53 gallon custom fuel tank

[Traveler]

I have started my Big Fuel tank project.
Quick how many cubic inches in a gallon??
I think it is 231, but could not find a conversion chart.
I dropped the old tank.
The original tank was 33 gallons.
I took measurements, based on a basic rectangular tank that would fit up in the hole.
The only problem with a tank that is a perfect rectangle is with the powerstroke diesel, the exhaust is so big that it may need to be moved, or re-routed, also it helps to have a small sump to pull fuel out of, or you cannot use as many gallons before it starts sucking air.
With just some quick measurements, I got 24" front to back, 17" deep, and 32" wide.
The width is limited by the reciever hitch.
The length (front to back) is limited by two crossemeber, which the front one could be moved.
The height I chose a dimension that is just a little bit lower than the reciever hitch at 17" It hangs less than an inch below. With the ground clearence of the C350 I cannot see where that would ever be a problem for me.
Funny part is I added up those dimensions and if 231 is correct it comes out to 56 gallon. Weird huh?

I took some additional measurements assuming I would modify or remove the reciever hitch.
That tank would measure, 25" long, by 34" wide, by 16" deep.
That comes up to 59 gallons. Not enough gain to screw around modifying the hitch.

I have not decided on how many baffles, or to sump, or not, or If I will use the original float, and pick up assembly.
one thing I will do is modify the filler neck and vent so I can fill the thing with a big truck nozzle at full bore. If you have a diesel you will notice a big down fall in that area, very slow filling.
I will also reinstall the original rollover protection valve.
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/765238/fullsize/post186769dcp_0028.jpg

[Traveler]

I decided upon the 56 gallon. Dimensions will be 24x32x 17" deep. I am going to put two baffles in like a cross when looking at it from the top.
that will depend on what type of aftermarket float/sending unit I can find.
The OHM range on the Factory float is 15 at empty to 162 at full.
I will either have to modify my exhaust, or trim the corner of tank to clear.
I priced the metal for the tank. To have the bottom sheared and broke like a u shape and the two sides and top seperate. The metal should cost around $90. The aftermarket float and some welding and I will be there.
The slope at the back of the truck is enough I will not have to add a sump for fuel pick up, unless extremely overloaded the tank will tip slightly forward.
I am losing the straps, and welding an angle on the front and back of the tank to fasten it to the crossmembers with bolts.

Haven't decided to add a hand hole on top or not, just another place to leak, but man if you ever had to get back in there it would be handy.

[Traveler]

I am finally getting back on this project, thought i would drop a couple pics. First running change was making it 25" long instead of 24" that upped my gallons to 59.
The pic shows the raw material. it's all there top, sides, and baffles.
Laying on the top is a sending unit I got from Summit racing. It will handle the tank depth and it has the OHM range required to make the factory ford gauge work.
At the bottom of the pic you can see one of the baffles, I took them to a shear and trimmed the corners off, that is all I did to allow transfer of fuel between sides.

My Whole thought during this project is to keep it simple, cheap and durable. The majority of the work can be done with a Sawzall, and a wire welder.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/765236/fullsize/post174545dcp_0002.jpg

http://www.fourdoorbronco.com/temp/iB_html/uploads/post-1-74545-DCP_0002.JPG

[Traveler]

Next picture is the tank as it will be without the top. I set the sending unit in there to show you the location. The tank is just lightly tacked together, so I can check fit.


The lower right corner of the picture is where my pickup tube will go, Since it is diesel I don't need an electric fuel pump in there, but I will use the factory strainger assembly. I went to napa and bought some fuel line "repair" fittings. I am going to pull fuel out the side, and return in the top.


http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/765237/fullsize/post175062dcp_0004.jpg

[Traveler]

In the picture you can see the tank hanging down 1.5" below the end of my reciver hitch. I could have made the tank smaller and left the hitch alone, but I wanted max gallons, so I am going to build my own hitch, it will hang down lower, and have a cross strap between the side plates, (to catch the tank if it works loose, or a bolt breaks)
The new hitch will be low enough that if I backed up over a rock or volkswagon it will protect the tank. It is still over exposed for offroading, but hey it's a little heavy for that anyway.
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/765240/fullsize/post192474dcp_0020.jpg

[Traveler]

This picture just puts into perspective the "notch" I made for my exhaust. My exhaust is currently 3.5" If I have time it will be 5" before summer.
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/765241/fullsize/post192908dcp_0021.jpg

[Traveler]

