip the outside, basically start it, and scrape it along the glass all the way around. If the blade is not sharp it will snag the tint and drag it loose.

Let it sit overnight and install.
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/851679/fullsize/dscn1887.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/851673/fullsize/dscn1888.jpg

This is 2.5% Haven't used that before. But we normally use more than one layer so we hope this is enough.
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/851687/fullsize/dscn1934.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/851690/fullsize/dscn1936.jpg

Traveler
02-15-2011, 11:57 AM
We have a broken armrest, this is not all that uncommon.
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/851670/fullsize/dscn1876.jpg

It has a cheap little aluminum piece in there that will break and needs to be welded or replaced. We have welded them before and it is not easy, cheap, crappy, dirty. But it did work.
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/851674/fullsize/dscn1879.jpg

Removal is a T50 torx, pull the whole arm rest off.
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/851672/fullsize/dscn1878.jpg


You can stretch the foam far enough to expose the 5/16" heads to the bolts holding it on.
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/851681/fullsize/dscn1883.jpg

Now to repair or replace.
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/851669/fullsize/dscn1884.jpg


We got the receiver hitch off and out of the way. One of the bolts was actually pulling on the fuel tank, We hope there isn't a hole worn through it.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/851688/fullsize/dscn1896.jpg

Steering column was next. We were going to swap the whole thing out, but you have to so completely tear it down to do that it is just as easy to fix this one, so we started tearing it apart.
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/851694/fullsize/dscn1897.jpg

The ignition switch is all broken up and it turns extremely hard so we will put a new one it, clean and lube it while we are there.
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/851695/fullsize/dscn1898.jpg


This little white cable goes to the PRNDL21 shift indicator. You do not want to break that.
Take it off first.
The spring came off of ours, so we had to tear the dash apart to reconnect it. It was stuck on P
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/851699/fullsize/dscn1902.jpg

Centurion wiring job to the rear defroster switch.
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/851700/fullsize/dscn1903.jpg

The shift tube bushings are completely out it, but the tube looks good, so just some new bushings, we already tightened the bolts on the end of the shift tube. It should feel like new when we are done.
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/851693/fullsize/dscn1905.jpg

Bruce
02-15-2011, 03:13 PM
I wish mine had that 92 darker gray color. I love that darker color and those cloth factory bucket seats! IMO that is the best interior in Centurions.

Bocephus85
02-15-2011, 06:49 PM
You guys seem to have alot of experience with these things and this one is similar to mine on the inside.

Who do you use for carpet replacement?

Is there much difference in brands for the window tint? I am hoping to avoid the purple fade look. How much trouble does the rear defrost give you when you do tint?

Thanks for all the pictures and info, it makes me feel slightly less hopeless about mine...

broncojohn460
02-15-2011, 09:35 PM
You guys seem to have alot of experience with these things and this one is similar to mine on the inside.

Who do you use for carpet replacement?

Is there much difference in brands for the window tint? I am hoping to avoid the purple fade look. How much trouble does the rear defrost give you when you do tint?

Thanks for all the pictures and info, it makes me feel slightly less hopeless about mine...

they should they have 7:transport009: of them....LOL...they do know there s#$t

Steve83
02-16-2011, 01:08 AM
Being two independent switches you wouldn't think they would fail at the same time.With everything connected normally but the switches where you can access them, probe the Bk/W wire; it should be hot at all times. The P/LG & P/LB should be ground when no switches are pressed, but each should change to hot when its t/g switch is pressed, or when the dash switch is operated in the corresponding direction.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/97370/thumbnail/powerwindow95evtm.jpg (http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/97370_1)

