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SMOOTH
04-17-2008, 09:48 AM
Year: 1992


Model: C350 Classic



Came From Factory as: F350 Crew Cab


Vin: # 2ftjw36m3nca22718

Vehicle history that I know: Tranny rebuilt a few years ago...that's about it.


DRIVETRAIN
Engine: 7.3ici non-turbo

Transmission: E4OD

Transfercase: I think it's a NP205

Rear end: I think it's a Dana 60

Rear end Ratio: Haven't figured out yet, but was running around 1500 RPMs in overdrive at 50 mph on what I think is factory size tires

Front Axle: Dana 60

Front hubs: Automatic

Wheels: I think factory

Tires: Dunlop, some kind of all-terrain I think, I believe they are factory size, they're metric, but they look around 31-32 inches tall.

Fuel Tank: I don't know size, but it's rear tank only.

Weight: Old registration says Gross weight is 6000, shipping weight is 4851.

Length: no idea, long, I know that.

Height: no idea

Width: no idea

Wheelbase: no idea


INTERIOR OPTIONS: cloth

Front seats: Captain Chairs with console

Power seat: both

Second row seating: 60/40

Third row:Lay down bed with armrests

Heat AC: yes, both work very well

Rear heat: I don't know, there is a vent in the panel on the passanger side, and some unit on the passanger side back of the vehicle. There is a switch on the dash for some rear air system.

Rear AC: same thing, no idea, see above post.

Rear window Defrost: yes, but I don't know if it works.

Power Windows: front only, would like to make the rear power as well.

Power Door Locks: Yes, but rear doors don't work, I have extra actuators from a Bronco I'm going to see if they will work.

Power Tailgate window: Yes

#Cruise Control: Yes, but no lights on dash to indicate it's on, is this normal?

Stereo: Aftermarket w/CD and cracked front lense.

Speakers: Doors and rear, but I don't think they all work.

Instrumentation: Full with Tach, need to get more gauges though.

Overhead console: Yes, the funky shelf thing, it will be coming out this weekend!

Dash and Door trim: Wood, but faded, I plan on sanding and refinishing them. Plus rear driver's side is broken, need to cut a new piece to put in.

Glass: Looks like home tint job, some will need to be replaced.

Spare tire Carrier: Mounted inside, thinking about moving it out back so I have more room inside.

Other: I think it's the Centurion center console, but it's missing the top, I don't think I'm going to keep this, I want the jump seat that works as a console as well. Plus, the front seats are in poor shape, do I get them reupholstered or replaced? Would like a roof console, and a few other things.



EXTERIOR OPTIONS
Paint: White with faded stripes.

Running boards: Had them, but were removed.

Mirrors: swing-a-way

Roof Rack: No, but I think I'd like one.

Reciever Hitch: Yes

Rear Bumper: Big and chrome, very shiny

Tow package: Supposely yes, what should I look for?

Front air Dam: Not sure what this is asking for? The airfilter is fed from a scoop under the hood above the grill, is that it?

Grille Guard: Yes, big bumper.

Rear wind deflector: Yes

Other: 7000 lb Ramsey winch on front.

Misc Centurion notes: no idea.

My current Mods: none yet, but many to come.

My Future Mods: Replace rear panels with wood, move tire to outside, maybe a custom storage in rear with inverter and outlet, switch to operate rear window from inside in the back, possibly fridge in back (if it will fit), possibly replace front seats, I'm sure there is more.

anything else and on to the pics.
A few things I learned on the drive home I could use some help on. First, oil pressure gauge read just above the line at low, a couple of times moved up to near the 'N' in normal, but that's it. I know on my Bronco it's a dummy light (meaning, if pressure above a preset, then shows pressure, if below preset, shows no pressure), so I don't even know if it's working. Truck ran fine, no noises, no over-heating. Also, blinkers and brake lights didn't work, rear running lights did though. I should have checked to see if emergency lights work, but otherwise, any thoughts other then the checking bulbs and power to the rear plugs? I didn't have enough time to do all of that once I got home, didn't know if it was something common with these trucks. Fuses looked good. Didn't mind the ride, rides like a truck, but was spongy, any way to reduce the vibrations coming into the cab? Tranny is good, shifts HARD! PO said uses about a quart of oil a month. That's all I can think of for now, I'm sure there is more, now for some pics!