This shows the pickup tube. I used the factory "Foot" with the strainer screen, and pulse dampner.


http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/765242/fullsize/post193092dcp_0035.jpg

[Traveler]

End shot of the tank, no filler neck, or vent in it yet.
I notched the back of the tank, not originally planned, but I wanted to keep as much ground clearence as I could.
With the notch there it allowed me to raise the tank farther up. It clears the rear most crossmember and body mounts.
There are a couple benefits to doing this, it leans the tank farther foward, keeping fuel up front where my pickup tube is, also I don't have to move any wiring that previously would have gotten pinched by the close quarters.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/765243/fullsize/post193446dcp_0039.jpg

[Traveler]

This shot is of my exhaust "notch", it also shows my mounting.
I added an angle to the front and back, this will let me bolt the tank up to the crossmembers that held the old tank.
I will be adding some gussets to keep the angle from bending under the weight, but I post of shot of those later.
With the "notching" I have done, I have lost just over 3.5 gallons, so now I am back down to 55.5 gallons. Bummer! http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/765244/fullsize/post193802dcp_0037.jpg

[Traveler]

This shows the man hole on top, not bolted down yet, It doesn't show the filler or vent connections. they are in, so now I am pressure testing, after that I cut in the float, and roll over protection valve.
Then off to the paint shop.


http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/765245/fullsize/post194166dcp_0036.jpg

[Traveler]

You can see the top the tank sticking just above the frame rail. Clear at the back is the cross member I wanted to clear. It is a crossmember on the body no the frame.
In the center of the picture is actually where the filler, and vent connection will go.
You can tell it is just a pre fit, the top is just tacked on.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/765246/fullsize/post195841dcp_0027.jpg

[Traveler]

This photo shows me pressure testing. I tested it to 6psi, after airing it up, I took a bottle of soapy water and sprayed everything down. Yes I did have to go and reweld a couple spots.
Look at the filler hose, right to the right is the vent that I will connect to the filler neck. The white line drawn on the top is where the baffle runs down the center of the tank. By putting the filler on one side and the vent on the other I don't have to worry about fuel splashing while filling.
I used an exhaust elbow cut, and welded to the top to connect the filler hose to.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/765223/fullsize/post110472dcp_0001.jpg

[Traveler]

This pick shows the mounting. I wanted to point out the gussets I added in particular. I used the angle welded on the front and back as my mounting, and the gussets hold the angle from bending out of shape. There is plenty of strength in this mounting, but there is a problem.
There shouldn't be much movement of the tank at all, but there will be some, and over time it will get worse, that is why companies use straps, or skid plates (like on broncos I guess) to hold the tanks in.
Picture bending a piece of wire, or a tin can, or a spoon back and forth, back and forth, ect. until it breaks. That is what we call tin canning. This actually happens on any type of tank including the big tankers, semis pull down the road.
To prevent this, the center gusset is welded right were the baffle is. I marked the baffle with a white line. The gusset is welded to the shell, the shell is welded to the baffle. It cannot move, when it flexes it is trying to push or pull on the baffle and it can't. This prevents the tin can effect.
You have to make sure that it is lined up perfectly with the baffle, if it is off to the side just a tad it will act like a pair of scissors, and is worse than nothing at all.
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/765224/fullsize/post111917dcp_0005.jpg

[Traveler]

This is a roll over protection valve, all tanks have one. It also is a tank vent. Not required, but it is easy for me to install, so I put it back in.
If you do a Filler neck mod. (coming in another write up) on a factory tank, this is one part you will throw away.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/765225/fullsize/post112505dcp_0016.jpg

[Traveler]

Here is calibartion of the fuel gauge. I have it hooked to the truck. I bent the float rod to get it to read empty, and full where I wanted it.
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/765226/fullsize/post112991dcp_0024.jpg

[Traveler]

Here is the completed tank, painted and ready to install.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/765227/fullsize/post113161dcp_0029.jpg

[Traveler]

Here's my boy touching up the paint on the bottom of the tank.
It is done. I put in 5 gallons of fuel. It runs fine off of that.
I drove it to town and topped it off with another 48 gallons.
That gives me a total capacity of 53 gallons. Either my calculations were off a little, or I was unable to get it full because the angle I am on. Doesn't matter. I know where 5 gallons left is on the gauge, and that the truck will run fine on that.
So if I have 48 useable gallons that gives me a refuel range of 720 miles on a bad day, or 912 on a good day.(without a trailer)
I will get a pic. up after I get my reciever hitch back in. I custom made one, but want to leave it out for a couple weeks so I can watch my mounting and recheck bolts.
When I got home from my test drive I noticed a fuel drip. I about cryed thinking I would have to drop the tank again. I was ready to give up and put the old one back in, upon further investigation I found the tank vent/ roll over valve had drooled a little and covered the top of the tank, so now I am happy again. I remounted the hose up where it should be and all is fine now.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/765228/fullsize/post113848dcp_0034.jpg