If that tests OK, either depress the latch switch (by closing the driver's latch onto the 2nd catch) or jumper it. Then test each motor wire as you operate each t/g switch. Then disconnect the motor and jumper power & ground directly to it. Then reverse the polarity. Post your results.
Is there something I need to put on the freeze plugs (like loctite) before I put then in?Ford doesn't recommend anything, but I'd put SOME kind of sealant on them. Just about anything will help: silicone, RightStuff, Hylomar, Indian Head... I'm not sure how much strength threadlocker will add to the seal, so I'd be hesitant to use it - it might defeat the purpose of the plug, which is to blow out. Or it might have no noticeable effect.
Now to repair or replace.Have you thought about fabricating a steel one? Looks like a scrap of 1/4" plate with a few holes drilled in would work.
We were going to swap the whole thing out, but you have to so completely tear it down to do thatI always thought the '92-up column was really easy to R&R.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/285928/thumbnail/column1.jpg (http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/285928)
This little white cable goes to the PRNDL21 shift indicator. You do not want to break that.It's really easy to snag a later BLACK cable from the JY - they never break.
we had to tear the dash apart to reconnect it.The PERFECT opportunity to make the oil gauge work, & add the low fuel light! :xyxthumbs:
It should feel like new when we are done.http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/434182/thumbnail/shiftercableadjustments.jpg (http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/434182)

Audra
02-16-2011, 06:17 AM
I've been working each night too; I have just been so busy lately that I hadn't posted my pictures yet:

Rear to mid has been stripped, sealed, rubberized undercoated/sound deadened, and now peel and seal rubber aluminum. It is a thick air-tight layer of rubber/butyl to protect the metal and give a solid layer of sound deadening. I have bought a lot of brands sound deadener and this stuff has always reminded me of the Edead butyl without anything close to that price tag. I honestly think they source their material from a roofing manufacturer. I used both brands in my 78 bronco and side by side there was not any discernible difference. So this is how it turned out, double layered:

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/851702/fullsize/dscn1930.jpg

I tried to get good pictures to show; I used a heat gun on low (around 400 degrees) to form the material around the curves without needing to cut it (making seams/bumps):

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/851706/fullsize/dscn1909.jpg

like this; top of the wheel well:

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/851708/fullsize/dscn1911.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/851709/fullsize/dscn1912.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/851710/fullsize/dscn1913.jpg

A little heat...

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/851711/fullsize/dscn1914.jpg

No creases and no cuts and no loose material; the heat seals the butyl:

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/851712/fullsize/dscn1915.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/851713/fullsize/dscn1916.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/851724/fullsize/dscn1925.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/851725/fullsize/dscn1926.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/851727/fullsize/dscn1928.jpg

Now to the middle row and front! :drkbd:

4doorbronko
02-16-2011, 11:32 AM
It's like a tinfoil hat for your centurion. :twotu:

Audra
02-16-2011, 01:49 PM
I'm preparing for the alien invasion. :shocked

SMOOTH
02-16-2011, 06:23 PM
I love it! I'm planning on tackling this same issue in the near future and really appreciate the pics and hints!

MoMo

Steve83
02-17-2011, 01:16 AM
EASY THERE, Jerry... Remember it's only a 1/2-ton chassis! :roflmao:

Dman
02-17-2011, 08:26 AM
Audra, you said you are doing a "double layer". Does the second layer really make that much difference ? Just asking because I only did one layer in my 2 door with no less than 1" overlap.

Traveler
02-17-2011, 09:59 AM
Who do you use for carpet replacement?

ACC, auto custom carpet we have used. trying a different company now, Audra is working with them. They are right here in Iowa, hoping to get better service.

Carpet we are kind of up in the air on. With this truck being a stretched bronco instead of a clipped crew cab the floor in the second row is different than anything we are used to.
I think this truck will get a standard bronco set with a couple yards of matching carpet.
We have a set of bronco carpet laying here we need to test fit. We put some in our Son's bronco and his came extremely long and we know it would reach well over the second row hump.

On a Crew cab, with the rear panel removed and bronco added, the floor pan in the second row is all crew cab, so we get a Crew cab set and a rear bronco set, and a couple extra yards of matching carpet.


Is there much difference in brands for the window tint? I am hoping to avoid the purple fade look. How much trouble does the rear defrost give you when you do tint?


There is a difference in window tint.
We usually use Gila brand, it is available at most auto parts stores. You will need 4 6.5ft rolls to do the rear windows, most parts stores don't stock that much around here so you have to collect it.
The best tint to use is the Ultra series. If you pull them out of the box and feel it, it is a lot thicker and heavier. It will withstand scratches and scrapes much better than the standard tint. It also holds up to temperature changes better.

We used the 2.5% this time instead of our normal 5%. It is very thin, but we wanted to try and get dark enough for us in one layer for once.