MoMo

SMOOTH
04-17-2008, 10:08 AM
Here she is:
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/626427/fullsize/100_1995.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/626430/fullsize/100_1961.jpg

As best as I can tell, this is the worst rust
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/626434/fullsize/100_1966.jpg

More to come, just have to finish up a meeting.

MoMo

SMOOTH
04-17-2008, 10:53 AM
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/626436/fullsize/100_1969.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/626442/fullsize/100_1976.jpg

Is that black box the trailer break?
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/626452/fullsize/100_1957.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/626453/fullsize/100_1950.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/626454/fullsize/100_1959.jpg

Is that for rear heat? Air? Both?
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/626456/fullsize/100_1951.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/626459/fullsize/100_1956.jpg

Does the push pins in the headliner come factory? :doh0715:
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/626460/fullsize/100_1994.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/626462/fullsize/100_1949.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/626463/fullsize/100_1993.jpg

I'll get more pics loaded when I get a chance to take some in the day light. I do have a centurion brochure that deals with taking care of the truck, mostly talks about how to clean the carpet and fabric.

So, what do you think? What do you see? What do I need to keep a look out for? Thoughts, Ideas, criticism, etc.

MoMo

4doorbronko
04-17-2008, 11:50 AM
Nice winch bumper.
Black box: yup, brake controler
Check and see, there should be heater hose and a/c lines running back to the rear unit. I think some were heat only.
Pushpins.... lol. Uber rare Centurion option, but only if they have the Centurion logo engraved on the head of them.
Keep the pic.s coming.
Check out the roof.

SMOOTH
04-17-2008, 02:14 PM
Pushpins.... lol. Uber rare Centurion option, but only if they have the Centurion logo engraved on the head of them.
Keep the pic.s coming.
Check out the roof.

Ahh yes, I forgot the factory direct, hand-engraved push pins. I once bought a 74 CJ-5 that had new carpet installed with 2 inch carpenter nails.

As for the roof, looked good to me, I'm sure I'll see more once I pull the headliner off, but here's what I got:

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/626451/fullsize/100_1986.jpg

That's about where the seam is, isn't it?

Also, very important, I have yet to find a sock, as I understand standard equipement when you buy these used. The PO had this pretty meticulously cleaned, but I'm sure I'll find one, somewhere.

MoMo

PS Anyone have thoughts on the oil pressure, that's my biggest concern right now.

awilson
04-17-2008, 06:06 PM
I like the colors in side

88 Centurion
04-17-2008, 07:29 PM
Ive got the same engine in mine and i dont trust those electric guages that dont even show how many psi just low and high i mean wtf i put a manual guage in mine and usually hold aronud 45 50 psi above idle and aroud 20 at idle

SMOOTH
04-17-2008, 08:02 PM
Ive got the same engine in mine and i dont trust those electric guages that dont even show how many psi just low and high i mean wtf i put a manual guage in mine and usually hold aronud 45 50 psi above idle and aroud 20 at idle

Thanks, that's how I felt about my bronco, I put an aftermarket on it as well, I just didn't know if what my gauge was doing was in anyway normal. I'll get one soon for peace of mind (and a pyro, and tranny temp).

MoMo

88 Centurion
04-17-2008, 08:22 PM
yeah i really want to put all manual guages in mine and redo the whole dash but time and money are two things in short suply aronud here

sheepman
04-18-2008, 02:44 AM
PS Anyone have thoughts on the oil pressure, that's my biggest concern right now. Most likely the switch. When I get home I will post a link for it to read true. On the back left top of the motor behind the air filter is the press switch. Hook a press test gauge up to there to test oil press. Nice Cent! Glad to see you got it.

SMOOTH
04-18-2008, 07:48 AM
Most likely the switch. When I get home I will post a link for it to read true. On the back left top of the motor behind the air filter is the press switch. Hook a press test gauge up to there to test oil press. Nice Cent! Glad to see you got it.

Thanks, I'll do that. I've done it before using the gauge and sending unit from my bronco to another bronco, it's funny watching the pressure of one truck from the cab of my truck to see what it's doing.

Also, I completely forgot another issue I need ya'lls help on. The digital odometer flashes "error 3" with the milage. Anybody know what this means?
Also, does anyone have any experience working with the blinker switch in the steering column on this year-model? My blinkers aren't working, except when the switch is down for highbeams, and then only passanger side works - sometimes. That sounds like the switch contacts need cleaning/adjusting, but didn't know if anyone's been in there before?