[Traveler]

$81.00 from completely dry. Diesel here is $1.53

The whole set up cost breaks down like this.
Metal (Sheared and broke) $72.08
Sending unit $29
Exhaust elbow (filler neck) $3.95
Fittings and Hose for Vent $7.99
Welder wire, gas, and paint $25.00
Fuel line fittings $$13.95
Total $151.97

Sure filling up is expensive, but not having to stop in Nebraska (ever) is well worth it.

[Traveler]

I had to use the hitch this weekend, so I don't have it done, but thought I would throw a pic up.
I used the previous hitch hangers, and "extended" them.
They now hang down below my fuel tank. I am going to make a skid plate that will bolt up to the bottom of the hangers.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/765234/fullsize/post174097dcp_0025.jpg

[Traveler]

The hitch is not any lower than it was, but it does stick out a little farther.

I ran into a snag. Not sure if all pumps do this, but I filled up in Michigan this weekend. Got 653 miles on before the first refill, and no it wasn't empty, it was about 1/8 tank or so left.
I use a pay at pump station. Put my card in and started pumping. It stopped at $50. I then had to shut the pump off, restart it, and finish filling the other $13 or whatever it was.

When I built the tank I never thought about pay at pumps having a $50 per transaction limit. That will be a pain. I will just have to stay away from them. How stupid is that.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/765235/fullsize/post174525dcp_0027.jpg

[Audra]

Quote[/b] ]Sure filling up is expensive, but not having to stop in Nebraska (ever) is well worth it.


Hey! ?http://www.fourdoorbronco.com/temp/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/down.gif ?It's not that bad out here ?

[Sparkydm]

This is an old tech write up but, I find it fascinating.
I'd be willing to lose my spare tire placement to gain
this amount of fuel capacity. How has the tank worked
out and have you tested it to verify useable capacity?
Any followup after the install would be appreciated.
Thank you.

Oops! I thought I had read all of the posts before
putting this one up. Apparently not. Your final pictures
and information are there to see. I'm used to posting on
boards but, this one is a little different. I'll just have
to get used to it though. Thanks again whoever sent
me the last email and got my account straightened
out. http://www.fourdoorbronco.com/temp/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif

[adrianspeeder]

Whats that cost to fill up now?

1.53 for diesel, hahahahah what an old thread http://www.fourdoorbronco.com/temp/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif http://www.fourdoorbronco.com/temp/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/sad.gif

Adrianspeeder

[Traveler]

usually a comfortable fill up is 40 some gallons, so figure 43 gallons. today $2.75 a gallon. $118. Not too bad yet. Figuring that is atleast 550 miles.

Tank has been perfect. I tend to think I want a bigger one, but crap think about it. as it is, that is 440 pounds back there.

Smack dead on E should be 5 gallons left. It rarely gets run that far, but figure 45 average usable gallons. Compared to what on a 33 gallon tank? 25? 28 maybe? before you get the oh crap I need a fuel stop feeling.

[Sparkydm]

Do you think it would much
more difficult to fab up a mid
frame tank to replace the front
one? I called TFI and they said
there's room but, they made so
few of my CC SB body style
trucks it wasn't worth it to
go through all of the
certifications. I know it's not a
4 door bronco but, it's a poor
man's version! http://www.fourdoorbronco.com/temp/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif

[Traveler]

A mid ship tank would be easy. There is lots of clearance to work with there.
If you look at the ones for the Dodge trucks from transferflow they didn't change much, they just hang down below the frame a lot farther.

I looked at it, decided I didn't need it, I don't have the second filler door, so I would also have to add that. It would be a little more work for me.

It would be pretty easy to crawl under there with a tape measure and figure out how big of a box you dare add. Take the dimensions and we can calculate how many gallons you could get. From there you can decide with it is worth it.

For those of use with the C350's there is no second tank, so easy to say yes it is worth it. If you already have a tank, and find out with your measurements you can only gain 5 gallons it wouldn't be worth the time.