The rear window defrost, well best advice is don't use it. If you do use it shut it off when the ice or snow is gone. We have not had any problems with the re defrost hurting the tint, maybe because we are careful, or maybe because it will handle it okay.

All tints will turn purple eventually. But it can last for 10 years plus easily. You have to be careful to use tint safe window cleaners, or better yet don't get them dirty to begin with.

Don't give up, nothing is hopeless, just one job at a time.

Traveler
02-17-2011, 10:36 AM
Have you thought about fabricating a steel one? Looks like a scrap of 1/4" plate with a few holes drilled in would work.

Yep we are thinking about that, might be easier right now just to weld it. Not sure, depends on if we have to get the welder out for anything else.
We don't see any reason it has to be shaped like that.
Also surprised that with all the junk yard searching there is not another vehicle that uses the same piece.




I always thought the '92-up column was really easy to R&R.

It isn't bad, but you have to remove the multifunction switch just to unplug it. For us, at that point it is just as easy to fix what we have. We would most likely fix it anyway because we don't have any columns that we don't want to use eventually.





The PERFECT opportunity to make the oil gauge work, & add the low fuel light!

Those are great mods, we will probably skip the low fuel light on this one though, with dual tanks we found it kind of annoying as we typically run one tank completely dry.

Audra
02-17-2011, 08:35 PM
Audra, you said you are doing a "double layer". Does the second layer really make that much difference ? Just asking because I only did one layer in my 2 door with no less than 1" overlap.

Any extra layers is one more layer against road noise. This is one of the few gas vehicles that we own, it will be nice to have a quiet vehicle.

Steve83
02-18-2011, 12:15 AM
We don't see any reason it has to be shaped like that.Look at how the stop works - the peg that makes it stow beside the seatback & then holds the weight of your arm. Those flats on top are critical.

BJS
02-18-2011, 07:44 AM
This is 2.5% Haven't used that before. But we normally use more than one layer so we hope this is enough.

I wish I could go darker than what I have seems every time I head to GA to visit the folks in the cent I get stopped so for no other reason than to check the tint. Since it's a truck the only windows that count are the front doors. and they are @ the limit of 32% for GA though FL requires darker GA's law is an operate law, well that and I tinted them when I lived there.

Traveler
02-18-2011, 08:59 AM
In Iowa the law says nothing on the front windows. We typically go with the 35% there.
If you have a visor on the truck, and because the back is so dark, it is very hard to tell the front ones are tinted on a drive by.
Without the visor it is easy to see the front windows are tinted. It makes that much of a difference.

We are afraid this truck out of all that we own will get the most ethnic profiling in its current condition and probably will not do the front windows on it for now.

Bruce
02-22-2011, 08:50 AM
This Centurion has factory seats...when you have the factory seats instead of aftermarket Centurion...does the back seat still fold down into a bed?

So I had to replace my passenger back freeze plug too...I just replaced it then filled it up and now it is pouring out the drivers side....apparently it is the one you reference earlier..the one behind the mount....do I just undo the mounts on both sides to jack up the motor?...how do I jack up the motor?...just a block on a floorjack under the pan? or can that dent the pan?

Traveler
02-22-2011, 09:11 AM
This Centurion has factory seats...when you have the factory seats instead of aftermarket Centurion...does the back seat still fold down into a bed?

It is not a standard bronco seat, but it does not lay down flat. It is custom but it is an earlier version before they figured out how to do that.



So I had to replace my passenger back freeze plug too...I just replaced it then filled it up and now it is pouring out the drivers side....apparently it is the one you reference earlier..the one behind the mount....do I just undo the mounts on both sides to jack up the motor?...how do I jack up the motor?...just a block on a floorjack under the pan? or can that dent the pan?

Yep just like what happened to us.
Yes un do both motor mounts.
Put a 2x4 on end, cut to length, under the harmonic balancer, actually I think we were on the back of the pulleys, or in front of the balancer. It was where the steering linkage would allow us to put it up in there straight.

Jacking on the pan will destroy it.
Jack up with floor jack or bottle jack.
Take the motor mounts loose from the block and slide them out of the way.