Thanks,

MoMo

JohnDeStef
04-18-2008, 08:46 AM
Sorry I haven't had the chance to read through this completely............... but one thing is obvious!................. you're seriously jazzed on getting this rig!!!

Love that enthusiasm 'round here!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I can't wait to catch up on everything you've got goin' on.

Later man!

SMOOTH
04-18-2008, 09:37 AM
Sorry I haven't had the chance to read through this completely............... but one thing is obvious!................. you're seriously jazzed on getting this rig!!!


Brother, you have no idea. I've been teaching anyone who will listen what a Centurion is, I've been working on all kinds of projects, figuring out all the things I want to do to her. Just have to get around those pesky budget and time constraints!:doh0715:

MoMo

SMOOTH
04-18-2008, 08:06 PM
So, I got the blinkers working (nothing like tearing apart your dash on your new truck) that was a lose plug that lost it's retaining clip, a scew fixed that. Removed the shelf thingy with the center console up top, anyone is welcome to it for shipping, but some of the fabric is pulling away. I scraped off the tint on the windshield since I was looking through it half the time and it was messing up my vision. Got the brake lights working, someone crimped some wires and left some exposed. And I got a guy sending me info on my 'error 3' issue.

All is moving along well!

MoMo

sheepman
04-18-2008, 09:21 PM
Just have to get around those pesky budget and time constraints!:doh0715:


:wtf:


That always seems to be my trouble too.

Trucker_Eric
04-19-2008, 07:24 AM
looks like a great prject for yall. i didbnt read throught the whole thig, but it seems like whenever somebody gets a resto project centurion, the roof near the cover is the main source of problems and usually always has to get re-done, but idk if this is true with 2 door ones. great looking centurion you got there, hopefully it will get better.ood luck and keep us updated.

Audra
04-20-2008, 08:38 AM
I read something similar on a bronco board geez a few years ago and one of the members was a ford tech. This sounds a little weird but and that is probably why I remembered the answer but run codes grab them to find what is wrong and then unplug the battery and let the computer reset. I thought it was something incredibly stupid like an ABS code. You could also try resetting the PSOM and see if that does the trick. One of my bronco friends did a great write up on it here:

http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=55005

SMOOTH
04-20-2008, 10:40 AM
The information I got looks like it is scanned copies of a Ford Dealer Repair Manual. It says the 'error 3' code means the 'conversion constant' is off, which is the computer's understanding of the tire size and correctly measuring the speed. Apparently, you have to determine what your 'conversion constant' is by applying your tire outside diameter to a formula, then picking which answer you have from a list of option that appear on the odometer once you follow a couple of steps. Apparently, you can only reset this 6 times before the gauge cluster has to be replaced. So, since I'm going to need new tires in the near future, AND want to increase tire size anyways, I'm just going to hold off until the new tires and then reset my 'conversion constant.'
If anyone wants me to send them what this guy sent me, I'll forward it on, it's an interesting read.

MoMo

P.S. another 'new to diesel' question by a noob. After replacing the fuel filter, is it normal for the truck to take a while to restart? I made sure to only try in spurts, and let the starter cool down between attempts (no more then 20 seconds total, then cool down period) but it probably took 5 or 6 of those tries before the truck would start again, I was getting worried. I assume it's just getting the air from the new filter out and replacing it with fuel, but I'd be lying if I said I wasn't a little worried there for a while. I mean, all I did was replace the fuel filter and air filter and my truck wouldn't start? Almost needed a change of underwear to go with my new parts!

4doorbronko
04-20-2008, 11:07 AM
Once you have the readout issues fixed, I would suggest looking into this:
TruSpeed calibrator (http://www.superlift.com/accessories/truspeed.asp)
There are several different ones out there. I put the Superlift unit in my '95.
The problem I have run into with the resetting of the dash pod is it isn't that accurate.
With the external signal calibrator, you can fine tune it much closer to get a completly accurate speed and odometer reading.
I tuned mine using my laptop GPS map program speed readout. Handheld GPS's can to the same.
The Superlift allows you to set 2 different tire sizes, I have mine set for the 39.5 IROKS I was running as well as the 36" IROKS I have on it now. Just a matter of flipping the switch to change between the two.
The hard start after the filter change was probably due to purging the air from the filter/bowl. Did you drain the filter housing? I think topping off the filter housing with fuel before you close it up will decrease your cranking time before start.