But the mid tank would be very easy, no funny mounts to work around.

[Sparkydm]

I'm in the middle of replacing my
fuel pump now but, I'll take a
look at it later. Thanks!

[Atmus]

I've read through this a couple times, and I am hoping I didn't just miss it, but how thick/what gauge is the metal you made the tank out of?

[Traveler]

Didn't miss it at all. Looks like I didn't post it.

I am certain it is 1/8" material. It was easy to come by, anything thinner and I would of had to order it and I was concerned about strength the way I mounted it.
Using a thinner gauge would be fine, but you will have to cradle it or use straps again.

[JohnDeStef]

$81.00 from completely dry. Diesel here is $1.53

The whole set up cost breaks down like this.
Metal (Sheared and broke) $72.08
Sending unit $29
Exhaust elbow (filler neck) $3.95
Fittings and Hose for Vent $7.99
Welder wire, gas, and paint $25.00
Fuel line fittings $$13.95
Total $151.97

Sure filling up is expensive, but not having to stop in Nebraska (ever) is well worth it.

AWESOME addition Erik. I missed this one. Thanks for digging it up Atmus!!!

...so much for $1.53/gallon diesel... :puke:

Didn't diesel used to be a waste by-product from the production of gasoline? Now it's more expensive (here) than 93 premium.

[4doorbronko]

Didn't diesel used to be a waste by-product from the production of gasoline? .

Still is. As soon as the American consumer latched on to the fact that Diesel was cheaper and started buying more diesel vehicles the Fat Cats at the oil companies started cashing in.*

$3.49 gal. here last time I was in town.



*Personnal opinion

[JohnDeStef]

Still is. As soon as the American consumer latched on to the fact that Diesel was cheaper and started buying more diesel vehicles the Fat Cats at the oil companies started cashing in.*

$3.49 gal. here last time I was in town.



*Personnal opinion

Well the over reaching, global warming hyped government mandated new sulfur guidelines, which did throw the price higher than premium. Couple years ago, pre regulations, it was cheaper than all fuels.

:BangHead:

[Atmus]

Still is. As soon as the American consumer latched on to the fact that Diesel was cheaper and started buying more diesel vehicles the Fat Cats at the oil companies started cashing in.*

$3.49 gal. here last time I was in town.



*Personnal opinion

Didn't help that diesels went from loud, obnoxious, and slow to loud, obnoxious, and bitchenfast. Well, sortof, anyway.

[devildog]

wait a minute, isn't sulfur an additive to diesel like lead was for gasoline? but once they stop putting it in it gets more expensive?
i agree with 4doorbronko

[JohnDeStef]

Diesel is a refined product just like gasoline. Full bore locomotive diesel is loaded with sulfur. It has gone through little refining.

The sulfur specs on diesel are being tightened, and the increased processing costs will probably raise the prices another 5 - 15 cents a gallon.

Because of their increased fuel economy, the demand for diesel vehicles has increased faster than the demand for gasoline vehicles, but the supply of diesel fuel has not increased (it may have decreased) so demand/supply will drive the price up. It is more difficult for U.S. refineries to increase diesel output than to increase gasoline output.

The United States does not have enough refinery capacity, (we haven't built a refinery in over 30 years!), so we import part of our refined fuel. Our population, and demand for all fuels has grown, but our infracture has not followed. In addition the damage to refineries by recent storms increased the amount we need to import. Diesels are more popular overseas so it is hard enough to find diesel fuel to import.

The diesel fuel percentage from crude is also used to produce heating fuel. In normal years, refineries can not produce heating fuel as fast as it is used in the winter so they need to start stockpiling heating fuel in the fall by diverting diesel stocks. With refineries down this fall and winter, stockpiles were not built up soon enough so more diesel capacity is now being diverted to heating oil.

Add it all up.......... higher prices.

It's not going to get any better. Currently only highway diesel is mandated at 15ppm (parts per million) sulfur; which is named ULSD - ultra low sulfur diesel. Excluded is marine, off road, some highway, and locomotive.

By 2014, ALL diesel is mandated to be at 15ppm.

Yikes.

"In a memo dated 11/30/07, EPA reminded the petroleum industry of regulations on sulfur and the winter blending of kerosene and diesel.