Traveler
02-22-2011, 10:23 AM
Now we are in the tedious stage of slowly putting everything back together.
We got a bunch of little things done. Pass side door mirror, the base is changed and the back on the truck.
We did some more dent removal. Used a kit called pops a dent, it is basically a hot glue gun, you glue a tab in the center of the dent and pull.
Mixed results but better. If nothing else we are getting the dents shallow enough they will be easy to work out when we decide to re paint.

Pictures, we got the left rear door, and the right front door cleaned out inside and sprayed with undercoating. Now we covered them in peel and seal and repaired the lights.
Now the door panels are back on with all of the little plastic retainer clips replaced with new. When these doors close they give a thud now instead of a echo. Can't wait to hear them going down the road.
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/853088/fullsize/dscn1989.jpg
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/853098/fullsize/dscn1998.jpg

We made a piece for the arm rest. Just no luck finding one in the junkyards.
A piece of strap steel 1 1/4"x3" x 1/4" thick.
Laid the old one on top to mark the 19/32' hole.
Then drill and tap for the smaller screws.
Next to install and see how we did working with a bent broken piece. If we are correct the arm rest will fold up farther than it used to but be the same elevation when down. That is simply because the hole placement was off just a tad.
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/853100/fullsize/dscn2060.jpg

Bruce
02-22-2011, 01:02 PM
On post #26 of this thread is a picture of the 2nd row seatbelts...the 2nd row seat is gone. There is a fiberglass platform the 2nd seat sits on....is that factory or is that something Centurion built to place the 2nd row seat on? I am trying to figure out how to get a factory 2nd row seat for mine.

Traveler
02-22-2011, 02:03 PM
On post #26 of this thread is a picture of the 2nd row seatbelts...the 2nd row seat is gone. There is a fiberglass platform the 2nd seat sits on....is that factory or is that something Centurion built to place the 2nd row seat on? I am trying to figure out how to get a factory 2nd row seat for mine.

That plate should be Steel. It is something Centurion made or added when they stretched the truck.
A stretched bronco is built like this, the Crew can conversions have a plate that is bolted in and can be removed.
This cannot be removed.
The seat has some L brackets on the bottom and just bolted right to the floor.
The seats are put up right now, I will try to grab you a pic as soon as I get a chance.

They are just factory ford bucket seats. They recline and slide back and forth.
They do not tip or fold.
Making one work is just a matter of fabbing a bracket that will bolt to the bottom of the seat and to the floor and what ever elevation you prefer.

Bruce
02-22-2011, 03:18 PM
So the plate can be removed? but I am talking about under the plate...the platform the plate sits on...is that factory or is that something added...it appears to be a fiberglass platform that was made and placed over the seam of where the 2 cabs were put together. So that platform that the plate is bolted to is factory? Does this mean a factory crew cab back seat will bolt right in?

Traveler
02-22-2011, 04:45 PM
Can you post some pics?

Just can't grasp what you are talking about. Never seen a fiberglass cover that would be heavy enough to handle the seats.

Our '95s and '96 have a steal plate that can be removed with 4 bolts.

Is yours like this?
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/15450/60118

Traveler
02-22-2011, 05:22 PM
Started stripping the roof down. It is not pretty.
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/853086/fullsize/dscn1990.jpg
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/853089/fullsize/dscn1991.jpg
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/853091/fullsize/dscn1992.jpg

Grinding the filler out.
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/853096/fullsize/dscn1994.jpg

Sand blasted and treated with rust killer. I don't think the stuff is that great though. Oh well most of it will get ground off when we go to seal it or weld in patch panels, or whatever we decide to do.
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/853099/fullsize/dscn1995.jpg

Traveler
02-22-2011, 05:25 PM
Steering column.
New bushing put in.
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/853081/fullsize/dscn1979.jpg
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/853082/fullsize/dscn1980.jpg

Changing out the shifter boot.
Pull the pin on the gear shift lever.
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/853085/fullsize/dscn1982.jpg
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/853092/fullsize/dscn1985.jpg

Shifter boot. $60 through lmc truck, free at the junk yard.
They used the same boot in newer windstar vans and explorers.
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/853094/fullsize/dscn1986.jpg

Column mounted back up in there, pulled the wheel to install a new steering wheel next.
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/853097/fullsize/dscn1987.jpg

Pulled the igniton switch to clean the actuator and replace the cylinder assembly
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/853080/fullsize/dscn1988.jpg

Traveler
03-02-2011, 01:11 PM
Had to take a couple weeks off and get some other things done, but we will be hitting this project again this weekend.