sheepman
04-20-2008, 11:20 AM
P.S. another 'new to diesel' question by a noob. After replacing the fuel filter, is it normal for the truck to take a while to restart? I made sure to only try in spurts, and let the starter cool down between attempts (no more then 20 seconds total, then cool down period) but it probably took 5 or 6 of those tries before the truck would start again, I was getting worried. I assume it's just getting the air from the new filter out and replacing it with fuel, but I'd be lying if I said I wasn't a little worried there for a while. I mean, all I did was replace the fuel filter and air filter and my truck wouldn't start? Almost needed a change of underwear to go with my new parts!

Did you fill your fuel filter up with fuel before putting it back on? Anytime you let air into the fuel system it will have a hard time starting. There is a schrader valve on top of the fuel filter. If you have someone hold that own only turning the engine over after a fuel filter charge it help get the air out faster.:pke:

sheepman
04-20-2008, 11:27 AM
I read something similar on a bronco board geez a few years ago and one of the members was a ford tech. This sounds a little weird but and that is probably why I remembered the answer but run codes grab them to find what is wrong and then unplug the battery and let the computer reset. I thought it was something incredibly stupid like an ABS code. You could also try resetting the PSOM and see if that does the trick. One of my bronco friends did a great write up on it here:

http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=55005

Thats a great write up!

Better then what I am going to post. Do to the fact they added photos and such.

"First, you'll need to know the actual height of the tires, not the
nominal height of 35" that's printed on the sidewall. To get that,
make a mark on the edge of the tire at the ground, and mark the ground
directly under the mark. Now, roll the truck far enough for the tire
to have made three revolutions. When your mark on the tire is at the
very bottom, near the ground, mark the ground again, and measure the
distance between the two marks on the ground. Divide that distance by
three, since there were three revolutions of the tire, then divide
that number, (which is the circumference of your tire,) by 3.14. The
answer you have is the true height of your tire. Write that number
down, because you'll need it for the next step. Divide 30282 by your
actual height. If your true height is 34", the math goes something
like this: 30282/34=891. That would be your speedometer calibration
code."

"To set the calibration, ground the single wire connector under the
glove box it says PSOM (Programable Speedometer Opdometer Module).
"Yes there is only one and it has a spade type plug on the end". I
used a wire with clips on both ends to ground the plug to a screw
under the dash or try a test light and use the clip end to the PSOM
and the other jam in a dooe hinge. Now look at your speedometer on the
face of your dash while sitting in the drivers seat and there should
be a "reset" button and a "select" button. While holding the reset
button in on the trip meter, turn the ignition to 'on' while the wire
is still grounded. Let go of the reset button. The speedometer display
will sweep once and will show a code of some kind then push in again
the "reset" button and the existing code will be displayed with
RECAL?, mine said 976 RECAL? Now you enter your new code you came up
with by dividing the rolling measurement by PI or 3.14 by pushing the
"select" button until it gets to the new calibration code number. You
may have to push "select" a whole bunch of times until you get to your
code. If you turn off the key at this point the original code will not
be changed or any of the 6 lives will not be used. To store your new
code press "Reset". Turn off the key. Unplug the ground wire."

JKernan11
04-20-2008, 11:28 AM
Did you fill your fuel filter up with fuel before putting it back on? Anytime you let air into the fuel system it will have a hard time starting. There is a schrader valve on top of the fuel filter. If you have someone hold that own only turning the engine over after a fuel filter charge it help get the air out faster.:pke:

Is there as big of a problem changing the filter on a PSD? New to diesel too.

Kasprzak
04-20-2008, 01:13 PM
Powerstrokes seem to purge pretty quickly,.....unless however you unplug the injection pump:down: without realizing it and have the whole top end of the motor off ready for a fuel pump replacement. Ford did place the injector pump harness right by the drain valve, so be careful the first time you drain your water.

sheepman
04-23-2008, 10:01 AM
Is there as big of a problem changing the filter on a PSD? New to diesel too. There not hard you just need to remember to add fuel to the filter before closeing the filter back up.