Under regulations previously adopted by EPA, the petroleum refining industry met a June 2006 deadline to comply with stringent limitations on the sulfur content of highway diesel fuel. By this date, most refiners had to meet a 15 parts per million (ppm) sulfur limit for at least 80% of their highway diesel fuel production, with a 500 ppm (low sulfur diesel or LSD) cap on the remaining 20%. Further in June 2007, refiners must meet a 500 ppm sulfur cap on all off-road diesel produced with a 2010 deadline for all highway and some off-road diesel to be at the 15 ppm ULSD level. (Locomotive and marine diesel would remain at the 500 ppm sulfur cap in 2010.) There are pump label requirements effective 6/1/06 (highway rule) and 6/1/07 (nonroad rule).

The stringent ULSD regulations for highway use, coupled with the 500 ppm sulfur cap on non-road use just one year later, will severely test the ability of refiners to produce sufficient quantities of diesel fuel at these required ultra-low limits. Compounding the problem is the uncertainty surrounding potential downgrading of the product after it leaves the refinery and is transferred and stored multiple times throughout the nation’s complex fuel distribution system. These activities may result in noncompliant product by ULSD standards."

Get more info here: (http://www.npradc.org/issues/fuels/diesel_sulfur.cfm)

[devildog]

i stand corrected...
:notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy:

[4doorbronko]

If you think diesel is bad, bio fuel, the "saving grace" that was supposed to be cheaper...... is even more.
Only 1 bio fuel refinery was built to utilize anything other than corn.
sugar cane takes the least amount of "work" to..... uh..... work.
Just look at South american countries, they grow the hell outta 'cane, refine it down and walla!

[Atmus]

It gets better, since the government subsidieses corn farms, AND corn based ethanol, everyone is paying for 'bio-fuel', regardless of if they use it or not.

[JohnDeStef]

It gets better, since the government subsidieses corn farms, AND corn based ethanol, everyone is paying for 'bio-fuel', regardless of if they use it or not.

:beer

[4doorbronko]

It gets better, since the government subsidieses corn farms, AND corn based ethanol, everyone is paying for 'bio-fuel', regardless of if they use it or not.


:beer

Even better, we've been paying farmers for so long NOT to grow corn. :whiteflag

[JKernan11]

I bet traveler didn't think building a fuel tank was going to get him a class in oil refinery, global warming and a speech about how "The Man" is keeping us down. I have been thinking about a diesel truck that I can go Veggie with. Don't know if that's the way to go now.

[4doorbronko]

We're being oppressed by "The Man"..... Homey don't play dat.


http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m220/4drbronko/Homey20the20Clown.png

[Traveler]

You guys are talking about ethanol and bio diesel, but you haven't covered soy diesel yet, that is where I am waiting to jump in.

Soy diesel is a very good alternative, but do you realize that methanol and heptane is required in the process? On top of that, the earth is not capable of producing enough of those two products in order to allow us to refine all of the soy diesel we need to eliminate oil.

Technology is still advancing, they need to find better ways to refine these fuels. When they do we may very well see lower prices at the pumps again.

[Atmus]

Don't forget algae diesel. Admittedly I haven't done too much research on it, but some other biofuel nerds I talk to keep saying that it is progressing pretty well, and we still have some big ole seas out there ;)

[bob_95_psd]

Does anybody have any experience with this product (http://www.dieselsecret.com)? It sounds good.

[JoeBob1901]

Does anybody have any experience with this product (http://www.dieselsecret.com)? It sounds good.

IIRC, it's snakeoil....

[Atmus]

IIRC, it's snakeoil....

Correction, fuel system destroying, engine killing snake oil.

[bob_95_psd]

Correction, fuel system destroying, engine killing snake oil.

Is that response from personal experience?

[Atmus]

Fortunately no. Someone from thedieselstop had their 'secret additives' analyzed a few years ago, and from what I remembered it was horrible crap that doesn't belong in any diesel I'll ever own. I do remember gasoline and naptha though. A few newly registered dieselstop guys had their first topic involve "My engine is blown" and "Dieselsecret for the last 500 miles" as well.

From dieselsecret's own site:
"Warranty Voiding?

Yes, by definition, anything from Slick 50 to STP added to your engine can be justification for voiding of your warranty if the manufacturer desires. The issue is, of course, whether you tell them what you put in your engine."

Yeah, Okay. I'm sure the guys pulling the $6000+ engine for a living won't wonder why an engine under waranty stopped working and won't do any investigation, and it won't be completely obvious that someone put gasoline and naptha through a high-pressure injection system.

That they admit that they haven't done any actual scientific studies, don't have a place for you to go to to speak to someone in person, and won't give you any verifyable testimonials speaks highly of their product as well.