We got a junk yard bumper, $40 with all the trim.
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/854235/fullsize/dscn2079.jpg

It had a little rust on the bottom and the inside. So we sanded it, treated it and undercoated it.
This thin sits so low nobody will ever see it.
If the Factory air dam doesn't hit curbs or parking bumps we may go ahead and put a centurion valance on it.
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/854236/fullsize/dscn2080.jpg
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/854234/fullsize/dscn2082.jpg

We have these mounting tabs on the back of the gauge bezel, can they be glued back on?
Never tried to fix them before.
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/854282/fullsize/dscn2127.jpg

New rear window switch for the dash.
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/854283/fullsize/dscn2120.jpg

It had a standard toggle switch mounted next to the original switch to run the rear window.
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/854289/fullsize/dscn2126.jpg

Not wanting to leave the hole there. We took that little panel out of another cluster we had. This piece is apparently not removable on all bezels.
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/854286/fullsize/dscn2123.jpg

Ended up with this.
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/854285/fullsize/dscn2122.jpg

We had some shorty headers, not for a truck or bronco. Thought they would work but after starting to mount them we realized the exhaust would be a nightmare as they are basically pointed towards the oil pan, so we scored these off craigslist.
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/854284/fullsize/dscn2121.jpg

This truck has really wide rims. I am sure they did that because of the extremely wide running boards centurion made on these early models.
So the tire size is a little odd. We normally don't buy used tires for something we depend on but came across these. over 90% tread, stored inside and 2008 casings. So yeah they should be good yet.
https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/854288/fullsize/dscn2125.jpg

bob_95_psd
03-02-2011, 11:12 PM
Ya know just yesterday I was thinking that you guys were slacking on this project since we had not seen an update since 2/23. :bigrin:

Bocephus85
03-06-2011, 11:58 AM
Where did you guys get the sound deadener, and what's it called? I have always either used bedliner or undercoating, but I would like to give this a try.

Thanks.

Traveler
03-06-2011, 10:18 PM
Where did you guys get the sound deadener, and what's it called? I have always either used bedliner or undercoating, but I would like to give this a try.

Thanks.

We got it at Lowes, in the roofing section. This stuff is called peel and seal. Comes in a 8" wide roll. It takes a lot of rolls to do it all. It is worth it.
In the '78 bronco Audra from some product made by Grace and it was like 24" wide, same material but no foil back. It worked great as well. Doesn't want to stick to horizontal surfaces very well, but no odor from it.
You are looking for a rubber, adhesive backed ice and water barrier, or flashing repair. You want to stay away from the tar or asphalt based products as we have read they can cause some odor issues.


There is some lighter material in the HVAC area at home depot it is tin faces with a foam backing. It is used for heater and AC ducting. It is light. We are going to use it above the headliner. More to come on that one.

BJS
03-07-2011, 07:48 AM
to answer the question about the gauge bezel clips, they can't really be glued back on or every glue I've tried has broken during assembly.

When I fixed mine I forgot to take pictures, :twak so I'll attempt to visually describe what I did that appears to be working very well.

This depends on you still having the metal clip that actually does the holding.

In the screw sections of your local hardware store you'll be able to find a screw that is wood thread on one side and machine thread on the other. The way the metal clips are made they will thread into the machine thread side and the wood tread is just right to catch the hole in the middle of the plastic.

Bocephus85
03-07-2011, 11:35 AM
We got it at Lowes, in the roofing section. This stuff is called peel and seal. Comes in a 8" wide roll. It takes a lot of rolls to do it all. It is worth it.
In the '78 bronco Audra from some product made by Grace and it was like 24" wide, same material but no foil back. It worked great as well. Doesn't want to stick to horizontal surfaces very well, but no odor from it.
You are looking for a rubber, adhesive backed ice and water barrier, or flashing repair. You want to stay away from the tar or asphalt based products as we have read they can cause some odor issues.


There is some lighter material in the HVAC area at home depot it is tin faces with a foam backing. It is used for heater and AC ducting. It is light. We are going to use it above the headliner. More to come on that one.