SMOOTH
06-02-2008, 06:59 AM
So, I figured now was a good time to add all that I've done to the truck since I bought it.
First, I hunted down 6 aftermarket switches to find out what they go to, two were not wired to anything, one was for my flood lights, but wasn't wired to them, one is for the rear cargo light, one is the control for the built in radar detector (also wasn't wired up), and one turned off and on the remote start (maybe a PO kept accidentally hitting that button on the fob?)
Due to a preexisting hole in the dash, I went ahead and put in a mechanical oil pressure gauge I had laying around, it's not great, but will be easy to swap with a new one should I ever get the urge.
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/628876/fullsize/100_2025.jpg

I got new tires for the truck, they are procomp 315/75r16 all-terrains'
before:
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/640194/fullsize/100_2150.jpg
after:
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/640198/fullsize/100_2153.jpg

So, getting the tires done, the mechanic told me my passanger side lower ball joint and tie rod were shot, as well as my rear shocks, so I spent my weekend replacing those. Luckly for me, I had gotten my tires from 4 Wheel parts on one of their, buy 3 get one free deals, and before it ran out Saturday, I went ahead and ordered Procomp 9000 shocks under the same deal. I now have a new found respect for anyone who has replaced ball joints, that was not fun. Once I pulled off the passanger tire, I noticed this:
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/641508/fullsize/100_2168.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/641509/fullsize/100_2169.jpg
I don't think that qualifies as a slotted rotor...

I also noticed the seals on the caliper pistons were gone and there was almost no brake pads left. So, I bought a new rotor, new pads, and a caliper rebuild kit. Never again will I be so foolish to think that I can rebuild a caliper, it's just not worth the hassle. So, after spending the better part of Saturday afternoon and Sunday morning fussing with that, I finally broke down and bought new calipers, I say calipers plural because when I went to replace my shocks, I noticed I had plenty of pad left on the driver's side, and since my truck pulled hard to the right when I braked, I surmized that my driver's side caliper was likely sticking, so they both were replaced. So, in went the one new rotor, two new calipers, four new pads, upper and lower ball joints on the passanger side, and the passanger side tie rod. The end result looked like this:
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/641501/fullsize/100_2156.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/641502/fullsize/100_2157.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/641503/fullsize/100_2158.jpg

After I was done with that, I checked and topped off my diffs and transfer case, and then went to work on the rear door locks. Neither have worked, in fact, they were stuck in the unlock position (I guess that's better then the alternative) and the power locks were not working. So, I went in, pulled out the old power locks, which were done, pulled the power locks from my parts bronco, and installed them. I ended up having to install them an inch higher then the factory hole as they wouldn't work mounted there, but with some persuasion, a lot of liquid wrench, I got them working, so I can now completely lock my truck. Other then that, I also installed a new vacuum pump belt as the old one was ready to go, and put in new bulbs in the door panels. It was a very busy weekend.

That's it for now, we'll see what this weekend brings....

MoMo

JKernan11
06-02-2008, 03:06 PM
Sounds like a very productive weekend. I have 4 kids and a 50-60 hour a week job. I hardly ever have time to even drive my truck. Great job!

Kasprzak
06-02-2008, 03:49 PM
its comming right along. I agree, the kids take up a lot of time, I envy those all day work days on the trucks. I miss them so.:paper:

4doorbronko
06-02-2008, 07:50 PM
its comming right along. I agree, the kids take up a lot of time, I envy those all day work days on the trucks. I miss them so.:paper:

http://www.frommyexperience.com/wp-content/uploads/2007/09/duct-tape-baby.gif


:shrug

Slow down Smooth, youre going to make the rest of us look bad getting all that work done........ nice job. :xyxthumbs:

JKernan11
06-02-2008, 07:57 PM
http://www.frommyexperience.com/wp-content/uploads/2007/09/duct-tape-baby.gif


:shrug

Slow down Smooth, youre going to make the rest of us look bad getting all that work done........ nice job. :xyxthumbs:

No, when he gets done with his I'm going to lend him mine so he can work on it for me:biggthumpup: I'll even pay for the parts.:pke:

SMOOTH
06-03-2008, 10:01 AM
Thanks guys, honestly, with the Kentucky trip, a trip to Va, and my wife using it for a Bachelorette party caravan to the beach, I just need to make sure it is in good working order, that's my main motivation. I even had to brake out the (*bows head and cries*) credit card :deal :( to get this done, but I want it functional right now. Making it pretty, that will be more time consuming and will wait on the funds, plus my project bronco is getting put on the back burner and giving me dirty looks.

MoMo