Biodiesel isn't THAT hard to make, nor is modifying for vegetable oil. Even if dieselsecret worked as advertised, it wouldn't be orth the extra effort over even biodiesel, let alone straight vegetable oil.

Finally, Just because it explodes when you provoke it, doesn't mean your engine will run on it for long.

edit: Seriously, alternative homebrewed fuels are hard to keep legitimate as it is, this doesn't help. Sorry for the ranting.

[JoeBob1901]

Just FYI gasoline in small quantities and naptha (which can be beneficial) won't hut much in any small quantities...

[Atmus]

Gasoline will erode and eventually cause catastrophic injector failure, naptha (I believe) will soften fuel lines and seals in older engines. There were some other chemicals involved that I really wish I could recall, xylene or something?.

Dieselsecret claims you just add their stuff to the vegetable oil, filter it, and put it in your tank. No heating, agitation, or testing afterwards. Maybe in perfect conditions it works fine, but in perfect conditions my truck gets 27mpg, Centurion roofs never need work, and Irish girls in plaid skirts bring me pizza and find garlic breath attractive.

[JoeBob1901]

little background:

http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/9751014871/m/8811073412

Life may be a bit more perfect than you think ;)

Edit:also, read the ingredients on the back of most ant-gel/lubricating type additives for diesels. The ford one i know for sure lists naptha, most are naptha, kerosene, etc, etc, etc.

[Atmus]

Well I certainly don't wish harm on any of the engines people put dieselsecret through, but it will never go through mine, and I'll never buy a vehicle that's been run on it without planning on replacing the engine.

[Traveler]

The concentration is the key. have you guys heard of adding acetone? Or 2 cycle oil?
Acetone was pretty popular for a while, what they found was it was eating the fill tube hose into the tank, but they claim to see advantages to fuel mileage.
Toluol, was another with the same results. It works, but needs to be blended before being dumped into the tank.
Most of the additives that I have had offered to me for fleet use were removed from the market within 6 months to a year afterwards. For reasons like corrosion, or other problems it created. I am sure the stuff works in their lab, but not in the real world always.

[JoeBob1901]

MSDS info here:

http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/419605551/m/4511077101

[ColLonewolf]

I have researched this product for some time. I have all the filter/equipment ready and have read all the threads from the different Biodiesel and WVO sites and have deduced the following. The Diesel Secret additive is not needed in any way so save your money. The basic design of the filter setup is a good start but there needs to be additional filtering before the oil goes into the initial tank. The "trash can" should be a quality 55 gal drum and you never cut a hole in the side. Run your inlet pipe and your outlet pipe right in through the top of the drum. Remember FILTER, FILTER, FILTER, FILTER. Water is the enemy as is the milky crud in the bottom of the restaurant storage containers. Mix well in the drum before you start the house filtration process. Mixing and filtering should be done as soon as possible as water in the oil with food scraps will cause the oil to rot and form bacteria so let the oil settle after you filter and not before. Also this process does not appear to be recommended for Direct Inject diesels. I have been prepared to use this system for about a year now and have not been able to get the process going as Uncle Sam has need of my services yet again overseas for a six month stint but I will be fully operational as soon as I get back. Remember this is a blending process to thin the oil to operational levels rather than using a chemical process to separate the fatty acids. This is not Bio-diesel. Also if your vehicle has a number of miles on it already be prepare to change a few fuel filters initially as the VO removes any deposits and gunk from your fuel system. This could be alleviated if you run a good fuel system cleaner before you start. Believe in the Diesel Secret process but not the product. Hope this helps.

[Atmus]

I find boiling then filtering works pretty well. Removes the water, kills anything growing that's too small for the filter, and hot oil mixes with diesel a lot easier than cold.

[Blanco]

I know this is an old thread ...... :rolleyes:
But the Pic's are gone.. :(

[Traveler]

The pics are fixed finally.
Had to really dig for them.

[Chase Schule]

wow nice monster gas tank haha (beast)

[archangel]

And as far as BioDiesel, you can just run straight Veggie oil if it's preheated.

There are also kits out there from Europe that have preheated injectors, fuel lines, filters and tanks, so you can run straight Veggie oil in the winter and start from stone cold as well.

It's not cheap, but does work well and solves the issue of the additional chemicals and effort needed to process BioDiesel.

The "wait to start" time fist time on a cold morning is a little longer though not enough to be a serious pain.