Sounds good, I am always looking for an excuse to go to lowes anyway. I think I even have one of those spend a bunch of money, heres 5 bucks coupons...

I was wondering about the roof, I will have to fix my leak first though... Maybe the roofing tar would be good in that application...

Clydesdale
03-07-2011, 11:54 AM
The brand of it we have here comes in a wider width as well, and coves 120 sq ft or something...

Steve83
03-18-2011, 12:31 AM
You STOLE that bumper! :twotu:
We have these mounting tabs on the back of the gauge bezel, can they be glued back on?No, but they can be screwed! ;)

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/820786/thumbnail/clusterbezelrepairs.jpg (http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/820786)

Traveler
03-18-2011, 08:40 AM
I figured screws would work, but could not figure out how to separate the tabs until right now.
So cool, there are two little tabs bent over holding the halves together.
Now being able to separate them, no problem putting a screw in it.
Thank you,

Audra
03-18-2011, 09:14 AM
Wow I need to upload pictures, we've done a ton since then :america:

Steve83
03-18-2011, 12:40 PM
I never open the clips - I just let it wobble while I drive the screw. Then when it gets too angled, I switch to a pocket screwdriver & center the clip up on the post as it tightens down.

Steve83
04-15-2011, 08:08 AM
I did the armrest repair...

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/862473/thumbnail/armrestrplate.jpg (http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/862473)

I shifted the holes to one side so I could adjust the angles.

JohnDeStef
04-15-2011, 08:52 AM
:hijack:

I haven't mentioned it, but, it's great to have you aboard Steve! Your experience and logging of repairs is really fantastic, thanks!!!

Traveler
04-15-2011, 09:25 AM
He is a big help and we appreciate having him around.

Too bad this truck is in a holding pattern right now. Not enough time, kids, planting trees, work. Too many other projects that have to be taken care of first. Still hope to be running it this summer.

4doorbronko
04-15-2011, 11:20 AM
:hijack:

I haven't mentioned it, but, it's great to have you aboard Steve! Your experience and logging of repairs is really fantastic, thanks!!!

Ditto.

kto17
03-15-2012, 12:19 PM
How about some updates? Is Lucky #7 back on the road?

Traveler
03-16-2012, 08:27 AM
Nope, Parked in the Barn under a tarp.

We are moving, trying to sell a house and other things.
Hope to start back on it in a month or two and be using it this summer.

kto17
03-16-2012, 10:56 AM
Nope, Parked in the Barn under a tarp.

We are moving, trying to sell a house and other things.
Hope to start back on it in a month or two and be using it this summer.

Got one of those buses your willing to sell?

You guys moving to Audra's old stomping grounds? :RebelSmilie:

I think yall could just about double the number of Centurions in GA!

Jimbo
02-20-2013, 12:44 PM
It looks like Life got in the way of this project finishing up?

Traveler
02-20-2013, 01:05 PM
Yep, always happens that way. We actually bought a very large foreclosed home and that in itself can consume your free time, with the wife in school and two teenagers in college and trying to keep their cars running, heck there is no time for fun stuff.

We actually decided we just don't have a use for a 2 wheel drive truck, so rather than just slapping it back together it will become a 1 ton diesel. Complete with a color change. It will be something we love to drive rather than being a grocery getter. That will add a bunch of time to the restore so we are doing some other projects first wile we finish collecting parts.

kto17
10-07-2014, 10:11 PM
Traveler, if you change your mind on the conversion to one ton and would sell it, let me know. If not get back to work! Ha!

I'm keeping an eye out for a 2wd 5.0. I'm just not sure they made 2 of them! I gotta find something to drive while I restore my C350, or at least that's the excuse I'm giving my wife. :supergrin:

Traveler
10-08-2014, 08:52 AM
They are around and unloved.
I agree I think it would be a great grocery getter like it is.
We actually have sold off a couple vehicles, but not centurions. It is amazing how busy things have been. I start getting excited about working on one then bam, gotta do something else first.

1985 Bronco
11-05-2015, 02:20 PM
Updates on this project?

Traveler
11-05-2015, 05:44 PM
Sitting in the garage, Life happens. Kids in college, moving. it has put a damper on it.

It will get done though. Going to do a couple other first though.